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Old 03-24-2014, 04:01 PM   #796
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Originally Posted by MDawson View Post
Factory advice.
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
I set the droop even with the shocks off and set the anit-roll bar at this time. Then final droop settings when the shocks are on.
This. Sorry, also check the droop with the shocks back on also. When you put the shocks back on there shouldn't be much (if any) adjustment. If there is, look at your shock lengths, preload etc
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:25 PM   #797
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Pretty standard process.
1) fill with fluid.
2) push piston near the top of the shock body and wait about 10 seconds for the air bubbles to rise to just under the piston.
3a) Slowly pull the piston downward while rotating the shaft.
3b) Fill the remaining space with oil.
4) Set aside to allow bubbles to rise.
5) push the piston up half way and place the bladder on top of the shock body.
6) While pushing the piston up to about 75% of the total stroke (oil will spill out of course), use the eraser end of a pencil in the center of the bladder to press it flush to the top of the shock body while holding the piston at 75%.
Note: this will create a bit of vacuum under the bladder, keeping it somewhat sealed.
7) Place the top cap on and carefully tighten, trying not to rock the eyelet.

Hopefully you are not mistaking the noise you hear as being bubbles rather than the machine marks inside the shock bore. (something AE needs to address) This makes them appear "Cheap" IMO.
Well I built them that way and the noise im hearing is air. Also when I take the shocks apart theirs air bubbles in them. Replaced the o rings and seals and same issue
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:18 PM   #798
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Well I built them that way and the noise im hearing is air. Also when I take the shocks apart theirs air bubbles in them. Replaced the o rings and seals and same issue
The Reflex bladders really help because you can see if they are built without air or not. Otherwise, it is possible you have a scratched shock shaft or something else pulling in air.
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:48 PM   #799
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The Reflex bladders really help because you can see if they are built without air or not. Otherwise, it is possible you have a scratched shock shaft or something else pulling in air.
+1 on the RSD bladders!
What time frame are we talking about? 1 race day, 1 month or perhaps minutes after building? I have noticed air in the oil when pulling out the bladders only to find that the air bubbles were created while pulling off the bladders.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:16 PM   #800
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+1 on the RSD bladders!
What time frame are we talking about? 1 race day, 1 month or perhaps minutes after building? I have noticed air in the oil when pulling out the bladders only to find that the air bubbles were created while pulling off the bladders.
Well I used the rsd bladders and o rings. I cycled them a few times and left them for two nights at the track. To.come in on friday to find that they sounded like they had air in them. So I pulled them apart and saw air in them through the bladder. I have sanded the rings to make them fit snugger that didnt work. I have tried brand new o rings and bladders. This worked one time onlythen I change oil and it no longer worked.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:14 PM   #801
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Agreed.
Droop setting seems to be a personal preferance issue.

I was recently shown a way to measure droop by AE team driver and fellow canadian Pete Tozer.

simple, accurate and fast.

Remove tires
ensure chassis is flat on setup board
Measure with digital calipers to top of axle..

Droop distance

4mm 24.5
5mm 25.5
6mm 26.5
7mm 27.5

This method removes the subjectivity of traditional under the arm methods.
This method is also transferable to every class of rc race cars

DJC
Reminds me of this old article by David Jun.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/me...e#.UzD0QPldXNk
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:49 AM   #802
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i just set my ride height and set the car on the table , hold the tires down and pull up on the chassis to see how much uptravel i have before the screws hit. ive always had better luck setting it by feel and then measuring to be sure both sides are the same after .
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:47 PM   #803
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I have been rebuilding my 6.2 and recieived my R-Factor RC (yodog) carbon upgrade kit.

I have been using the rsd bumper already and the support bracket was a perfect fit.

also the center line lipo support has taken 95% of the battery movement out

ed
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-front.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-side.jpg  

Last edited by Edwin Pibal; 03-25-2014 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:08 PM   #804
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Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
I have been rebuilding my 6.2 and recieived my r factory (yodog) carbon upgrade kit.

I have been using the rsd bumper already and the support bracket was a perfect fit.

also the center line lipo support has taken 95% of the battery movement out

ed
Looks good Ed!
Did you use the battery brackets as well?
It's surprising how much more secure the battery is with the inner stop plate.

By the way... the branding is R-Factor RC now. I think R-Factory belongs to someone else.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:46 PM   #805
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Looks good Ed!
Did you use the battery brackets as well?
It's surprising how much more secure the battery is with the inner stop plate.

By the way... the branding is R-Factor RC now. I think R-Factory belongs to someone else.
opps, my bad, have edited post now.

I did, I just forgot the take a photo of them, will post it up tonight 8)

ed
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:55 PM   #806
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Hi there can anyone help with a setup with the tc6.2, bumpy, low to med track, med size high speed corners and flowing

Can anyone help please

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Old 03-26-2014, 02:40 PM   #807
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I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.

The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:53 PM   #808
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I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.

The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
No the body posts are in different spots.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:04 PM   #809
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Originally Posted by rossb View Post
I have an original TC6.1 (not the WC) and I'm thinking about getting a TC6.2 to run in a second class. Does anyone know if the body post positions are the same between these two cars? How about the body post positions for the TC6.1WC? I am also considering a TC6.1WC because they are cheap now.

The goal is to reuse some existing bodies without cutting a new set of mounting holes.
To clarify...
The body post locations from the TC6.2 to previous models are different however the TC6.1 and TC6.1WC are the same. The TC6.2 is such a different chassis, I don't understand why not name it the TC7.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:16 PM   #810
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I see you have both the 6.1WC and the 6.2. Is the 6.2 worth the $120 price difference for stock 17.5 touring?
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