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Old 11-20-2013, 01:47 PM   #76
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Unless you switch to the nitro tc ball suspension system, the jiggles will always be there..... I think the Edam Esprit is the only Car to use those....
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #77
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Awesomatix's new floating front gearbox, perhaps?

I have to say, my T4'14 definitely looks less sexy after seeing the pics of the new AE. But the AE shocks on the TC6.1 were pretty awful.

As far as the hinge pin pivoting goes, I think the ball isn't really supposed to rotate with suspension travel, as much as it's supposed to let the hinge pin align properly with various inboard toe settings. The T4'14 doesn't even use balls. I think the inside of the insert is kinda shaped like this ) ( or maybe this / \ so that it grabs the pin pretty tight, but gives it room to align with inboard toe settings, without tweaking the pin. After some careful reaming on the arms with a 3mm drill bit, the arms move so free on the pins, without being sloppy, that I really don't think it matters.

-Mike
Your right as far as a new design, but they did that due to a problem with the shaft of shaft driven cars, making the chassis flex, and belt driven cars arent having that problem....or are they jk. Maybe I shouldve said "belt driven" ground breaking designs


again thanks for the input though
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:59 PM   #78
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Hmmmm... wondering why orange is for sale.....
Go blue! I'm tired of being the only AE TC driver at Ho-B max. .

Aaron
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:06 PM   #79
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Go blue! I'm tired of being the only AE TC driver at Ho-B max. .

Aaron
Niiiiiice!
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:18 PM   #80
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Go blue! I'm tired of being the only AE TC driver at Ho-B max. .

Aaron
I am blue, just a different shade... Yokomo and Tamiya! hehe
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:49 PM   #81
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In regards to my earlier post on page 5 of this forum--I have to admit that despite all my nit-picking, the 6.1 and 6.2 are totally cars that get the job done. They've appeared in many prestigious A-mains with many respectable finishes, and obviously we're dealing with a serious, thought-out piece of machinery. In rereading my earlier post, I sound fairly negative about the car, and if it rubbed anyone the wrong way, that was not my intent.

There are more than a handful of positives about the AE as well. I will go on record as saying that I like the High Definition Roll Control and the open front bumper area for the transponder. I think that most of the engineering on the car is top-notch. The pistons in the shocks attach to the shock shafts via a screw on top of the shaft. Having that screw holding down the end of the piston is brilliant, as it eliminates any up/down movement on the shaft. Other cars I've built use a system of two E-clips to sandwich the piston, and while they're pretty tight on there, I'm convinced that I can still feel a little up/down movement.

Many other things about the car make it a really great choice for a TC. I still do, however, wish they'd have changed the suspension plastics a little. I went out to the garage to take another look at the car tonight, and I think most of the jiggle I was talking about before really comes from the outer hinge pins more than on the inner pins. In addition, Rick was right about there being a higher chance of slop with two means of hinging the arms on the inner pins.

Mr. Hohwart, I appreciated your response and the advice on the Yokomo ball cups. May I ask what you (or anyone reading this) does about the movement the C-hubs make on the outer hinge pins? My parts are a couple races old now, but even brand new you can move the ball on top of the C-hub forward and backward on the car with a fair amount of movement. Do you notice this on your car, and if you have did you find it inconsequential or did you fix it somehow?

So in closing: The car is totally capable--I'm just picky!
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:29 PM   #82
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The other thing you can do to remove some of the slop from the C hub and rear hub is to put a grub screw in the bottom of them,
I went to all the trouble of polishing my hinge pins so they move freely within the arms, this plus the grub screw i get absolutely no play + very free movement. It only takes 2 seconds to do.

So because i wanted to try something different i purchased a yokomo bd7, guess what after a few weeks of racing i have a play in the c hubs, ok not quite as much as unglued associated c hubs, but play non the less.

Some easy mods to make any 6.1/6.2 better for serious racing (im sure Rick has posted these before)

1) the above mod
2) reflex bladders in shocks
3) reflex 3x1.1 pistons
4) drill a small hole in your top shock cap
5) reflex or new associated drive shafts
6) steel spool outdrives (reflex ones were ok but didnt last long in Mod, yokomo/spec R spool was a little better)

Beth.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:41 PM   #83
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The other thing you can do to remove some of the slop from the C hub and rear hub is to put a grub screw in the bottom of them,
I went to all the trouble of polishing my hinge pins so they move freely within the arms, this plus the grub screw i get absolutely no play + very free movement. It only takes 2 seconds to do.

