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Old 05-14-2015, 08:12 AM   #901
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I've tried both battery orientations back to back and couldn't really tell much of a difference. My Hero Lap was one tenth faster inline but it did feel a little edgey. Only my fifth time ever running on road carpet so I'm still a noob.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:29 AM   #902
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Maybe it depends on where we put the lead to get the car up to weight min, I had to add 60g of lead, I put 20g on right under recv counter balance esc weight and balance the car left to right then I put 20g each side of the battery where the battery would go if it was sideways, not front to back as I have it

or maybe some are running the car WAY under weight
My car has been at 1055 for good measure. Honestly I have not balanced my car left to right. I saw where Drew Ellis had his weight and just stuck it there.
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Old 05-15-2015, 03:21 AM   #903
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pushes both ways? Are you gonna be at Norcal Sunday?
Yep I'll be there. Last race I ran the battery sideways in one qual and inline in another. Car had no turn in. No turn transition in the chicane. Ran wide on exit. Had to hard push brake on almost every corner. Having to turn 100% dual rate lock to lock in corners is telling me something is wrong. Setup was stock except a one step harder center spring and hard Tamiya grease in the Tamiya damper tube.....any suggestions will be appreciated.

Funny the car was good on carpet...
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:10 PM   #904
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I have a question as I am building my X1,

The front top suspension arms.
The instructions say to allow free movement of the suspension, so I have not tightened it too much. The screws that go from the top of the suspension to the bottom are flush with the bottom eccentric piece (that adjusts castor). However there is a bit of a gap and If I wanted I could push the entire top suspension off of the plastic housings for each ball pivot. --as it isn't too tight and there is a slight gap.

I took a crappy photo, my camera wouldn't focus on the part, ..but you can see where I am talking about. So how much should I tighten down that top suspension? Do the screws protrude through the bottom? Should there be no gap?
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:32 PM   #905
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I left mine a little loose. I tightened them all the way down then back them off until they fall freely. I don't know if it's right or wrong, but that's what I did. I hope it helps.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:48 PM   #906
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Thanks ...that is about what I did ...that is helpful, -i'll continue w/ the build that way.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:24 AM   #907
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HA! figured out the issue, ...I somehow totally missed snapping the o-rings onto the plastic pivot pieces ...hence why they kept slipping off!!

Now it all makes sense.
...how the heck did I miss that?!
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:00 PM   #908
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HA! figured out the issue, ...I somehow totally missed snapping the o-rings onto the plastic pivot pieces ...hence why they kept slipping off!!

Now it all makes sense.
...how the heck did I miss that?!
Good thing that you realised the mistake before putting it on the track, could have had disastrous results.

I leave the top 4 screws a little loose to start with, and check for free movement after each race day, as they do free up a little over time.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:29 AM   #909
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Good thing that you realised the mistake before putting it on the track, could have had disastrous results.

I leave the top 4 screws a little loose to start with, and check for free movement after each race day, as they do free up a little over time.
-I knew something wasn't right, i've built no less than a dozen kits, probably 20 or more ...the suspension arms would just fall off their pivots with the slightest pressure. I went back and re-read the instructions over and over. It wasn't until I noticed that in my parts tray I had a complete set of o-rings and the instructions said to move on to "bag 2" that I knew something was amiss. Thankfully I only take the parts out of each bag as I need them and put them in trays.

Anyway, now that the o-rings are in place the amount of tension/tightening w/ the suspension makes perfect sense and is easy to figure out.

thanks for the quick help!
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:31 PM   #910
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okay, a quick question about the ball diff'.

The instructions are a tad vague, ...how tight/loose do you guys run your ball diff'? guess it depends on track condition ...any recommendations for high grip asphalt?
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:42 PM   #911
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okay, a quick question about the ball diff'.

The instructions are a tad vague, ...how tight/loose do you guys run your ball diff'? guess it depends on track condition ...any recommendations for high grip asphalt?
Where are you running 'high grip asphalt' not norcal

just tight enough so it doesnt slip when you hold both wheels and try to rotate the spur. Make sure to break it in first and go slow in tightening dont crank it tight then loosen
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:47 PM   #912
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Where are you running 'high grip asphalt' not norcal

just tight enough so it doesnt slip when you hold both wheels and try to rotate the spur. Make sure to break it in first and go slow in tightening dont crank it tight then loosen
+1. I did mine tight enough so the spur didn't slip, then i just adjusted it to suit the track.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:16 AM   #913
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I have found that running one less conical washer in the diff has made the diff feel much better. If you are having trouble with the diff try this.
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Old 05-22-2015, 09:06 AM   #914
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Where are you running 'high grip asphalt' not norcal
No, ..I race w/ "The Ground Pounders" typically, ..we run on parking lot, but they usually put a lot of rootbeer on the track ...it's pretty high grip. I do practice at Delta (in Antioch) on occassion which has much less grip ...so yes, i'll be adjusting accordingly.

-------

thanks, i think tightening just to the point that that spur gear doesn't slip when turning wheels will be a good starting point.
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Old 05-22-2015, 09:08 AM   #915
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..i haven't been to NorCal since they moved from Union City ...San Jose is just too far for me (it's 2hrs drive w/ no traffic).
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