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Old 11-27-2014, 07:39 AM   #1591
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3 quick questions; setting up ride height and droop.

Whenever I'm setting ride height; invariably I get different answers each time I double check my work. I'm wondering if when I'm setting my TC6.2 on the hudy board I'm not letting it settle correctly; At first I just press down each end and then adjust accordingly. I'm wondering if I have to press each end of the car down a few times and then adjust the spring collars appropriately.

What do other people do?

I'm using the AE ride height guage, should I just break down and get the stepped hudy one? I do have the graduated one.

Also setting the droop settings; I do it by eye as I think alot of people do; looking at the droop set screws, lifting up the chassis slightly until the scews hit the chassis.

There is this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYLvImYUBt4

Gills here uses the hudy setup blocks and droop guage; is that the way to go? or is my way (I assume most peoples) the easier way.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:48 PM   #1592
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Hi Irvin,

When ever I set-up ride height, I will always press down on the front and back of the car to make sure it's set. After each adjustment and turn of the collar, I will press down on the front and back shock towers again before making a measurement.

I use a Dynamite and Integy gauge. The Dynamite is a precision gauge in that it measures 0.5mm increments, and is a straight ramp on the other side. The Integy ride height & droop gauge measures in 1mm increments. For droop I use EDS 10mm blocks in conjunction with the Integy droop gauge. It sets-up really well and I prefer this way with blocks.

I find my adjustments don't deviate at all during set-up and after running.
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Old 11-27-2014, 11:36 PM   #1593
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Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
Thanks! It was good to race with your club and meet new people!

I think the slop is less important as we make it out to be.. But I'm just a club racer, and can't discern between the .003 lap difference it may make.




What did you do to fix the binding of the hub to steering black on the bottom screw? I think I may have to remove a bit of metal...

During the race this Sunday in practice, I hit a car that was stopped on the straightaway, it resulted in a broken C-Hub.. This got me thinking if I had the Aluminum on in, it would not have broke, but then I wonder what else would have broke. As it was it was simple to replace, but had it been the A Arm that broke, that would have been more of a paint to replace I think...



I was looking at a Reedy Black Box for my W-GT as it does 1s....

Good thing you had that bumper brace on! Lol
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:37 AM   #1594
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Good thing you had that bumper brace on! Lol
For real!
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Old 11-29-2014, 03:32 AM   #1595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
Hi Irvin,

When ever I set-up ride height, I will always press down on the front and back of the car to make sure it's set. After each adjustment and turn of the collar, I will press down on the front and back shock towers again before making a measurement.
So do I.
I use Hudy gauges measuring 0.2mm increments with 10mm blocks in conjunction with the droop gauge. I was aalways happy with that throughout the past years at clubracing level running 17.5T.
I think the most important thing is, that you allways use the same method of pressing down and measuring. That's the only way you will be able to track and understand your changes on your setup. And you'll allways be able to return to an older setup of yours which you documented earlier.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:07 PM   #1596
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So do I.
I use Hudy gauges measuring 0.2mm increments with 10mm blocks in conjunction with the droop gauge. I was aalways happy with that throughout the past years at clubracing level running 17.5T.
I think the most important thing is, that you allways use the same method of pressing down and measuring. That's the only way you will be able to track and understand your changes on your setup. And you'll allways be able to return to an older setup of yours which you documented earlier.
Agreed, consistency is key. I really like using the droop blocks for set-up
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:11 PM   #1597
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Hi there,

I am considering purchasing a 6.2 to run outdoors on medium to low grip asphalt. I have noted in previous posts some of you guys are fitting alloy front C uprights etc. Are the standard kit parts too fragile?

Many thanks
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:53 PM   #1598
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If you are crashing hard the c-hubs can break. They are not fragile but also not as bulletproof as the Xray ones. For the last two years I didn't break one... So this is just a problem if you frequently hit the boards hard
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Old 11-29-2014, 01:07 PM   #1599
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I don't crash often either, so that sounds like they will be ok. I have read that the spool outdrives wear quickly, so are the steel ones a good upgrade or is the wear not that bad!

Many thanks
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Old 11-29-2014, 01:29 PM   #1600
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My steel outdrives lasted the whole summer season with a 10.5t motor. For the winter I changed them plus the axles.
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:50 PM   #1601
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I've got 3 full days of racing on the steel outdrives and they show practically no wear at all yet. Use a good thick grease on the universal drive pins to help with friction and wear, I use Tamiya Anti-Wear Grease personally but plenty of others will work fine.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:13 PM   #1602
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Thanks for your info, are there any other gotcha's I need to know about?

Cheers
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Old 11-30-2014, 01:46 AM   #1603
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ReflexRacing has some nice option parts. A must have are the bladders.
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Old 11-30-2014, 02:40 AM   #1604
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Thanks so much for the advice
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Old 11-30-2014, 03:35 PM   #1605
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Quick question-trying to use a savox 1258 but the top of the case hits the steering bellcrank post. Any one have a fix around this other than a different servo? Appreciate the feedback.
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