So because i wanted to try something different i purchased a yokomo bd7, guess what after a few weeks of racing i have a play in the c hubs, ok not quite as much as unglued associated c hubs, but play non the less.

Some easy mods to make any 6.1/6.2 better for serious racing (im sure Rick has posted these before)

1) the above mod
2) reflex bladders in shocks
3) reflex 3x1.1 pistons
4) drill a small hole in your top shock cap
5) reflex or new associated drive shafts
6) steel spool outdrives (reflex ones were ok but didnt last long in Mod, yokomo/spec R spool was a little better)

Beth.

Great ideas here! +1! I highly agree with the rsd components too...I myself have Most of these highly inexpensive upgrades.

Though im trying to picture how u eliminated the slop with the grub screw on the bottom. If at all possible. ..pics please!
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:50 PM   #84
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Though im trying to picture how u eliminated the slop with the grub screw on the bottom. If at all possible. ..pics please!
No problem ill take some photos tonight,
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:40 AM   #85
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The other thing you can do to remove some of the slop from the C hub and rear hub is to put a grub screw in the bottom of them,
I went to all the trouble of polishing my hinge pins so they move freely within the arms, this plus the grub screw i get absolutely no play + very free movement. It only takes 2 seconds to do.
Using a grub screw is a double-edged sword: The grub screw can take away most of the slop, but therefore it will also take away the free movement of the suspension. Unfortunately this process is not digital, but analog, which means that you always sacrifice free movement for a little less slop. It seems to work in the beginning, but turns out to loose its effectivity if the suspension developes more slop and you try to adjust it with the grub screw. I worked with grub screws in all four corners of the car for months and came to the insight that you are better without it...

Points two to six have my full recommendation
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:32 AM   #86
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Using a grub screw is a double-edged sword: The grub screw can take away most of the slop, but therefore it will also take away the free movement of the suspension.
Strange it didn't have that issue, as I said I polished the pins to make them smooth in the arms with no binding.



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Old 11-21-2013, 02:18 AM   #87
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Hi Guys
I returned to TC racing about 8 months ago, i used to race a Losi Street Weapon Worlds so iv been away a little while….. Got myself a TC6.1 WE and i have been gradually improving it through extensive testing and various updates since ready for the BRCA outdoor nationals in 2014. The end result is the pics below, interestingly it has ended up similar in some ways to the TC6.2 and I'm very happy with how it goes. It will be really interesting to compare it to the proper TC6.2s on track!

If anyone is interested in set up info for low grip asphalt let me know.

Kind regards
Tom
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Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-hpim0666.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-hpim0667.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-hpim0669.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-hpim0671.jpg  
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:26 AM   #88
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Mr. Hohwart, I appreciated your response and the advice on the Yokomo ball cups. May I ask what you (or anyone reading this) does about the movement the C-hubs make on the outer hinge pins? My parts are a couple races old now, but even brand new you can move the ball on top of the C-hub forward and backward on the car with a fair amount of movement. Do you notice this on your car, and if you have did you find it inconsequential or did you fix it somehow?

So in closing: The car is totally capable--I'm just picky!
I am crazy about slop and binding so I do whatever I can to make my cars perfect. With the AE car, this means gluing the inserts, using grub screws on the hub carriers and caster blocks (like evochick), and using shims on hinge pins.

The movement you describe might be a combination of several things. I think that using a grub screw (drill hole after inserts are glued) will fix most of this. You can shim the c-hub with a thin washer.

However I am not sure that a completely tight car is better. With my TC6.1, I have gone as far as buying and cutting drill blank material (slightly larger than stock pins) to replace the stock hinge pins and using the appropriately sized reamer to enlarge the holes that the pin fit in the arms is perfect. I even went so far as to match ball studs to ball cups (test fitting) to reduce slop but still remain free. If you do all of this and use grub screws, there will be pretty much no play anywhere.

Ultimately, another care of mine with standard parts (but with grub screws) worked equally well.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:22 PM   #89
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Maybe like in Offroad, little slop isn't bad. In every road car suspension is slop, too. The suspension geometry/setup is prepared for that, as it immediately preloads if the car starts rolling. Our setup has similar angles for the tires so we will have a preloaded suspension too
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:51 PM   #90
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that's true!
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