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Old 03-06-2015, 04:52 AM   #1831
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Originally Posted by macscac View Post
viperz,
few questions..
one, what size motor is that? 13.5 or 17.5?
what size spur and pinion are you using and what pitch?
finally, is that a fan behind the motor?
Hi macscac, the motor is a Trinity D4 17.5. I'm currently running a 64 pitch gearing with a 47T pinon and 97T Spur for a final drive of 4.13. Our home track is small with a ~50ft straight.

Yes, that is a Orca 25mm aluminum housing fan behind the motor, its actually pretty quiet for the amount of air it moves.

Let me know if you have anymore questions, I'd be happy to answer.

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Old 03-08-2015, 03:12 AM   #1832
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Default TC6.2 help!

Hi Guys need some advise please this issue has me stumped.

I have a 6.2 with with various mods including

reflex racing lower shock towers
reflex lightweight arm kit
associated DJ driveshaft's

I run a front gear diff. my issue is the right hand side the driveshaft is about short about 2mm and is sticking out of the outdrive and is wobbling because its on the outer edge.



the left is fine, its inside the outdrive and spins normally.



I was running arm spacers with 2 outer dots but have change to single centre dot with the same problem. I have swapped driveshaft's from left to right with the same problem, I have changed diffs and have the same issue. I put reflex racing dcj's in and they do the same thing too. For the life of me I can not figure it out hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Last edited by jonston; 03-08-2015 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 03-08-2015, 06:56 AM   #1833
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Originally Posted by jonston View Post
Hi Guys need some advise please this issue has me stumped.

I have a 6.2 with with various mods including

reflex racing lower shock towers
reflex lightweight arm kit
associated DJ driveshaft's

I run a front gear diff. my issue is the right hand side the driveshaft is about short about 2mm and is sticking out of the outdrive and is wobbling because its on the outer edge.



the left is fine, its inside the outdrive and spins normally.



I was running arm spacers with 2 outer dots but have change to single centre dot with the same problem. I have swapped driveshaft's from left to right with the same problem, I have changed diffs and have the same issue. I put reflex racing dcj's in and they do the same thing too. For the life of me I can not figure it out hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
Some DCJ's run a narrow inner hub bearing. Any chance you are running one of these on one side but not the other?
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:14 AM   #1834
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^^^ Good Point, check that you have the same thickness inner bearing on both sides. The DCV bearing is 5x10x3, where as the non DVC is a 5x10x4.
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Old 03-08-2015, 12:10 PM   #1835
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What arms are you using?
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Old 03-08-2015, 02:19 PM   #1836
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Originally Posted by jonston View Post
Hi Guys need some advise please this issue has me stumped.

I have a 6.2 with with various mods including

reflex racing lower shock towers
reflex lightweight arm kit
associated DJ driveshaft's

I run a front gear diff. my issue is the right hand side the driveshaft is about short about 2mm and is sticking out of the outdrive and is wobbling because its on the outer edge.

the left is fine, its inside the outdrive and spins normally.

I was running arm spacers with 2 outer dots but have change to single centre dot with the same problem. I have swapped driveshaft's from left to right with the same problem, I have changed diffs and have the same issue. I put reflex racing dcj's in and they do the same thing too. For the life of me I can not figure it out hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
Seems like the diff isn't centered for some reason. Right side outdrive slot bottom is in line with cam holder but left side has ~1mm or so from the bottom to cam holder.

Also with the standard arms driveshafts are deeper in the slot than in the left side photo. Lightweight arms might be slightly longer than the original ones?
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:00 PM   #1837
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Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
I swapped out my Tekin RS G2 ESC, to an Orca VX3. I can't wait to feel the smoother gradual throttle response versus the digital on/off the Tekins are said to have.





Hi Viper is that the reflex chassi and lower shock towers as well as a few other reflex parts
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:51 PM   #1838
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Default can you say fragile?

let me start by saying that i have been a loyal AE owner for most of my 35+ years of rc racing (on and off road) only other TC was a 007 xray.

this weekend at our (largest indoor On-Road series in N America) WCICS race in Kamloops BC (2nd last event in the series) my new 6.2 (2nd race weekend after the long time with 5, 6.1, 6.1w), the car broke 4x in 1 weekend. All in the front end.

all parts were Associated... DCVD... broke in the dog bone stub to the coupler. 2x caster block, 1x suspension arm (just at the rear of the arm at the inner U by the sway bar bolt.

i admit i am not an A main driver, but with a good weekend i can make the B or top of the C main. i drive consistently and push when the car feels good. I get allot of help from my friends who ARE A main drivers (all Xray or Awsomatics... booooo!)

so.... what do i need to BUY to make my 6.2 strong and fast? i read some are adapting tc4 and 5 parts?? why is RSD parts on so many AE cars?

has it come to that AE touring cars require 50% up-grades from NON-AE companies?

