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Old 01-25-2014, 04:07 PM   #496
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Why not stiffen the suspension to reduce roll? It would help keep weight from transferring to the outside and keep the car more planted. I've always run my cars very stiff, similar to actual race cars, and have had great success in high grip situations. When there is less grip I soften the suspension to allow weight to transfer to the front or outside of the car, increasing grip.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:41 PM   #497
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Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
Why not stiffen the suspension to reduce roll? It would help keep weight from transferring to the outside and keep the car more planted. I've always run my cars very stiff, similar to actual race cars, and have had great success in high grip situations. When there is less grip I soften the suspension to allow weight to transfer to the front or outside of the car, increasing grip.
It's all situation dependent. I've had it go both ways, where softening the car in some situations helped, and stiffening the car in some situations helped. With the new car, I ran into snap traction roll issues with the initial setup I threw on with knowledge gained from the 6.1 WC. The fact that the traction roll was initial, and not after a progressive roll of the car made it immediately apparent that the car was too stiff initially and thus needed to be allowed to roll more to alleviate the issue. So, softer springs, 1.1,1.1,1.5 pistons, and longer camber links all around numbed the car up at initial reaction while still allowing for traction in the corner. I don't have a ton of time on the car where I am convinced it is better to me than my well honed 6.1 WC, but it sure is good to see that the same changes help the car become easier to drive.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:37 AM   #498
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Pete - I started running TC a few weeks back, and that is excellent advice you got. Believe me, starting with something easy to drive and neutral - or even a little pushy - and then getting more aggressive is very good advice. If you're talking about Tom's new track, i'm sure once Mike Haynes runs there you'll have all the help you could possibly need. The class is fun - not easy to go as fast as the fast guys, but lot's of fun.
thanks Gary something different I have been in off road all my life this will be my first venture and looking forward to it.
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:13 PM   #499
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Would aluminum screws flex more than the steel ones and how about titani screws compared to the steel ones?
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:17 PM   #500
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Would aluminum screws flex more than the steel ones and how about titani screws compared to the steel ones?
Use spring steel of course............ It's got spring in the name for a reason
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:38 AM   #501
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Thumbs up Wheel hex spaces

Hi guys.
I run foam tires and the offset sometimes varies for brand to brand and I need to widen the track width and pack the wheels out.
The rears are a big problem at times as I can't run the shock out wide on the lower arms.
I run 1.5mm spacer but that's still not enough and I lose thread for a wheel nut.
What do on my 6.1 is pack out the arm mounts and the hex to try to balance it out.. Can't do that any more.
I was thinking of running a 3 mm bearing inboard on the stealing arm and rear uprights, anyone tried this?



Any bright ideas...
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:15 AM   #502
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Default Tc6.2 manual ipad does not like the PDF!

Tc6.2 manual.
ipad does not like the PDF!
Any one worked it out.
I tried to re save it with the front page deleted but still crashed.

Have I used up all my silly questions yet?



Steve
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:25 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
Hi guys.
I run foam tires and the offset sometimes varies for brand to brand and I need to widen the track width and pack the wheels out.
The rears are a big problem at times as I can't run the shock out wide on the lower arms.
I run 1.5mm spacer but that's still not enough and I lose thread for a wheel nut.
What do on my 6.1 is pack out the arm mounts and the hex to try to balance it out.. Can't do that any more.
I was thinking of running a 3 mm bearing inboard on the stealing arm and rear uprights, anyone tried this?



Any bright ideas...
well changing the track width is going to change how the car performs. However on the 6.1 or the 6.2 you can change the track width by 1). on the 6.1 adding the "toe shims" in the front and back of the car to push the arms out, try the 2deg shim if you need more then 3deg shim would work as well make sure your screws are long enough, i wouldnt try to go more than that on each arm, if you need more use wheel hex spacers 2). on the 6.2 by using different inserts, the kit came with 3 different ones for each arm mount if your running 1 dot try 2 or 3 dot to make the track width wider, if you still need it wider on the 6.2 than youll have to use hex shims

