thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

true however i dont run mod so rotational weight isnt good.

skyball

Hi Rick, thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I read your comment on Friday night while I was at the ETS race in Austria.

Before that I had already copied the geometry parts of your setup (track width, wheelbase, camber link length...) but left the rollcenter settings somewhere about the "standard values". While I felt very encouraged to try the higher rollcenter, I just didn't dare making such a change during the qualifying runs. Especially since I was already very happy with the cars steering and corner speed and more struggling not to "kiss the borders" too often while maintaining speed and a close raceline.

On my next practice or race I will surely try the "high rollcenter" thing.

BTW, at the race I had a chance to meet Juho Levanen, who turned out to be super nice.

I also had a little talk with Toni Rheinard, who strongly recommended to visit the ETS race in Trencin, Slovakia on July 4th to 6th. It's held at the - obviously fantastic - XRAY facility (HUDY Arena), which not only includes a very interesting XRAY factory tour but also features an indoor and an outdoor track so racing doesn't depend on the wheather. That said, the wheather should generally be just fine at that time of the year in Slovakia. So if you're interested in attending an ETS race this year, you might want to check your schedule at "Independence Day" .

Christian

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Hey Mr. Rick Howart,

Have a question about your newest setup you have posted. It looks like the difference between your GCR #7 and the GCR#8 is +.2mm RH in the rear, Anti-Roll Bars completely different and your Cam Position is down low.

Curious what you were trying to compensate for there?

I run a lot of parking lot racing and noticed you said in the past to drop the arm mounts to the chassis and the inner camber links to 1mm for low grip tracks, I'm assuming that still goes? The tracks can be a little bumpy as well.

RC.Jon22

iTrader: (27)

Question for you guys - so I'm trying to mess around with setups, and I'm trying out Rick Hohwart's setup, but I noticed that the kit uses a 0.5mm shim under the inner/outer arm mounts. Rick's setup calls for 3mm shims on both the inner and outer arm mounts. I saw the new Associated arm mount shims (part # 31629 and 31630) but they are just flat little graphite pieces that come in 1mm and 0.5mm sizes. Should I just stack these up to get to 3mm or just use regular blue shims? I was just curious because I feel like the graphite AE ones might fall out over time. Any feedback would be great.

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

So when ricks set up called for 3mm of shims did it say on the mount? Because thats a crazy amount or rc shims on the bottom. And you would probably need a longer screw

Rick Hohwart

I have also been told that this is THE race to attend. If the timing is favorable, I will try to attend.

The anti-roll bars are the "old style" TC5 one-pieces bar type. I have had some problems with the new style wires bending so I thought I would go back to the older style which I have always liked. The biggest problem is that AE does not make a very good selection of this type. But as an alternative you can use Yokomo bars which offer a wide variety of sizes.

The lower diffs make the car easier to drive. The track this time was lower grip so I thought that this helped. The very high front diff gives the car a lot of on-power steering but it can also be twitchy which is what I was trying to eliminate. The ride high was to try to free up the rear end a little to get more rotation.

You can lower the suspension mounts and camber links to increase grip. But I have found that the car is not as good on the bumps this way.

You can stack the graphite shims and if your screws are tight, they won't fall out. These are way easier to deal with than washers so I highly recommend them regardless of how many you use.

Yes 3mm under the mount.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

With all the ARS announcements going on, I thought of showing you how AE already prepared the 6.2 for this solution. If you already got some spares the ARS for your 6.2 will cost you nearly nothing
You need the front suspension plastic parts, 2 ballstuds, 2 flathead screws, two damper mounts, four ballstud eyelets and two short turnbuckles (around 16mm length).
Take the ballstud and screw it into the damper mount. Take the flathead screw, push it through the chassis (blue screw on picture) and attach the ballstud-dampermount on the upside. Install all the front suspension parts on the rear axle. Assemble the turnbuckkles and clip them on the steering block.









And thats it! Not really xD The hardest will be to find out what kind of ARS setup will work for you in the situation. Use shims to manipulate the changes in degree on the suspension.

skyball

Great post Kevin! I had also thought about that possibility but couldn't get around to try. So thanks a lot for the information! How were your first experiences?

Christian

svturtle

iTrader: (2)

Hi guy's, moving up from my trusty TC4 to either the TC6.1WC or TC6.2.
Is the 6.2 worth the extra $120 over the 6.1?
I know both will be a huge leap over the TC4 but in performance only terms, ie-laptimes is there much between the these two?

Awesoman

Doesn't this change also affect the wheelbase?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

I haven't tried it on the 6.2 yet as I do not have enough front suspension spares at home for a full conversation

@awesoman: Not sure about that, but the "great" change is in the rear damper geometry. So I recommend to do one side first and then compare it to the normal side to get something similar in geometry.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Shear laptimes will not really differ between 6.1 & 6.2. The 6.2 will be easier to drive on all tracks and not that pointy setup wise like the 6.1. The 6.1 will stay a weapon if you find your setup.

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

You can also adjust the permanent slip angle of he tire via castor in the rear. I'd imagine you want it to be the same direction as the front. Looks very interesting I was going to do something similar with tc5 parts a few months ago but they weren't comparable. Please share information as you get it with this set up !!! Also why the short hole on the knuckle?

svturtle

iTrader: (2)

Thanks wtcc, i like the idea of "easier to drive on all tracks".
I only get to run on race days so a chassis that's there abouts to begin with is more suitable.
6.2 it is then, now to make use of my Tower coupons.

skyball

...hmmm, basically the outer ball eyelet of the "castor link" (tm pending) will move on the surface of a sphere, with the inner ball eyelet (chassis side) being the center of the sphere and the length of the "castor link" determining the radius. So using the short hole on the knuckle creates a shorter "castor link", thus a smaller radius of the sphere. A smaller sphere has a more curved surface, therefore you get more castor change when the suspension gets compressed = more reactive castor.

So much for geometry. How much reactive castor you want still remains to be determined at the moment.

Christian