I wonder how many AE parts are on Kevin Hebert's car???

i want to stay with AE... been here for a looooong time. HELP ME!
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Last edited by BulletMan; 03-08-2015 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #1839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BulletMan View Post
let me start by saying that i have been a loyal AE owner for most of my 35+ years of rc racing (on and off road) only other TC was a 007 xray.

this weekend at our (largest indoor On-Road series in N America) WCICS race in Kamloops BC (2nd last event in the series) my new 6.2 (2nd race weekend after the long time with 5, 6.1, 6.1w), the car broke 4x in 1 weekend. All in the front end.

all parts were Associated... DCVD... broke in the dog bone stub to the coupler. 2x caster block, 1x suspension arm (just at the rear of the arm at the inner U by the sway bar bolt.

i admit i am not an A main driver, but with a good weekend i can make the B or top of the C main. i drive consistently and push when the car feels good. I get allot of help from my friends who ARE A main drivers (all Xray or Awsomatics... booooo!)

so.... what do i need to BUY to make my 6.2 strong and fast? i read some are adapting tc4 and 5 parts?? why is RSD parts on so many AE cars?

has it come to that AE touring cars require 50% up-grades from NON-AE companies?

I wonder how many AE parts are on Kevin Hebert's car???

i want to stay with AE... been here for a looooong time. HELP ME!
Get the rsd front bumper and cut axles flush with wheel nuts and you won't break parts anymore. Kevin Hebert tests parts for rsd. He runs their aluminum chassis sometimes. Rsd makes great products but tc6.2 is more then capable out of the box. I run rsd. Bumper and shock pistons and bladders also springs. That's all you need.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:24 PM   #1840
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Originally Posted by 2056dennis View Post
Hi Viper is that the reflex chassi and lower shock towers as well as a few other reflex parts
Hey Dennis, no those are stock parts. The Reflex parts are shock bladders, O-Rings, 3 hole pistons, Aluminum Spool drives. I have been considering purchase of a RDS7 for our new USGT class, however 'm holding out that AE may release a new car soon.

Bulletman, I feel your pain. I broke many c-hubs until I upgraded to the tuning Haus aluminum ones. They do take a bit of work to work cleanly. I have broken an axle on the DCV, broken the delrin spool outdrives, rear A Arm and bent the hinge pin, but thought more because I'm not a clean driver...
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:51 PM   #1841
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Some DCJ's run a narrow inner hub bearing. Any chance you are running one of these on one side but not the other?
Yeah im running the 3mm bearing that your suppose too with dcj's i think if i didnt i wouldnt be able to stick the pin thru for the wheel hex.

ill investigate the diff more tonight. and will ask Christian about arm length

thanks guys
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:46 PM   #1842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonston View Post
Hi Guys need some advise please this issue has me stumped.

I have a 6.2 with with various mods including

reflex racing lower shock towers
reflex lightweight arm kit
associated DJ driveshaft's

I run a front gear diff. my issue is the right hand side the driveshaft is about short about 2mm and is sticking out of the outdrive and is wobbling because its on the outer edge.



the left is fine, its inside the outdrive and spins normally.



I was running arm spacers with 2 outer dots but have change to single centre dot with the same problem. I have swapped driveshaft's from left to right with the same problem, I have changed diffs and have the same issue. I put reflex racing dcj's in and they do the same thing too. For the life of me I can not figure it out hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
I suggest to measure from the outside of your outdrives to the bulkhead on both sides.
If it's the same, the mistake has to be somewhere around arms, hubs, axles.
If it's not the same, it should be your diff.
(I expect the bulkhead to be centerd correctly on the chassis )
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:53 AM   #1843
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check your shims on the bulkhead as well as caster camber....

also sometimes a simple tear down will correct the issue. When I run into stuff like this, I find that taking the issue apart and re-building it is the solution.

AE 6.2 breakage, like any high end TC...hit the board/wall and you may break parts...what class are you running?...if you are running 17.5 or faster the RSD hard bumper is the simple fix. You can also narrow the front as well as the rear so the arms are not sticking out as far. This is good as well until you get a better handle on the car/setup/driving

NOTE: AE car is very very good out the box with the box setup. No upgrades are needed the only time I would consider any upgrades is after you can make good laps without hitting the boards/walls.
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:48 PM   #1844
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AE 6.2 breakage, like any high end TC...hit the board/wall and you may break parts...what class are you running?...if you are running 17.5 or faster the RSD hard bumper is the simple fix. You can also narrow the front as well as the rear so the arms are not sticking out as far. This is good as well until you get a better handle on the car/setup/driving

NOTE: AE car is very very good out the box with the box setup. No upgrades are needed the only time I would consider any upgrades is after you can make good laps without hitting the boards/walls.
thanks for the replies.
i run 17.5 blinky with handout tires (sweep 32) my lap times are consistent and clean (usually ) top 15 laps are in the .1 to .2 spread.
as with stock being super competitive i need to be tight to the boards. i don't usually tap OUT! i guess i am frustrated by the X cars bouncing off the walls with no damage.

does the RSD021-4 work with the associated DJC coupler & axle?
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Old 03-09-2015, 03:34 PM   #1845
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Are you running a spool or a diff in the front ?

when I ran a spool the DCVDs I used to blow them apart on our long sweeping corner, changed out the spool to a diff with 300K oil and have never blown one since

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