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Old 06-07-2014, 06:01 AM   #1081
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So how many people's kit where missing parts? Mine was missing complete rear diff. Pretty Said when I order $109 3racing kit and it's all there but this high end kit was sealed and missing parts. AE Will be getting a phone call
well stuff happens, its not really a high end kit but its a good kit. Don't take it personally, haha. Im sure they will send you a rear gear diff when ASAP.
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Old 06-08-2014, 12:39 AM   #1082
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Hi everyone. Im looking to buy a TC6.2 kit, and was wondering if there are any essential upgrades needed to make it that bit better? And any general tuning tips would be appreciated.

Cheers Joel
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:23 AM   #1083
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RSD bladders, pistons and spring set are a real plus. DJC in front, carbon fiber shims for the suspension mounts, one anti-roll-bar set and different diff oils and you are good suited to get the most out of this chassis
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:48 AM   #1084
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RSD bladders, pistons and spring set are a real plus. DJC in front, carbon fiber shims for the suspension mounts, one anti-roll-bar set and different diff oils and you are good suited to get the most out of this chassis
Thanks for the tips mate, ill post some pics when ive completed the kit. Do u think the Protoform LTCR body would suit this kit? And im just wondering what a DJC is? Ive just never heard that term before.

Cheers Joel
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:53 AM   #1085
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Thanks for the tips mate, ill post some pics when ive completed the kit. Do u think the Protoform LTCR body would suit this kit? And im just wondering what a DJC is? Ive just never heard that term before.

Cheers Joel
Well that is dependent on your track and your ddriving style. If your new to touring car, the Ltd - isn't exactly the easiest car body to drive with, it's not very neutral. It's pretty aggressive steering wise and not as stable.as other r bodies making it harder to drive than say a Mazda speed 6. That is the general body people start with. However if your racing on asphalt or something else other than carpet I can't say for sure. The best thing to do is to get into.contact with your local touring car racer at the track. Find that guy or that group of guys and ask them what they are running.
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:55 AM   #1086
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Well that is dependent on your track and your ddriving style. If your new to touring car, the Ltd - isn't exactly the easiest car body to drive with, it's not very neutral. It's pretty aggressive steering wise and not as stable.as other r bodies making it harder to drive than say a Mazda speed 6. That is the general body people start with. However if your racing on asphalt or something else other than carpet I can't say for sure. The best thing to do is to get into.contact with your local touring car racer at the track. Find that guy or that group of guys and ask them what they are running.
No worries mate. Ill have a chat to racers at my local track, and the surface we race on is smooth asphalt. Thanks for the help mate.

Cheers Joel
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:54 AM   #1087
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And im just wondering what a DJC is? Ive just never heard that term before.Cheers Joel
I meant this:
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31632/
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Old 06-08-2014, 12:34 PM   #1088
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What gearing are the stock people messing around with? I ran a 96 / 50 and it seemed super slow. Any input?

Im also having steering issues. Nothing is binding anywhere but it seems like it should be turning sharper compared to the other cars on the track. Im running a Savox 1258 servo.
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Old 06-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #1089
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Hey guys I got my new RSD aluminum chassis installed and ran a few packs on our carpet track. This chassis makes the car so stable completely solved all the traction roll issues, I love it!!! it is also very pretty .If you haven't ordered one ,you should


P.S ignore my mismatched screws
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-photo-8-.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-photo-7-.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-photo-6-.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-photo-5-.jpg  

Last edited by cmunro; 06-08-2014 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:18 PM   #1090
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Hey guys I got my new RSD aluminum chassis installed and ran a few packs on our carpet track. This chassis makes the car so stable completely solved all the traction roll issues, I love it!!! it is also very pretty .If you haven't ordered one ,you should


P.S ignore my mismatched screws
How much does it weight 35g? Over the stock one?
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:29 PM   #1091
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Cheers mate, ill look into it. Ill give the standard kit setup a run first then ill see if the upgrades are needed. Thanks for your help.

Cheers Joel
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:33 PM   #1092
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The chassis is 22-25g heavier than the stock one.
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:35 PM   #1093
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The chassis is 22-25g heavier than the stock one.
Wow that's it? Most others are like 35+
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:41 PM   #1094
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What gearing are the stock people messing around with? I ran a 96 / 50 and it seemed super slow. Any input?

Im also having steering issues. Nothing is binding anywhere but it seems like it should be turning sharper compared to the other cars on the track. Im running a Savox 1258 servo.
There are other factors to speed than just gearing. Look at your motor timing, the factory default is usually significantly slower than is optimal, but watch the heat, keep it below 160 degrees. Track layouts sometimes favor slower but controlled speeds; I run faster lap times with a 42/96 than a 44/96 or 50/96, better control.

On the steering, look at the end point adj and dual rate on your radio, make sure you are getting enough throw.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:43 PM   #1095
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There are other factors to speed than just gearing. Look at your motor timing, the factory default is usually significantly slower than is optimal, but watch the heat, keep it below 160 degrees. Track layouts sometimes favor slower but controlled speeds; I run faster lap times with a 42/96 than a 44/96 or 50/96, better control.

On the steering, look at the end point adj and dual rate on your radio, make sure you are getting enough throw.
+1 what Dread said

Gizmo,

It's usually best to check with the other locals on gearing since track size, layout, traction, motor type, temperatures, etc. all play a roll. It's hard to determine through a forum. But, with that said, 3.6-4.1 final drive is what I'll typically run for blinky 17.5.

Your Savox has sufficient throw, so, like Dread said, make sure your end points (EPA) on your radio are set correctly. The steering blocks should just contact the caster blocks. I have about a 2.5ft turning circle at full lock and 100% D/R
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