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Old 06-11-2014, 02:03 PM   #1111
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Did some more testing of the rear bumpsteer thing, today.
Unfortunately the track was very dusty and green after thunderstorms (and I was the only driver), so I wasn't able to get near my best laptime of 12.39s.
Like Worst87 suggested I reversed the bumpsteer direction. The car was a little more inert and didn't want to turn as easy as before. Therefore it could be driven much more aggressive, especially in fast direction changes. I liked it that way and returned to the short camber links in the rear. The car turned better, but still not quite like I want it (fastest lap: 12.68s) I also tried different wheelbases, a narrow front and thicker (yellow) anti-roll-bars in front.
0mm wheelbase in front seems to turn a little better, also the yellow rollbars in front seem to make car a little better in the middle of the corner.

In conclusion I will use rear bumpsteer as balance aid. In low grip the increasing toe lets you drive more aggressive into the corner and gives a little advantage accelerating out of the corner. In high grip conditions like high grip carpet I prefer a "steering" rear.
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:22 PM   #1112
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Hey WTCC, could you use the increased rear grip from the "toe-in on Bump" bumpsteer setting and re-balance the handling towards more front end grip via lower front roll center or higher rear roll center? In theory the car should have higher cornering potential.
Another possibility would be the classical way --> harder rear anti roll bar / softer front roll bar.
Really interessing to read your test results!
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:52 PM   #1113
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I will try more things the coming week. The car is already very good. I am just looking for the last 1-2 tenth that make it a race winner. Your ideas are always welcome! I thought of thicker oil in the rear gear diff, but I am not sure if this will give oversteer on the corner exit...
When I started touring car with the TC5, I learned setup the hard way. The teamdriver setups made the car understeer very strong and the Xray setupguide implemented the opposite of the written behaviour. So I learned by doing and suiting the car to my driving style.

Edit: Just another picture to make clear how the "increase toe bumpsteer" looks like:



This setup gives around 2* additional toe in when full deflected.
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Last edited by wtcc; 06-12-2014 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:17 PM   #1114
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If you're talking about the TEK chassis with the split blocks, it doesn't look like it, remember that was designed for the 6.1 motor mount which is completely different, and it looks to use the single bellcrank vs the dual on the 6.2
thanks..i didnt know if i could use the RSD aluminum chassis on my exotek tc6
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:22 PM   #1115
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thanks..i didnt know if i could use the RSD aluminum chassis on my exotek tc6
The TeK6 chassis has an optional dual bell crank system with integrated floating servo mount. If, the bulkhead screws holes line up, then the motor mount and layshaft mounts for the center pulley may be the only issue.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:28 PM   #1116
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Whats good 17.5 gearing for this car
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:52 PM   #1117
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thanks..i didnt know if i could use the RSD aluminum chassis on my exotek tc6
No, they are not compatible that we know of.
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Old 06-22-2014, 05:17 PM   #1118
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I had a great outing with my RSD aluminum chassis last night so stable and consistent
the best upgrade I have installed
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:19 PM   #1119
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No, they are not compatible that we know of.
o ok thanks!..well i may have to look into getting a 6.2

unless yall make 1 for the tc6 & 6.1
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Old 06-22-2014, 10:08 PM   #1120
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Looking awesome.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:16 PM   #1121
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I am the only one at my track with a tc6.2 and i need some help. My track is fairly large (150x80) with a long back straight and decent infield. I cant seem the find the sweet spot when it comes to gearing and shock setup. The track is out door painted asphalt and normally around 80*f outside. Im running the muchmoore 36 tires, current gearing 88/53 which puts me at a 3.3 FDR, and stock springs with 35w front 32.5w rear oil and 1k weight oil in the diff.

Now here is the issues im currently having;
1) my rear end is TOO planted, the car pushes and understeers every turn forcing me to take the longest line possible to make the turns. How can i loosen up my rear end and gain more steering?
2) even with a 3.3FDR my car is just so sluggish. like i said im the only one with a tc6.2 at my track everyone else is running yokomo, xray, vbc, etc etc and they have FDRs of around 3.5 to 3.7 and it looks like some of them are running 10.5Ts (its a 17.5t blinky class). iv tried their gear setup and matching the FDRs but nothing is working. What seems the be the sweet spot spur gear that this car works well with?
3) the car just bounces everywhere. i cant find a good shock setup to keep the car consistent. im running B arm mounts, 3 shock tower mounts, ride height 5 and droop 5.5. im not sure what the problem is at all, im normally an off road guy so a little bump doesnt normally bother me until now

I know asking the forums is a long shot because no one can actually see how my car is reacting, but like i said i am the only person at my track with a TC6.2. Any help at all would be great.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:24 PM   #1122
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR View Post
I am the only one at my track with a tc6.2 and i need some help. My track is fairly large (150x80) with a long back straight and decent infield. I cant seem the find the sweet spot when it comes to gearing and shock setup. The track is out door painted asphalt and normally around 80*f outside. Im running the muchmoore 36 tires, current gearing 88/53 which puts me at a 3.3 FDR, and stock springs with 35w front 32.5w rear oil and 1k weight oil in the diff.

