3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
03-20-2015, 11:47 AM
#1906
Has anyone had any luck placing ships on the pin that holds the front castor blocks to reduce the crazy amount of slop it has by following the kit build? there is a lot of play along the pin when u push the castors fwd and back
Also would the old TC6 caster blocks that dont have the inserts reduce slop as well?
Also would the old TC6 caster blocks that dont have the inserts reduce slop as well?
I'm using the Tuning Haus aluminum C-hubs and rear carriers. They have a set screw that locks down on the hinge pin and eliminate a lot of slop. The front however does increase in slop over time as the hinge pin will slide back and forth in the arm, in spite of the pin being locked to the C-hub. I have been wanting to shim this out, but have no shims thin enough, but plan to get some at the LHS.
The Rears are solid still.
03-20-2015, 08:39 PM
#1907
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
The steering turnbuckle that hooks to the ball stud on the wheel
Has anyone mounted that ball stud on the underneath instead of the top?
Seems like it would be a better way instead of that steep angle from underneath the top chassis deck.
Has anyone tried this?
Has anyone mounted that ball stud on the underneath instead of the top?
Seems like it would be a better way instead of that steep angle from underneath the top chassis deck.
Has anyone tried this?
03-20-2015, 09:11 PM
#1908
umm i think you might have the L & R steering knuckets on backwards? my tie-rods are pretty much LEVEL... ??
03-21-2015, 04:40 AM
#1911
The instructions indicate to use the yellow (1.1mm) in the front and the white (0.9mm) in the back. I would just go with this until you feel you really need to explore this more and try other thicknesses or tuning options.
Last edited by ViperZ; 03-21-2015 at 05:36 AM. Reason: typo
03-22-2015, 12:56 PM
#1912
if you do not want to invest in the TH aluminum hubs...here is what I do..
take the c-hub and body reamer. make a small hole in the center bottom of the c-hub. be careful not to make it to large or slip and poke your hand. make sure it comes out to the other side where the hinge pin will be.
next take a set screw and thread it into the hole made by the reamer. make sure its secure and tight.
then put it all together. if you have issues with breaking hubs...I suggest making up a few for quick change.....I also suggest the same for different degree hubs.
also make sure you CA glue the inserts for different degree, it also helps reduce slop.
take the c-hub and body reamer. make a small hole in the center bottom of the c-hub. be careful not to make it to large or slip and poke your hand. make sure it comes out to the other side where the hinge pin will be.
next take a set screw and thread it into the hole made by the reamer. make sure its secure and tight.
then put it all together. if you have issues with breaking hubs...I suggest making up a few for quick change.....I also suggest the same for different degree hubs.
also make sure you CA glue the inserts for different degree, it also helps reduce slop.
03-22-2015, 02:36 PM
#1914
c-hub set screw + binding?
thx for the tips, this is by far the biggest frustration with the car is the front end C-hub play, other than that this car is rock solid for harsh mod touring outdoor.
Will adding the set screw cause binding because the C-hub is not longer free to pivot on the pin?
Will adding the set screw cause binding because the C-hub is not longer free to pivot on the pin?
03-22-2015, 03:14 PM
#1915
That is what happened when I did this mod. But you can losen the setscrew a bit and achieve a compromise between slop and binding... In the end this mod is useless with the original parts. Just live with the slop. As soon as the car is moving on its own the suspension will be under tension because of the geometry (like in your 1:1 car) and the slop will be gone. Who thinks he is faster by removing the "normal" slop is wrong.
I did intensive comparison drives with the 6.2 and the T4'15 and I am faster with the 6.2. So believe me the slop we experience here is overrated
I did intensive comparison drives with the 6.2 and the T4'15 and I am faster with the 6.2. So believe me the slop we experience here is overrated
03-22-2015, 05:42 PM
#1916
Its funny how some of us will obsess over .5mm amounts in toe, camber, caster, droop, non symmetrical custom shock valving...etc, then say fuggetabout the 1-2mm slop of the front end, seems all for not 
I only wished I were good enough to know it affects me
I only wished I were good enough to know it affects me
03-22-2015, 07:28 PM
#1918
the factory guys have been doing it for quite some time now....
03-22-2015, 11:48 PM
#1920
Nevertheless I tend to agree with WTCC ... I could not experience, that I'm faster when eliminating the slope.
At the same time, my rear A-arm has quite a lot of slop on the hingpin, although there is no space between the shims or mountings. The hole in the A-arm just seems to big or the hingepin to have too less diameter.
I has the same problem on the front arm and C-hub on my TC6.1. Using the old hingepin of my TC5 elimiatetd the slope ...
In any case we should allways keep in mind (especially when using the screews or shimming any slope), that binding is worse than slope!