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Old 12-21-2014, 10:50 AM   #1651
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Ah yes; racers now being paid. I guess I come from an era where comic books were 75 cents; Racers raced for free and Joel Johnson we all figured was a some sort of cardboard photograph standing in front of a trinity motor; not sure why we thought that joke was funny but anyways... thanks for your help on the droop; way easier to calculate and the car was awesome on the track; handled I felt way better than before. Isn't it easier though to forget the 10mm blocks and just rest the chassis on the setup board? 24mm in the rear, 25 in the front?

Viperz: your right... my car was very under geared. I upped it to a low 4 fdr and it is alot more responsive; mind you I am testing the rsd chassis on it too.
At some point the top racers need to be paid otherwise they would all have normal jobs and not be able to attend any of the races that they do. We all benefit from it though, those same drivers are also responsible for most of the R&D testing on the cars, without their feedback we would be a long way off of the cars that we have available today.

The only reason I use the 10mm blocks is that it's just easier to get the car flat. Otherwise you have to clean off the chassis and pit board before setting it down, on my car the rear pulley actually protrudes from the chassis a slight bit so it doesn't sit flat on a setup board anyway.
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Old 12-21-2014, 11:11 AM   #1652
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Default Piston options

Hi guys,

Apologies if my question has already been covered, but I'm setting up my 6.2 chassis for asphalt racing and I am building my shocks, so here's my question:

Should I use the 2 hole or 3 hole piston? Where I am considering using 400 oil for front and 300 oil rear. As the front would be 'stiffer', should this be a different piston than the rear?

Many thanks and I look forward to your recommendations.
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Old 12-21-2014, 12:11 PM   #1653
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Hi guys,

Apologies if my question has already been covered, but I'm setting up my 6.2 chassis for asphalt racing and I am building my shocks, so here's my question:

Should I use the 2 hole or 3 hole piston? Where I am considering using 400 oil for front and 300 oil rear. As the front would be 'stiffer', should this be a different piston than the rear?

Many thanks and I look forward to your recommendations.
Check out some of the setups on the AE website for asphalt tracks. Your oil selection seems like it's going to be very soft, I am running AE 42.5wt (538cst) with 3x1.1 hole pistons currently.
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Old 12-21-2014, 01:01 PM   #1654
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Thanks Randy, good steer! I'll review the AE site and see what their drivers are using.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:38 AM   #1655
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At some point the top racers need to be paid otherwise they would all have normal jobs and not be able to attend any of the races that they do. We all benefit from it though, those same drivers are also responsible for most of the R&D testing on the cars, without their feedback we would be a long way off of the cars that we have available today.

The only reason I use the 10mm blocks is that it's just easier to get the car flat. Otherwise you have to clean off the chassis and pit board before setting it down, on my car the rear pulley actually protrudes from the chassis a slight bit so it doesn't sit flat on a setup board anyway.

I did see a video once where Gilles G also used the 10mm blocks and made it clear that the block if possible not be put under a screw since some screws may not be flush with the under carriage.

Oh yes I know the top racers need to get paid and should; I'm sorry if I implied something; just a generational observation from when I was a kid.

You method of calculating droop with a caliper is way more precise and easy so thanks. My VTA TC6 car was not calculated with this method; the measurement is way different; I'm not sure why that is; is there a different value for the TC6 vrs the TC6.2; can't see why there would be.
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Old 12-24-2014, 05:57 PM   #1656
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I did see a video once where Gilles G also used the 10mm blocks and made it clear that the block if possible not be put under a screw since some screws may not be flush with the under carriage.

Oh yes I know the top racers need to get paid and should; I'm sorry if I implied something; just a generational observation from when I was a kid.

You method of calculating droop with a caliper is way more precise and easy so thanks. My VTA TC6 car was not calculated with this method; the measurement is way different; I'm not sure why that is; is there a different value for the TC6 vrs the TC6.2; can't see why there would be.
No need to apologize, wasn't trying to get on your case about it, just saying how the paid guys aren't a bad thing.

