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Old 09-01-2015, 08:05 AM   #2221
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Originally Posted by sublimize23 View Post
This is actually for the TC6.1 WC but probably applies to all, how much belt tension should there be? My car has some use so the belts are likely stretched a little, but I don't know about how much tension to set the tensioners too.
Tough question to answer; but I would look to your club members for input; aside; you'll know if it is too loose or tight. Going to petitrc off a spec sheet is your best bet.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:19 PM   #2222
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Tough question to answer; but I would look to your club members for input; aside; you'll know if it is too loose or tight. Going to petitrc off a spec sheet is your best bet.
I can explain what I prefer to do. Question... What class/motor do you plan to run?
That having been asked, you want to run the belts as loose as possible without causing belt skipping. Tight belts cause undue drag on the drivetrain. I usually start at front belt a little tight with the rear tires removed. I then hold the front wheels against the bench and then rotate the spur gear by pushing it with my thumb. The belt should not skip with reasonable force. You can now start to loosen the belt 1 step at a time and repeat the skipping steps as before. (once you get a good feel for how much force to use, this process can go faster) There is no need to tighten down the bearing caps at this point. Just lightly tension the four screws as you will be removing and replacing them frequently, at first. Keep repeating this process until you can get the belt to skip then go back 1 notch. Do the same for the rear and remove the front wheels as not to influence your tension test for the rear. (removing the front or rear tires will help to isolate the area to be tested)
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:11 AM   #2223
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Does anyone have a good set-up and/or starting point for asphalt oval? Our track is low/medium traction asphalt. 200 ft straights / 90 ft corners. The class is 10.5 blinky and rubber tires ... Other than that, no limits. Thank you.
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:29 PM   #2224
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Default TC6.2 Mid Build Question- Need Help

Hello all, I'm a little more than half through the chassis build on my Associated TC6.2 and noticed that after mounting the shocks the shock is quite loose on the upper mount. The lower portion of the shock that snaps onto the ball link is very solid. The blue anodized shock mount seems too small for the mounting hole of the top shock cap. Its almost like they included the wrong shock cap in this kit.

Otherwise my build is going well, I'm looking forward to the electronics install.

Has anyone run into this problem before or am I missing something entirely?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:18 PM   #2225
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Originally Posted by HK500Pilot View Post
Hello all, I'm a little more than half through the chassis build on my Associated TC6.2 and noticed that after mounting the shocks the shock is quite loose on the upper mount. The lower portion of the shock that snaps onto the ball link is very solid. The blue anodized shock mount seems too small for the mounting hole of the top shock cap. Its almost like they included the wrong shock cap in this kit.

Otherwise my build is going well, I'm looking forward to the electronics install.

Has anyone run into this problem before or am I missing something entirely?

Thanks for the help!


I'm not sure if this is your first build but shock is supposed to be able to move freely on the mount. After you install the button head screw tat secures the shock, check to see if you can twist a little to the left and right with the button head keeping the shock from popping forward, you want that free movement. Now see if the shock can move up and from that same point, you don't want that movement... take a pic or a small vid so we can see what you are talking about. I do hope I helped a little...
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:49 PM   #2226
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I'm not sure if this is your first build but shock is supposed to be able to move freely on the mount. After you install the button head screw tat secures the shock, check to see if you can twist a little to the left and right with the button head keeping the shock from popping forward, you want that free movement. Now see if the shock can move up and from that same point, you don't want that movement... take a pic or a small vid so we can see what you are talking about. I do hope I helped a little...

Thanks for the reply. This is not my first build. However, this is my first touring car build in about 6 years. I'm fortunate to have a new track coming to my area and I'm getting involved in racing once again, I couldn't be any more excited to get back into RC racing. I've been flying RC planes since 1979 and helicopters since 1989. I've previously built several 1/12th scale cars and 1/10th trucks and cars.

The shock cap will move side to side like you mention. However, it seems it is so loose that it will rattle. Movement up and down on the mount is very slight, but it is still there. I've never seen a shock so loose on its mount on any of my previous builds or cars I've had. I've double checked the instructions, its all pretty straight forward.

I'll just go with it as it is if this sounds like something normal.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:02 PM   #2227
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Default 64 Pitch Gearing Starting Point

Can someone reccomend a 64 pitch gearing starting point for the TC6.2? The car will be used on an indoor carpet track that will be quite large. I will be using a Tekin 17.5 motor.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:32 AM   #2228
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Originally Posted by HK500Pilot View Post
Can someone reccomend a 64 pitch gearing starting point for the TC6.2? The car will be used on an indoor carpet track that will be quite large. I will be using a Tekin 17.5 motor.
I always start from a FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of 4.0

100 spur 50 pinion = 4.0

96 spur 48 pinion = 4.0

Then I make adjustments from there depending on the track. The lower the number the more top end you will have and the higher the number the more bottom end you will have.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:37 AM   #2229
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Originally Posted by JustWill75 View Post
I always start from a FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of 4.0

100 spur 50 pinion = 4.0

96 spur 48 pinion = 4.0

Then I make adjustments from there depending on the track. The lower the number the more top end you will have and the higher the number the more bottom end you will have.
Thanks for the reply, this information is very helpful.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:09 PM   #2230
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Thumbs up 6 cent battery strap!

2 #64 rubber bands hold strong and allow easy battery swaps:
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-img_2671.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-img_2672.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-img_2673.jpg  
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:39 PM   #2231
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Originally Posted by bkfawcett View Post
2 #64 rubber bands hold strong and allow easy battery swaps:
The simplicity is what makes it cool...... But I'm afraid the rubber bands resistance or want to snap back may cause a lil tweak in you chassis. You may want to take the wheels off and place the car on a flat surface like you setup board or a glass. Tap on one end of the car front or rear and see if the car rocks. Do this with the battery in it..... If it rocks then you are tweaked and this can make your car harder to drive.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:25 PM   #2232
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Originally Posted by JustWill75 View Post
The simplicity is what makes it cool...... But I'm afraid the rubber bands resistance or want to snap back may cause a lil tweak in you chassis. You may want to take the wheels off and place the car on a flat surface like you setup board or a glass. Tap on one end of the car front or rear and see if the car rocks. Do this with the battery in it..... If it rocks then you are tweaked and this can make your car harder to drive.
samething I was think
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:12 PM   #2233
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Default 6 Cent Battery Strap

Yep! So, I'm going to check for tweak. It makes sense that the pull of the rubber bands may pull on the chassis, but I've been looking for something a little more elegant than Velcro or tape. [rant] I recall that my TC3, TC4, TC5 each had a simple strap or bar holding a sub-c stick pack in place with a couple of body clips, but coming up with a way to hold down a simple brick shaped lipo is still an afterthought... I'll try the new AE strap, but so far this car is running great this way for me! [/rant]
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:12 PM   #2234
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HI
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:13 PM   #2235
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http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31645/

The AE strap works great. I use it on all 3 cars. Never lost a battery either
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Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-1441860953855_resized.jpg  
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