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Old 03-30-2015, 04:05 AM   #1936
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Talk to Don Natale at Associated (customer service) - he'll tell you what he does I'm sure... he did my car, and it's sweet.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:43 AM   #1937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macscac View Post
anyone using a velcro strap to hold their battery down...
what did you add to hold the straps front and back?
this glass tape is kind of a PITA to use and i don't want to carry the roll of it back and forth to the track
I have been using straps since TC5 days..I never could get the tape to work like others...no idea...but anyway the Hook and Loop kit from AE works flawless. Ive been using it since the release and have not lost a battery not once.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31645/
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:02 AM   #1938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macscac View Post
anyone using a velcro strap to hold their battery down...
what did you add to hold the straps front and back?
this glass tape is kind of a PITA to use and i don't want to carry the roll of it back and forth to the track
If you keep the tape clean, you shouldn't have to replace it so often.
Although it is a pain at times, it's still the best method for securing the battery.
I see batteries falling out of cars all too often when using the velcro straps but that's just my observation.

AE makes straps specifically for the TC6.2 if that's still the direction you want to go. I prefer the tape method as it has an adhesive attachment to the battery rather than just using tension to hold the battery in.

On the other hand, I also use my CF battery stay kit which secures the battery much better than the stock plastic bits.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:21 AM   #1939
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thanks for that link!
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:15 PM   #1940
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Tape can actually last longer than you think. If it begins to lose some of it's stickiness just spray a towel with motor spray and wipe it on the adhesive side of the tape. Cleans it off and makes it sticky again. I don't think I've ever ejected a battery while using tape.
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:58 PM   #1941
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Rick, or Juho, or Keven,

Can you please tell us what servo are you using ?

As the floating servo mount is just 20.5 mm height we can not use all the aitronics / Sanwa range ?
( 21 mm servo height )

Thank you for your help.

Fred
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:38 AM   #1942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredB View Post
Rick, or Juho, or Keven,

Can you please tell us what servo are you using ?

As the floating servo mount is just 20.5 mm height we can not use all the aitronics / Sanwa range ?
( 21 mm servo height )

Thank you for your help.

Fred
You can simply shim the mount up, the KO propo servo was a little tight, A 0.5mm shim lifted it up
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:46 AM   #1943
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I believe when Don put the velcro strap setup in my car, he said he shims up the battery braces which helps keep the battery in the car more securely. I can testify that I crash the heck out of my car at times..and that battery don't move w/ the velcro. (I was happy using the Tape and was able to get many re-uses from it, but the Velcro has been so much nicer/cleaner.)
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:14 AM   #1944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-kenny View Post
You can simply shim the mount up, the KO propo servo was a little tight, A 0.5mm shim lifted it up
This is actually a bit more difficult since the steering rack is attached to the servo mount however, if you have cut the servo mount top plate, shimming is easier. It's also better to shim the plate vs the servo mount block. You don't loose as much rigidity.
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Old 03-31-2015, 02:46 PM   #1945
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For the Sanwa servo question, I'm using the Sanwa ERS-971 with no modification at all.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:09 AM   #1946
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Why Different Gear Diff Builds TC6.1 VS TC6.2.

Just building a TC6.2. Also built an extra TC6.1 Gear Diff.

They appear to be exactly the same however,

The 6.2 does not use any shims on the outdrives (outside diff), but uses two inside (on the deep half) and one inside (on the cover).

They supply 4 shims (two of each).

Anyone know why they are saying to build them differently to the previous TC6 gear diffs.

EDIT:

I just downloaded the latest manual from the website. It differs from the printed manual that came with my Kit.

It says put one large and one smaller shim on the inside of the diff on each side.

They must be trying to reduce the width of the outdrives by a VERY small margin.

Anyone know why?.

Cheers.
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Last edited by El Nitro; 04-01-2015 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:22 AM   #1947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
For the Sanwa servo question, I'm using the Sanwa ERS-971 with no modification at all.
Thank you for your answer.

I know that 971 is just 20,2 mm height, but I found this servo has a lot of play !

Did you feel any influence of this play on your steering precision ?

Fred
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:27 AM   #1948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Nitro View Post
Why Different Gear Diff Builds TC6.1 VS TC6.2.

Just building a TC6.2. Also built an extra TC6.1 Gear Diff.

They appear to be exactly the same however,

The 6.2 does not use any shims on the outdrives (outside diff), but uses two inside (on the deep half) and one inside (on the cover).

They supply 4 shims (two of each).

Anyone know why they are saying to build them differently to the previous TC6 gear diffs.

EDIT:

I just downloaded the latest manual from the website. It differs from the printed manual that came with my Kit.

It says put one large and one smaller shim on the inside of the diff on each side.

They must be trying to reduce the width of the outdrives by a VERY small margin.

Anyone know why?.

Cheers.
I considered it a typo and built mine according to the TC6.1 manual. They work just fine. The only reason I can see adding both shims to the inside of the diff would be to tighten the gear mesh. If the smaller shim is put outside, I imagine that the shim will eliminate the outdrive contacting the plastic housing as well as supporting the outer O-ring seal. Hopefully Rick will chime in.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:42 PM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Nitro View Post
Why Different Gear Diff Builds TC6.1 VS TC6.2.

Just building a TC6.2. Also built an extra TC6.1 Gear Diff.

They appear to be exactly the same however,

The 6.2 does not use any shims on the outdrives (outside diff), but uses two inside (on the deep half) and one inside (on the cover).

They supply 4 shims (two of each).

Anyone know why they are saying to build them differently to the previous TC6 gear diffs.

EDIT:

I just downloaded the latest manual from the website. It differs from the printed manual that came with my Kit.

It says put one large and one smaller shim on the inside of the diff on each side.

They must be trying to reduce the width of the outdrives by a VERY small margin.

Anyone know why?.

Cheers.
The 6.1 build had the small shim outside and the large shim inside. Moving the small shim inside tightens the gear mesh in the diff removing some play between the gears. It is intended to remove slop and make the diff smoother.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:29 PM   #1950
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There have been a few people that stripped diffs with the original shimming so it was adjusted to make it full tight, all shims inside.
My new way is to build the diff with all the shims inside, assemble the diff with no lube then feel it. Normally I will move 1 shim back to the outside but not always. It really is just a feel for how all the gears mesh.
I do think that the old way, 2 out and 2 in, is probably loose but if you run 17.5t most likely it will never hurt the diff.
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