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Old 09-24-2015, 02:55 PM   #2281
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
It was $419.99 last week on amain....not it looks like its $419.97

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c30109/p271702
Amain is now 385 or something, you can go check it out, which you probably already did.

EDIT -- Good god, they jacked it back up to 419 today!!!! (Last night 12AM EST I still see 385). Just keep monitoring it.
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:57 PM   #2282
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I wouldn't say it has alot of flaws; everyone's precious expensive TRF419 leaks diff fluid for crying out loud. From the box it is quite competitive and better priced. The main item to look at getting better is the shocks. Good springs are crucial imo. If you work at setup theory then your ahead of the pack.

I wouldn't go aluminum; if the C-hub doesn't break then something else will; steering knuckles I hear. Go slow to go fast when your racing at first.

Getting a really good setup then perhaps look at other things if you think it will help.
ok got it. Shocks - I will look into first.

LOL about TRF419 leaks diff oil - I guess the TC 6.2 is not so bad after all
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:58 PM   #2283
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Funny thing in 2 years had to replace 1 part on my 6.2s bent a inner hing pin on front right side. I also took that advise and bought 2 packs each of arms chubs steering i believe they are gonna dry rot before i use them.
+1 on that; I have alot of parts that may never see the light of day. Sure C-hubs break but for racers I wouldn't recommend buying everything in site just because you think it will break. I think I replaced a front arm and rear arm in 2 years; Maybe 3 C-hubs. I'd get and extra set of arms and hubs; maybe belts. Even then I only replaced a belt because I made the rookie mistake of being sloppy with wiring and not batting down the hatches. But belts can break; funny I only have seen 2 belts break besides mine and they were both xray.

Keep in mind I only get to race twice a month; so having a small supply of replacement parts as mentioned might be the way to go.
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Last edited by irvinew; 09-24-2015 at 03:00 PM. Reason: ammending post.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:07 PM   #2284
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+1 on that; I have alot of parts that may never see the light of day. Sure C-hubs break but for racers I wouldn't recommend buying everything in site just because you think it will break. I think I replaced a front arm and rear arm in 2 years; Maybe 3 C-hubs. I'd get and extra set of arms and hubs; maybe belts. Even then I only replaced a belt because I made the rookie mistake of being sloppy with wiring and not batting down the hatches. But belts can break; funny I only have seen 2 belts break besides mine and they were both xray.

Keep in mind I only get to race twice a month; so having a small supply of replacement parts as mentioned might be the way to go.
come on , not the xray, i just bought the xray T4 2015......
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:26 PM   #2285
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come on , not the xray, i just bought the xray T4 2015......
lol; most cars on the track are xrays; I'm going to buy one too in the spring. meh; it can happen; however rarely.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:02 PM   #2286
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Who's the best contact to replace defective kit parts? One of my shock shafts has "sort of" threads, but they weren't cut at the right angle. Somewhere between forward and reverse threaded, close to neutral. Can't say I've seen that before.
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:04 PM   #2287
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The local hobbyshop you purchased from? If that doesn't work, call Don at AE's Customer Service line - explain your issue, and I'm sure he'll advise what to do from there.
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Old 10-02-2015, 08:46 AM   #2288
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Ok so..... what motor size is everyone running in these bad boys? I'm new to this TC class and I'll I've ever known was off road buggy's and SCT...... Someone... Anyone... Help... Lol
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:02 PM   #2289
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In On-Road (all 10th and 12th scale for that matter)the standard is 2 Pole 540 sized motors. The motors are identified by number of winds, rather than Kv. Depending on the class you are running, is the number of wind motor you need to purchase. For example USGT uses a 21.5 Turn Motor. In On-Road motor selection is more critical, don't just buy anything. Personally I have seen that Trinity based motors seem to have the edge right now over others, but other brands are starting to close the gap. However, go to your local track and ask which brand is popular, so that you can get some help with tuning your timing and ratio for the track.
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:24 PM   #2290
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Originally Posted by glennhl View Post
So does anyone run blue front and green rear springs (associated) on their TC6.2?
Most people run associated silver front and rear. I've also run green front and rear with great results. This is on asphalt. For carpet you want to run yokomo pink and blue
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:10 PM   #2291
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Depends on setup including shock oil weight.

Plenty of setups on the AE site to get you a good starting point.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:55 PM   #2292
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Depends on setup including shock oil weight.

Plenty of setups on the AE site to get you a good starting point.
very true; petitrc is up there; though I really wish people would post setup's that had a low traction carpet as the track type ran on.

not that its that big of a biggie; would be nice though.
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:17 PM   #2293
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our track hasn't been run on since the Southern Nationals...we are running this Sunday. Ill post my setup or changes for the low traction
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:40 PM   #2294
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just thought id share these pics of my new chassis plate 8)

ed
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-12064363_10153672880811703_1197974710_n.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-12077051_10153672880756703_1413223341_n.jpg  
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Old 10-06-2015, 04:00 PM   #2295
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Originally Posted by Edwin Pibal View Post
just thought id share these pics of my new chassis plate 8)

ed
Details Ed... who makes it?
Have you run it yet?
Etc.
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