Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

What size spur gear are we running on our TC6.x's? I'm wondering how small I can go on mine...I only need a gear range of 1.5-2:1, so if I go to a 72-tooth spur I'd need to "reach" a 36-48t pinion to make that range.

Thanks!

irvinew

So I changed out the diff oil; I was putting 40wt for low traction and I noticed I had no rubber gasket in there; must have fallen out.

I seem remember the diff case being problematic screwing together with the gasket in that groove. It just doesn't look symetrical or solid.

I don't seem to remember it leaking; do people use it? or am I just making a dumb mistake putting the diff housing together. I do screw the housing together slowly cross-wise.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

When I re-built one of these diffs, which was used and originally built by another racer. I thought he forgot to put the gasket in as well, but upon investigation, the gasket sits pretty deep into the grove and almost looks like its not there, but it is. I bought a replacement only to find that the gasket seated so deep in that grove it was looking like it was missing, stacking the second gasket in there made the diff impossible to re-assemble. Thats when I used a pick to discover the original gasket in place. So yours may be in there already as well.

Svendc

66t spur 44 pion gives ratio 3.0, if you dremel de motormount, i think its possible to place up to 50 pion. so 2.64 ratio
only done, if you want do a freaky speedrun

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Sounds like 48-pitch gearing. I installed an 88-tooth spur (the equivalent of your 66t spur in 64-pitch) and the 44T pinion needed to get 2.0:1 doesn't QUITE mesh enough. I'm sure some short work with my round needle file would get 'em close enough.

I should be clear I am aiming for spur/pinion ratio range of 1.75 - 2.0:1, NOT FDR. The FDR range I run (VTA) is always in the 3.5-4.0:1 range. I'm not looking for crazy low ratios for speed runs with my poor lil' 25.5 motor.

Maths for spur equivalents: people always seem to wonder how I do stuff like this. You set them up as proportions, cross-multiply, and solve for your unknown value...OR as works in practice, multiply the two known values that are "crossed", then divide that product by the remaining known value to find your unknown.

In this case I took my known combo and compared it to your combo that I didn't know the pitch for sure.

88/64 = 66/X...(64 x 66)/88 = X...X=48, so the 66t spur in 48p matches the 88t spur in 64p. OR you could just look at the numbers and note that 66 is 3/4 of 88, 48 is 3/4 of 64 so it works out.

Where this gets "handy" is now as I'm contemplating moving from the 64p gears I've used since '86 now to the Lee Speed 84p gears. I used the same proportional algorithm to find that I need a 115.5t (116) to replace the 88t spur. Instead of filing the slots to get a little closer mesh I can go up a touch since the Lee Speed spurs hit all the even numbers. A 116-58 combo would probably be "there", I'm pretty sure a 118-59 combo will be spot on.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi Scott, you might be able to make what you have there to work by just changing out the button head screws to cap screws. Just a thought.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Actually the relief for the head has a LITTLE more room to go, the screw is actually hitting it's shank on the end of he slot. For this reason, the head profile won't matter. I can PROBABLY make these work if I file the slot a little wider, and if the relief for the head bottomed out first you are absolutely correct that the rest of what movement is needed could be had by changing to a socket head motor screw.

I think I'll just go ahead with the 118-59 Lee Speed combination, though, and get gears that are JUST that little bit larger.

Scott

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Can the DCJ's be adapted to this combo with the TC5 arms, etc?

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Duplicate

jpx

I had to modify the TC5 c-hubs carefully, as the DCJ's would not have enough space.
Currently I'm using integy alu hubs which seem to be a bit wider at that point.
The rest is fine.

Svendc

keep on dreaming

Looks like the R&D departure of Team AE 'cars' is on the low budget.
If you look at yokomo, xray and other big brands, i think AE don't do it very well these days qua inovations of there cars...jus trying to keep up with mod. parts of other brands and cars is in my opinion not the way to go.
The only car who's doing very well in europe is the B5M, because they continue make the car better, stronger, without copying any other brand.

Best case senario in my opinion is, that the new car TC7 will be a good copy of a DB7? without make to many changes,

I hope i was wrong and they impress...

gtz

hobbs

iTrader: (32)

Track: asphalt / outdoor
Ambient temp: about 35C
Grip level: med to high
Class: 13.5 boosted

TC6.2 - almost stock setting except the followings:

1) raise motor mount & spur mount up 1mm (with 1mm shims below the 5 point mount)
I did this according to Chris Grainger's suggestion.
Objective is to get better front belt clearance over top deck.
Because this, top deck is raised up with 1mm at all 8 points

2) Front arm
front mount = 2 dot in
Rear mount = 3 dot in

3) Rear arm
front mount = 2 dot in
rear mount = 3 dot in

I used the above settings for sometime.

************************************************** ***********

With almost all settings remained, I changed only the followings:-

1) Stock arms to TC5 arms (hard), both front & rear.
** could not find any TC4 rear arms

2) Stock C hub to TC5 C hub

3) Stock upright to TC5 upright.

************************************************** ***********

Difference I noticed:-

1) Car became alive instantly, more active.
Somehow before the change, I always felt that the car was lazy / heavy to my liking.

2) Overall, lap times over a 5 min run is more consistent than before.
Best lap improved by about 0.2s

************************************************** ***********

Based on my study in this forum, I notice that some are running anti-dive (front arm).

I have been racing with 0 mm under all mount.
If I add in 0.5 mm under front arm rear mount ONLY (other mounts remain at 0mm), what could I expect???

Right now, I am thinking only changing the arms geometry / settings, to get the best out of this kit, what other recommendation do you have??

Thanks

S_fender

Hi,

With 0.5 mm Under front arm rear mount, there will be less front weight transfer off power. (a little less steering on corner entry)

Sébastien

irvinew

how full do people fill their gear diff of fluid?

I took the part (deeper half) and filled it level with the spool. I didn't weight it since my digital scale doesn't do mg. I would have bought one that did a fine measurement but I found this on the side walk while walking my dog lmao.

Should the gears be swimming in fluid? or should they just be nicely coated.


(Thanks Garry for pointing out the rookie gasket issue)

jha07

iTrader: (3)

I fill it so the cross pins are submerged, as stated in the instructions.