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Old 01-25-2015, 11:57 PM   #1741
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
As for running front arms in the rear I'd definitely modify the shock mounting position and same for the swaybar mounting position.

Here's how I cut my servo mount, was just trying to make it look as clean as I could.

Definitely looks clean to me!
Thanks a lot!!!
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:56 AM   #1742
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As for running front arms in the rear I'd definitely modify the shock mounting position and same for the swaybar mounting position.
No need to make it difficult. Just measure the shock mounting position from the rear arms and drill a 2.5mm hole for the ballstud. The swaybar has the same position so no need to do anything there...
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:30 AM   #1743
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Hi Randy

would it be possible to post a pic of where the tc4 rear arms sit in the arm mounts ?

I cant quite tell how far forward or back it is.

thank you
I have 5mm spacing in front and 9.5mm behind them. Stock up on shims
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:32 AM   #1744
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Definitely looks clean to me!
Thanks a lot!!!
Thanks and no problem!
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:01 PM   #1745
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Decided to take some time to try and help everyone out with building your gear diffs! I was lucky enough to be running for Serpent when they introduced the first one into a competition TC and it was pretty cool being able to pass the other racers with ball diffs right off the grid! The downside to gear diffs is that you can't just loosen or tighten a screw and have a different feel, ideally you want to have a few built up for different track conditions. One thing that few people pay attention to is making sure that you build it the same way every time! If you have a diff full of 3k oil it can have a thicker feel than the same diff half full of 5k oil. Take a little extra time here and it will pay off.

A good condition used diff is going to feel better than a brand new diff. One of the 3 I'm putting together here is used, I am replacing the pins and shims (31348) and the o-rings and diff seal (31349) because the diff still feels great but I want fresh oil. Keeping the bevel gears for as long as you can doesn't hurt because they are now fully broken in and will be as smooth as you can get them.

If you are building a new diff take a moment to cut off the small amount of material on the back of the gears left from the original moulding tree, you want the back to be perfectly flat.

When installing the outdrives, rub some black grease over the shaft after installing the small o-ring that sits in the groove, make sure to apply the grease across the whole shaft so that you don't damage the larger o-ring when installing the outdrive into the diff housing.

Even before running for AE I have been using their shock and diff oils. Inconsistency has always been an issue with oil, but I trust that Lucas Oil is going to do a good job of making sure consistency stays the same from bottle to bottle over time, and that's who supplies AE's oils.

Get everything installed and fill the main housing with oil to the top, turn the outdrive a bit to help guide the oil down and then refill to the top. At this point I put the diff into a shock air pump and pressurize it to remove any trapped air. You'll have to do this a few times and as air pumps out just keep refilling the oil to the top of the diff housing.



After repeating a few times you can see that my diff is full of oil with as little air as possible.



I push the last gear into the others in the main housing and line up the pin slot with the pin on the second half of the outdrive. I also fill up that second half with oil right about level with the metal shim.



Assemble your diff and tighten the screws in a star pattern and try to get them all tightened down with the same amount of pressure so the gear doesn't wobble and the diff doesn't leak.

Now here's the crucial step that often goes overlooked. Weigh your diffs! As you can see this one comes in at 22.3 grams, and this is exactly what I will build the others to. Take your time and get them as close to each other in weight as possible. Any diffs you build for your 6.2 from here on should have the same weight as the one you just built. (Unless the materials are changed which is still no biggie, just build up a new benchmark diff for yourself.)



These 3 are ready for the track!



