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Old 07-17-2015, 06:47 AM   #2176
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Coming back to onroad after 5yr hiatus, anyone have a pic with shorty packpack like to see wow its mounted.i do have a idea on what i want to do
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:59 AM   #2177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castradamus View Post
I started from the outer most hole testing. Got comfortable with position 'C' and it seemed to give me consistent traction. I ran a modified version of a setup that Christian posted on the RSD thread. Here is mine:

Front:
Piston 3x1.15
Oil 32.5wt
Shock position OOXO OXOO
Arms: RSD "c" position
Suspension mounts:
FF: ( ..)(.. )
FR: ( ...)(... )
0.5mm under all suspension mounts

Spool
Yokomo Blue
Short camber link. 0 outside 2 mm inside
WB 1mm short from std.

Rear:
Piston 3x1.15
Oil 32.5wt
Shock position OXOO OOXO
Arms: RSD "c" position
Suspension mounts:
FR: ( . )( . )
FR: ( . )( . )
0.5mm under all mounts.
Yokomo Black
1000cst rear diff
Short links 2mm inside 1mm outside

Click Here for original
Thanks for the help....it'll get me at least started. A few more questions though.
What sway bars are you using?
Does your steering hub hit the NEW sway bar link before the steering locks out?
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:36 AM   #2178
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The sway bar links should act as your steering stips, but in case you want more throw you can replace the sway bar ball cups that come in the arm kit and use the std ones. In Place of the ball stud on the ball cup that attaches to the arm, use a set screw so you can attach the original ball end and pop it into the original sway bar ball. This will allow you to get a little more steering throw and some guys say it keeps the ball from popping off.

Personally, I tun AE Tc5 style sway bar mounts with xray 1.3 front sway bar in front and Spec R R1 1.2 rear bar in the back.

On springs, our new definitive spring set is awesome. For all of you that are converted to Yoke springs, these are worth a shot.
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:39 PM   #2179
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Thanks Christian! I'm just getting around to putting it all together and I haven't even thrown it down. I was assuming it'll still have enough steering with the links stopping it.
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:44 PM   #2180
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Yes, should be enough steering. The car rotates better, so it tends to need less lock.
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:09 AM   #2181
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Christian,

Can the springs you listed by used with the standard Associated rod ends and spring cups? I thought that Reflex went to 20mm springs for some reason a while back.

Scott
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Old 07-18-2015, 05:00 PM   #2182
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I've been struggling w/ my TC6.2 since I got it. Don Natale from Team Associated rebuilt things on it for me, and I was still struggling, mainly because I'm just NOT an on-road guy...so I'm learning the NEW car and driving 4wd cars in general. I have a couple old HPI Pro2's that I've driven (and still use for VTA), but at my last couple races, I made great headway into the 6.2 and my driving... It's starting to get FUN!
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Old 07-18-2015, 05:11 PM   #2183
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[QUOTE=SWTour;14100971]I've been struggling w/ my TC6.2 since I got it. Don Natale from Team Associated rebuilt things on it for me, and I was still struggling, mainly because I'm just NOT an on-road guy...so I'm learning the NEW car and driving 4wd cars in general. I have a couple old HPI Pro2's that I've driven (and still use for VTA), but at my last couple races, I made great headway into the 6.2 and my driving... It's starting to get FUN! [/QUOT

You have any of the suspension mods on it or did you go box stock?
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Old 07-18-2015, 06:39 PM   #2184
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from what I can tell, it's still box stock w/ team mods (prior to new part mods) --

Running med - med/high grip asphalt w/ GT Bodies and the Gravity R/C (USGT Spec) tires.
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Old 07-18-2015, 09:36 PM   #2185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
Christian,

Can the springs you listed by used with the standard Associated rod ends and spring cups? I thought that Reflex went to 20mm springs for some reason a while back.

Scott
They will need a bigger diameter bottom cup, at least. most people switch to Yokomo shock adjustment nuts and lower eyelets and spring perches. Our aluminum spring cups will work ok with the 14.0mm diameter springs, but they do get a little iffy on the bigger 14.2. This is a really worthy mod though, even if you just want to run Yokomo springs and HPI silvers for asphalt.

Additionally, we have our 6.2 springs, which are 13.5mm (now a lot of people are using the X Gear springs, which are also 13.5mm id) will bolt right on, but work better with our aluminum spring perches because they have a -1 offset, which allows you to use the standard turnbuckle eyelets AE switched to on the 6.2/6.1 and get you low enough ride height.

We only went to 20mm springs with our lowered towers on the TC6.1
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:18 AM   #2186
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Default Motor goes to part speed if you hit the steering too hard.

I just bought a used TC6.2, looks to be in excellent shape. I haven't run it yet, just getting it ready. Tonight I put on some DCV's in the front. The chattering at full lock went away. However, tonight I noticed if I turn to full lock very quickly with the motor at full speed, I get a click. Then occasionally the motor will actually "catch" and start running slower until I let completely off the throttle, hit the brake, and hit the throttle again, then it goes to full speed again.

I'm at a loss. I ran it and looked at the belts very closely, they are not rubbing. I also lowered the steering EPA so that the front steering is not even close to full lock. It still behaves the same. I also looked very closely at the steering and it's not hitting anywhere. I got my tried and true TC6.1 out and it does not act funny at all. I'm getting ready to start replacing electronics since I have spares of everything.

So has anyone else had this issue and if so, how did you fix it.

Thanks,
Glenn

EDIT: Update, I figured it out. First I plugged in another steering servo and the problem went away. The servo I plugged in was a slower standard SAVOX and I wanted to still use the faster Futaba 9451. So I plugged the Futaba servo into my TC6.1 and it worked fine. So I replaced the speed control (I had a spare Tekin RS). It worked fine with my faster Futaba servo, so I'm good to go except for a couple of hours of my life I'll never get back!

I'm going to replace the capacitor on the Tekin Speed Control I took out. I'm hoping that's all it is and I'll keep that as my spare.

Last edited by glennhl; 07-19-2015 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 07-19-2015, 04:13 PM   #2187
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Anyone looking for an as new as it gets TC 6.2(15 minutes on it) please send me a PM. I have one for sale at the link below, you won't be disappointed! thank you!

Team Associated TC 6.2
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:34 AM   #2188
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So what is the preferred body now,mostly carpet running but will go out doors
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:23 AM   #2189
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Pf MazdaSpeed 6 (not Gx) for Indoor and more technical Outdoor tracks and the Pf LTCR for Outdoor are the most used.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:30 AM   #2190
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I Remember a post about removing the screws that hold motor mount to spur gear bulkhead that it helps with flex on bumpy tracks or something has anyone tried this and what are the benefits
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