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Old 06-23-2014, 08:30 PM   #1126
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it understeers as soon as i enter the turn and get nothing when i go on power to try to exit, 1.5 camber front and rear, my suspension geometry and set up is the same as Andrew Cartwright's setup on the AE site. Its a new car so all the bearings are good and everything moves freely and the cars weight just makes it over roar specs.

i tried a 96 spur with a 3.6 FDR and it was still very slow on the back straight, i even had the top racer at my local track try out my car to see what he thought about it and even he was shocked at how slow it was. im running the reedy sonic mach 2 17.5

i dont believe there is air in my shocks, there is very, VERY minimal rebound in all 4 shocks and their all even. however in order for me to obtain even ride height from left to right, one shock needs to be pre loaded ALOT more then the other (ie ill need to spin one shock 20 times and the other shock 10 times). i did recently purchase the spec-r shock eyelits and spring retainers and im also going to try yokomo springs
Andrews setup is for high grip carpet and it's fantastic for just that...but asphalt, I can see why you're all over the place in the turns. The speed thing is a whole nother issue. Make sure you're belts are loose as well. I've noticed the belts from associated vary a little. Some are tighter than others for some reason. I run about a 3.6 FDR and set the timing at about 38-40 (Mach 2 as well) depending on the temps coming off, and speed is fine. But I've found around 3.7 is where my motor likes to be.

Edit: Along with the belts, make sure your gear mesh isn't too tight. You shouldn't hear too much "whine" if you spin the wheels. Whine = drag and a hot motor.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:39 PM   #1127
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GizmoTLR,

You've got to find out where that preload mismatch/tweak is coming from. Are you sure all the shims are symmetrical side-to-side, shocks are the same length, chassis is tweak free

Mach 2 try ~30 endbell timing, 3.5.

I'm hoping to make it out to he SEVA race at Debbie's.


EDIT: I didn't see Mike's FDR/timing recommendation. You may want to try that. I haven't been running much 17.5 lately.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:35 AM   #1128
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I am the only one at my track with a tc6.2 and i need some help.
I know asking the forums is a long shot because no one can actually see how my car is reacting, but like i said i am the only person at my track with a TC6.2. Any help at all would be great.
Hello Gizmo,

you can try my 17.5t blinky setup. I worked a long time on it. It turns very good, is stable even driving curbs, has no understeer going in the corner. I just love it!
For your situation you should ignore my FDR (rules!), also you can ignore the rear bump steering, as it will not make such a difference

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Old 06-24-2014, 09:09 AM   #1129
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Does the suspension parts from TC6 fit the TC5 such as arms, steering hubs and uprights? Thanks for any help
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:55 AM   #1130
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You racing at Debbies right? Let me run it. I'll even let you borrow a motor if you need to see if that's the problem.
yes i do race at debbies. fred drove my car and hes the one that been letting me use hit setup station and trying to help me with it. fred has been a HUGE help so far, with out him my car would be even worse off then it is now. ill be out there again saturday and ill let you drive it and see how it feels, and sorry about last weekend about buying ur spare car, i was going to get it for my buddy to get him into the hobby but he went to CO's mast and got put on restriction

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GizmoTLR,
I'm hoping to make it out to he SEVA race at Debbie's.
please come out, im tired of being the only guy with an associated car lol

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Hello Gizmo,

you can try my 17.5t blinky setup. I worked a long time on it. It turns very good, is stable even driving curbs, has no understeer going in the corner. I just love it!
For your situation you should ignore my FDR (rules!), also you can ignore the rear bump steering, as it will not make such a difference

thx for the pdf, i kno andrews setup is for carpet but he has the only 6.2 17.5t setup i could go off of... i also noticed your running 2000cst in your diff, thats not too thick? i tried 1000cst and even that felt like the rear end couldnt break loose.

all in all, thank you for everyones input so far, the forums have been really helpful, i think ima go with a 96 / 55 gearing for a 3.49 FDR and adjust the timing, when i was at 88 / 53 3.3 FDR my temps were around 150* so hopefully this change wont affect my temps too much, again thanks from everybody for your input
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:42 AM   #1131
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thx for the pdf, i kno andrews setup is for carpet but he has the only 6.2 17.5t setup i could go off of... i also noticed your running 2000cst in your diff, thats not too thick? i tried 1000cst and even that felt like the rear end couldnt break loose.
No problem
But it says 20000cst... and I am not joking The AE gear diff is not reacting as strong as other diffs on thicker oil. So the car will still drive good and turn good without oversteer on exit. But of course my setup should just give you some ideas
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:11 AM   #1132
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I think the key to getting that good steering is the 3mm shimming. Rick Howartz has discussed this in the past. The AE cars really respond well raising it all up.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:16 PM   #1133
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Droop is my real hero. With it you can really change the car. Everything else is just minor, but of course it is part of the symphony.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:03 PM   #1134
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does anyone know how the spec-r diff feels compared to the normal AE diff? is it more aggressive? should i run thicker or lighter oil then normal?

and when u say 3mm outer mount shims, are you talking about the shims that go under the outer arm moung bulk head? (ASC4617) and whats the option CVA's that people tend to put in? i just bent one of mine 5 minutes ago =(
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:24 PM   #1135
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does anyone know how the spec-r diff feels compared to the normal AE diff? is it more aggressive? should i run thicker or lighter oil then normal?

and when u say 3mm outer mount shims, are you talking about the shims that go under the outer arm moung bulk head? (ASC4617) and whats the option CVA's that people tend to put in? i just bent one of mine 5 minutes ago =(
Yes, inner and outer mounts with those shims. They also make some carbon fiber ones that are easier to take in and out (31629 and 31630). CVA's people are either using the RSD DCJ's or the new DCV's directly from associated. The benefit of the associated is you can use the stock hex hubs.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:47 PM   #1136
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For the DCV's ASC31632, these will work for front and back? And will i need 2 sets of bearings ASC91156 per block for a total of 4 packs?
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:10 PM   #1137
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For the DCV's ASC31632, these will work for front and back? And will i need 2 sets of bearings ASC91156 per block for a total of 4 packs?
Yes you can use them front or back, but you only really need them in front.
It requires 1 of those bearings per wheel with DCV. So 1 bag will do the front end.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:13 PM   #1138
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For the DCV's ASC31632, these will work for front and back? And will i need 2 sets of bearings ASC91156 per block for a total of 4 packs?
You really only need to use DCVs on the front. Using them in the rear is overkill.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:23 PM   #1139
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For the DCV's ASC31632, these will work for front and back? And will i need 2 sets of bearings ASC91156 per block for a total of 4 packs?
Only the inner bearing should be changed to the 3mm for the DCV conversion.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:00 PM   #1140
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Yes you can use them front or back, but you only really need them in front.
It requires 1 of those bearings per wheel with DCV. So 1 bag will do the front end.
kinda wish u would of posted this 3 hours ago lol, i purchased 2 bags total, oh well

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You really only need to use DCVs on the front. Using them in the rear is overkill.
i like overkill




one more stupid question from this noob... whats a good fan to run? right now i have my LRP Flow ESC fan rigged up behind it (i used an old spare b4.2 servo mount). Will that fan be enough or do i need something better?
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