P.S. sorry for the crappy lighting, hope this is still helpful for everyone!
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:05 PM   #1746
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BTW, the scale I'm using in the picture was around $15 on Amazon, it weighs all the way down to 1/100 of a gram. You'll find similar ones sold from RC vendors with about $25 worth of screen printing added to them
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:34 PM   #1747
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I have 5mm spacing in front and 9.5mm behind them. Stock up on shims


thank you!
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:28 PM   #1748
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P.S. sorry for the crappy lighting, hope this is still helpful for everyone!
Of course it's helpful!!!
+1
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:46 AM   #1749
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Thanks for taking the time to write this and take pictures. Much appreciated. Every little bit helps
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:07 AM   #1750
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Adding to what Randy said, be aware that the main diff 0-ring behaves like a shock o-ring. By this I mean that it will swell over time and which causes the diff action to tighten. Even if your diff isn't leaking, it is a good idea to replace the o-rings from time to time so that the diff action remains consistent. I replace my o-rings before every event.
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:27 PM   #1751
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thanks
got work to do tonight...
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:50 PM   #1752
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Got this in PM but figured it might be helpful to post on here:

"I'm presuming that it's a panaracer / xenon spur on your TC6.2?? Have you done anything about the fact that the centre boss of the spur is thinner than the AE spur??

If you just screw everything together, there's a gap of around 0.8mm (from memory!) between the spur boss and the belt pulley which I figured in some way could be an issue. Have you done anything about this or just let it be like that?"

I am using the Panaracer gear, haven't run it yet but I have heard great things. The center boss is thinner than the kit gear by about .7mm, I tried mounting it as is but things just didn't line up well. I placed 3 .5mm shims between the spur gear and aluminum plate that the screws pass through, that seemed to take care of everything. Just very important to make sure all 3 screws are tightened evenly since that aluminum plate is no longer in contact with the spur itself.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:54 PM   #1753
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Adding to what Randy said, be aware that the main diff 0-ring behaves like a shock o-ring. By this I mean that it will swell over time and which causes the diff action to tighten. Even if your diff isn't leaking, it is a good idea to replace the o-rings from time to time so that the diff action remains consistent. I replace my o-rings before every event.
That's a great point that I forgot to address.
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:16 PM   #1754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Got this in PM but figured it might be helpful to post on here:

"I'm presuming that it's a panaracer / xenon spur on your TC6.2?? Have you done anything about the fact that the centre boss of the spur is thinner than the AE spur??

If you just screw everything together, there's a gap of around 0.8mm (from memory!) between the spur boss and the belt pulley which I figured in some way could be an issue. Have you done anything about this or just let it be like that?"

I am using the Panaracer gear, haven't run it yet but I have heard great things. The center boss is thinner than the kit gear by about .7mm, I tried mounting it as is but things just didn't line up well. I placed 3 .5mm shims between the spur gear and aluminum plate that the screws pass through, that seemed to take care of everything. Just very important to make sure all 3 screws are tightened evenly since that aluminum plate is no longer in contact with the spur itself.
Panaracer sells a spur gear spacer that takes care of this. It is usually available at our store, however I think we are sold out. We should have more at week's end or early next week.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:16 PM   #1755
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Good to see all the pros here with support!

I run the Panaracer Spurs and yes they are thinner. I made two shims, one for each side out of .5mm styrene sheet. Use a body reamer to make the shaft hole first. Then slip the aluminum flange into the shim for a size template drawing around it To get the diameter. Lastly mark the 3 holes for mounting and you're done. Just don't use the OEM shims and it's good.

I may order the panaracer shims when RDS gets them I stock as well as a Muslo body, but the homemade shims work well.

here is my repost

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I received most of my order of gears from Reflex Racing! I tell you, that place is like Crack Cocaine for a AE owner & Driver

I got the 64P's I've been wanting to convert over to. Really nice Panaracers. The pinions are nicely detailed with a clean beveled edge on both sides. The Spur gears looked of nice quality, however they were slightly thinner than the OEM AE gear by about 1.5mm. I had to make 2 shims out of 0.5mm styrene sheet, and not use the OEM shims.

I forgot to take a picture of the shims before I buttoned it up. However if you look close at the last picture, you can see it there.



OEM shims not used


Look close and you can see my homemade shims, made at the LHS (Hobby World) with Ryan, while I was looking for a solution.
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