also this is the 6.2 thread, there is a 6 thread out there so im slightly confused which is why i put both the 6.2 and 6.1 track width tips please explain next time in the questions which car you have. as for the pdf look it up on the computer
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:29 AM   #504
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looking for some help with my tekin RS Gen2, 17.5 blinky mode, asphalt medium grip track. Does any one have a set up sheet/profile that they are willing share.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:51 AM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
Hi guys.
I run foam tires and the offset sometimes varies for brand to brand and I need to widen the track width and pack the wheels out.
The rears are a big problem at times as I can't run the shock out wide on the lower arms.
I run 1.5mm spacer but that's still not enough and I lose thread for a wheel nut.
What do on my 6.1 is pack out the arm mounts and the hex to try to balance it out.. Can't do that any more.
I was thinking of running a 3 mm bearing inboard on the stealing arm and rear uprights, anyone tried this?



Any bright ideas...
Compared to the TC6.1/2 rear arms and hubs, the TC6 arms are shorter and the TC6 hubs are more offset (you end up with approx. the same width). To widen out the rear end, you could attempt to mix and match... meaning run the 6.1/2 arms with the 6 hubs. But keep in mind that you'd be running your driveshafts further out in the diff and want to check that they won't pop out.
Also, the 6 hubs would need different hardware to run since they're narrower: either 5x10x3 bearings with the 6 crush tubes or the entire 6 axle/bearing assembly.

But honestly speaking, you probably want a stiffer chassis for foam racing. We used to run 2.5mm and even 3.0mm bottom plates for foam racing back in the day. The 6.1 or the 6.2 stock plates are designed softer to get the most out of rubber tires.

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Originally Posted by shanwright View Post
Tc6.2 manual.
ipad does not like the PDF!
Any one worked it out.
I tried to re save it with the front page deleted but still crashed.

Have I used up all my silly questions yet?



Steve
I had to print it to a PDF driver on my PC (you should be able to find some freeware if needed), and then that PDF worked fine on the iPad.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:23 PM   #506
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what pistons, oil, spring, and rebound are you guys running for tight technical tracks with medium-high bite
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:12 PM   #507
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Originally Posted by rc car guy View Post
well changing the track width is going to change how the car performs. However on the 6.1 or the 6.2 you can change the track width by 1). on the 6.1 adding the "toe shims" in the front and back of the car to push the arms out, try the 2deg shim if you need more then 3deg shim would work as well make sure your screws are long enough, i wouldnt try to go more than that on each arm, if you need more use wheel hex spacers 2). on the 6.2 by using different inserts, the kit came with 3 different ones for each arm mount if your running 1 dot try 2 or 3 dot to make the track width wider, if you still need it wider on the 6.2 than youll have to use hex shims

also this is the 6.2 thread, there is a 6 thread out there so im slightly confused which is why i put both the 6.2 and 6.1 track width tips please explain next time in the questions which car you have. as for the pdf look it up on the computer
I have a 6 and 6.1. I'm thinking about getting a 6.2 and wonder if the toe shim will give me enough width. Because I put extra washers under the toe shims on the 6. But you can't do that with the 6.2..

It there anything better then washer to put on the hexs. I recon I will drop them and lose them I haven't seen wider hex drives that will fit on the TA axial .
I was thinking may be a drop or tow of CA so I don't lose them..
Any other ideas..
Thanks for the answers guys, I agree and understand with all the feed back so far. Interesting to here about chassis flex and wanting to run it stiffer for foams..

Steve
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:07 PM   #508
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question on keven's latest set up sheet he put steering bellcrank screws out/ attach top to steering plate? how did he attached it I am trying to find out a way but i am drawing a blank
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:25 PM   #509
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question on keven's latest set up sheet he put steering bellcrank screws out/ attach top to steering plate? how did he attached it I am trying to find out a way but i am drawing a blank
Basicaaly what that is..Is Don't run the 2 screws from from servo plate to steering post. Just mount servo to plate and chassie and forget the 2 other screws.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:30 PM   #510
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oh i forgot to put in the word "plate" it should read top plate to steering plate. How did he attached it like that? i got the whole not running those two screws i didnt like that tried it
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