The TC6.2 is my first AE car so I don't know too much about the TC6, but the droop setting would get a different reading if the older hubs had the axle in a higher or lower position than the 6.2. This is why the caliper method works so well, doesn't matter what car or what hubs, you will always be able to get the same droop. The only things that can change the amount of droop you have is tire diameter and ride height.
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Old 01-03-2015, 12:50 PM   #1657
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Default RSD Light weight suspension kit ???

I recently purchased the RSD Light Weight suspension arm kit for my TC6.2 and have a couple questions...
Is anyone else using this kit & what settings did you end up with as far as location of the arms forward or back? Wheelbase adjustment?
What shock settings?
The steering knuckles hit the swaybar end links.. any cure for this?

I just haven't seen any feedback on this kit, good or otherwise.

Thanks

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Old 01-03-2015, 05:11 PM   #1658
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I'm running the kit as follows:
Front arm- 1 of the 3mm spacer on the back side of the arm, fill in on the front side.
Rear arm - 2 of the 1mm spacers on the front side of the arm, fill in on the back side

Steering arms I use the outside hole and trimmed the inside of the arm for the end link clearance, it doesn't take much.
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:47 PM   #1659
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I'll give your settings a try.
Are you happy with the kit after running the stock setup?

CG3
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:47 PM   #1660
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I can't say. I went from a TC6.1 to this TC6.2 w/RSD7 aluminum chassis & lightweight kit.

Charlie (cmunro) set this car up and ran it at RSD Speedway. He is fast!!! I got it from him.
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:23 PM   #1661
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Originally Posted by chipgibbs View Post
I recently purchased the RSD Light Weight suspension arm kit for my TC6.2 and have a couple questions...
Is anyone else using this kit & what settings did you end up with as far as location of the arms forward or back? Wheelbase adjustment?
What shock settings?
The steering knuckles hit the swaybar end links.. any cure for this?

I just haven't seen any feedback on this kit, good or otherwise.

Thanks

CG3
works very well for me

TQ and win last weekend.
, I have modified front sway bar links ,and cut the back hole off the steering arm, tc6.2 front caster blocks. 4mm behind front arm, 6mm behind rear arms. if you hit the wall make sure you check your pins they will bend easier. car is very predictable and handles very well. I do not like the alloy chassis, the factory noodle carbon drives best for me especially as the bite comes up.
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Old 01-05-2015, 04:12 PM   #1662
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Nice to know at least 3 people have bought this kit and are happy.
Thanks for the input.

CG3
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Old 01-05-2015, 06:57 PM   #1663
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here you can watch it run

http://youtu.be/j_sMq9et1SQ
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:48 AM   #1664
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works very well for me

TQ and win last weekend.
, I have modified front sway bar links ,and cut the back hole off the steering arm, tc6.2 front caster blocks. 4mm behind front arm, 6mm behind rear arms. if you hit the wall make sure you check your pins they will bend easier. car is very predictable and handles very well. I do not like the alloy chassis, the factory noodle carbon drives best for me especially as the bite comes up.
Good Run.
I have tried it also. Not a fan of the sway bar hitting the steering. Very consistent and adjustable.
+1 on the spacing
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Old 01-06-2015, 02:19 PM   #1665
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works very well for me

TQ and win last weekend.
, I have modified front sway bar links ,and cut the back hole off the steering arm, tc6.2 front caster blocks. 4mm behind front arm, 6mm behind rear arms. if you hit the wall make sure you check your pins they will bend easier. car is very predictable and handles very well. I do not like the alloy chassis, the factory noodle carbon drives best for me especially as the bite comes up.
You are referring to the RSD Alloy chassis? Can I assume from your opinion that carbon rsd or carbon associated works better for you anyway on carpet?

For the TC6.2 specifically does alloy always work better on asphalt?
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