Now here is the issues im currently having;
1) my rear end is TOO planted, the car pushes and understeers every turn forcing me to take the longest line possible to make the turns. How can i loosen up my rear end and gain more steering?
2) even with a 3.3FDR my car is just so sluggish. like i said im the only one with a tc6.2 at my track everyone else is running yokomo, xray, vbc, etc etc and they have FDRs of around 3.5 to 3.7 and it looks like some of them are running 10.5Ts (its a 17.5t blinky class). iv tried their gear setup and matching the FDRs but nothing is working. What seems the be the sweet spot spur gear that this car works well with?
3) the car just bounces everywhere. i cant find a good shock setup to keep the car consistent. im running B arm mounts, 3 shock tower mounts, ride height 5 and droop 5.5. im not sure what the problem is at all, im normally an off road guy so a little bump doesnt normally bother me until now

I know asking the forums is a long shot because no one can actually see how my car is reacting, but like i said i am the only person at my track with a TC6.2. Any help at all would be great.
Tons of steering and has been running exceptionally well for me. Thanks Rick
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ya_10-2013.pdf
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:48 PM   #1123
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Keep in mind Rick's setup referenced is for mod. In general, the setup is probably fine for 17.5, but things like front gear diff and rear 3k may be unnecessary. Just thought I'd point this out

"I am the only one at my track with a tc6.2 and i need some help. My track is fairly large (150x80) with a long back straight and decent infield. I cant seem the find the sweet spot when it comes to gearing and shock setup. The track is out door painted asphalt and normally around 80*f outside. Im running the muchmoore 36 tires, current gearing 88/53 which puts me at a 3.3 FDR, and stock springs with 35w front 32.5w rear oil and 1k weight oil in the diff.

Now here is the issues im currently having;
1) my rear end is TOO planted, the car pushes and understeers every turn forcing me to take the longest line possible to make the turns. How can i loosen up my rear end and gain more steering?
Pushes when? On power, off power, what part of turn (entry, mid, exit)? Rear toe is a big one. Try decreasing it. What's your camber and how are your links mounted? How many shims do you have for roll center (aka inner/outer mount shims)
2) even with a 3.3FDR my car is just so sluggish. like i said im the only one with a tc6.2 at my track everyone else is running yokomo, xray, vbc, etc etc and they have FDRs of around 3.5 to 3.7 and it looks like some of them are running 10.5Ts (its a 17.5t blinky class). iv tried their gear setup and matching the FDRs but nothing is working. What seems the be the sweet spot spur gear that this car works well with?
96 spur is fine for 17.5 blinky. 3.5 fdr seems reasonable, if not lower (3.4) for that size of track. Bearings good? Driveline free? Weight? Body nice and low? What motor?
3) the car just bounces everywhere. i cant find a good shock setup to keep the car consistent. im running B arm mounts, 3 shock tower mounts, ride height 5 and droop 5.5. im not sure what the problem is at all, im normally an off road guy so a little bump doesnt normally bother me until now
Make sure there is no air in your shocks (You seem to know your car so probably not an issue). Your 5.5 droop. Is that measured per the AE setup sheet? 2mm over ride height is a good start. Did you vent your caps? If not, try that as well.

I know asking the forums is a long shot because no one can actually see how my car is reacting, but like i said i am the only person at my track with a TC6.2. Any help at all would be great."
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #1124
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Keep in mind Rick's setup referenced is for mod. In general, the setup is probably fine for 17.5, but things like front gear diff and rear 3k may be unnecessary. Just thought I'd point this out


Pushes when? On power, off power, what part of turn (entry, mid, exit)? Rear toe is a big one. Try decreasing it. What's your camber and how are your links mounted? How many shims do you have for roll center (aka inner/outer mount shims)

96 spur is fine for 17.5 blinky. 3.5 fdr seems reasonable, if not lower (3.4) for that size of track. Bearings good? Driveline free? Weight? Body nice and low? What motor?

Make sure there is no air in your shocks (You seem to know your car so probably not an issue). Your 5.5 droop. Is that measured per the AE setup sheet? 2mm over ride height is a good start. Did you vent your caps? If not, try that as well.
it understeers as soon as i enter the turn and get nothing when i go on power to try to exit, 1.5 camber front and rear, my suspension geometry and set up is the same as Andrew Cartwright's setup on the AE site. Its a new car so all the bearings are good and everything moves freely and the cars weight just makes it over roar specs.

i tried a 96 spur with a 3.6 FDR and it was still very slow on the back straight, i even had the top racer at my local track try out my car to see what he thought about it and even he was shocked at how slow it was. im running the reedy sonic mach 2 17.5

i dont believe there is air in my shocks, there is very, VERY minimal rebound in all 4 shocks and their all even. however in order for me to obtain even ride height from left to right, one shock needs to be pre loaded ALOT more then the other (ie ill need to spin one shock 20 times and the other shock 10 times). i did recently purchase the spec-r shock eyelits and spring retainers and im also going to try yokomo springs
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:20 PM   #1125
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it understeers as soon as i enter the turn and get nothing when i go on power to try to exit, 1.5 camber front and rear, my suspension geometry and set up is the same as Andrew Cartwright's setup on the AE site. Its a new car so all the bearings are good and everything moves freely and the cars weight just makes it over roar specs.

i tried a 96 spur with a 3.6 FDR and it was still very slow on the back straight, i even had the top racer at my local track try out my car to see what he thought about it and even he was shocked at how slow it was. im running the reedy sonic mach 2 17.5

i dont believe there is air in my shocks, there is very, VERY minimal rebound in all 4 shocks and their all even. however in order for me to obtain even ride height from left to right, one shock needs to be pre loaded ALOT more then the other (ie ill need to spin one shock 20 times and the other shock 10 times). i did recently purchase the spec-r shock eyelits and spring retainers and im also going to try yokomo springs
You racing at Debbies right? Let me run it. I'll even let you borrow a motor if you need to see if that's the problem.
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