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Old 04-06-2017, 10:56 AM   #2071
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Simplifying my question: could you help me with recommended/initial 48p spur and pinion for 21.5 blinky asphalt racing?
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Old 04-07-2017, 06:55 AM   #2072
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it depends on your track and also the motor you use. A good start is around 2.5 Ratio
so 72 spur 29 pinion is ok
if you run on a large track you can go to 2.1 2.2
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:24 PM   #2073
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So what kind of spare parts are good to have for an Xray F1 car?

I just got this car and I do alot of travel races, so having just the essential spares would be great
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:04 AM   #2074
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Originally Posted by GT CRUSING View Post
So what kind of spare parts are good to have for an Xray F1 car?

I just got this car and I do alot of travel races, so having just the essential spares would be great
front arms, side links, king pin, flanged rear axle bearings and rear insert.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:19 AM   #2075
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Sorry for all the questions, getting better though. Best day so far today.


More of a technique question than an X1, but how do you all brake? I got a chance to watch a lot of the touring cars today and they way the slow entering a turn is something I can't replicate. I noticed many were pushing on the trigger for brake. I've got Drag brake set to about 20% on my esc, but I haven't been using trigger braking at all and when I do, since I haven't really set it, it's kind of all or nothing.

I'm carrying too much speed into the turns and it's pushing something fierce
I've been experimenting with hand breaks a lot lately on my X1. Our carpet track has long straights into tight 180's so something more the drag break was needed. Compared to my touring car (which uses 95-100% hand break, 15% drag) on the same layout on my F1 I only use 65-70% hand, (20% drag) with a lot of expo to smooth it out. I'm able to break heavily without getting the car out of shape. It still takes a different driving style compared to Touring Cars though.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:56 AM   #2076
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So what kind of spare parts are good to have for an Xray F1 car?

I just got this car and I do alot of travel races, so having just the essential spares would be great
Spur gears. If you keep it rubber side down, the wing won't hit the gear. We all speak from experience.
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:36 AM   #2077
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Default sway bar

Seeing an advantage/difference with the add of the swaybar?
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Old 04-26-2017, 05:44 AM   #2078
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Default Detailed clarification/help regarding tweak

Hi Guys,

I have a question regarding the tweak of this chassis. I have now read all 139 something pages of this thread, and have found small posts here and there regarding tweak which impacts left/right ride height in the middle position. But I have yet to find a post which explains in detail what the issue is.

My hope is that some of you kind Xray guys, will take the time, and help me to understand what my problem is, where it's coming from, and how I can fix it.

I have tried to loosen all screws in the top and bottom of the front end, and tighten them again. This does not help.

I have about 0,4-0,6 difference L/R in ride height in the middle position. I would really like to have that as close to zero as possible.

The front springs are brand new, I have just changed them because i thought one had collapsed maybe. This is not the case.

I hope you can help me out Any help will be much appreciated!

Br.
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Old 04-26-2017, 06:41 AM   #2079
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Hi Guys,

I have a question regarding the tweak of this chassis. I have now read all 139 something pages of this thread, and have found small posts here and there regarding tweak which impacts left/right ride height in the middle position. But I have yet to find a post which explains in detail what the issue is.

My hope is that some of you kind Xray guys, will take the time, and help me to understand what my problem is, where it's coming from, and how I can fix it.

I have tried to loosen all screws in the top and bottom of the front end, and tighten them again. This does not help.

I have about 0,4-0,6 difference L/R in ride height in the middle position. I would really like to have that as close to zero as possible.

The front springs are brand new, I have just changed them because i thought one had collapsed maybe. This is not the case.

I hope you can help me out Any help will be much appreciated!

Br.
Chris
Chassis will never be perfectly flat because of tweak balancing and rubber tires and insert inconsistency's. At least that is my experience. I have rotated tires and the offset chassis followed. Plus, I have had it perfect flat then adjusted tweak for balance and it was off again.
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:39 AM   #2080
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Originally Posted by sgp-chris View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a question regarding the tweak of this chassis. I have now read all 139 something pages of this thread, and have found small posts here and there regarding tweak which impacts left/right ride height in the middle position. But I have yet to find a post which explains in detail what the issue is.

My hope is that some of you kind Xray guys, will take the time, and help me to understand what my problem is, where it's coming from, and how I can fix it.

I have tried to loosen all screws in the top and bottom of the front end, and tighten them again. This does not help.

I have about 0,4-0,6 difference L/R in ride height in the middle position. I would really like to have that as close to zero as possible.

The front springs are brand new, I have just changed them because i thought one had collapsed maybe. This is not the case.

I hope you can help me out Any help will be much appreciated!

Br.
Chris
To make sure I understand, when you measure in the 'middle' position - where are you specifically measuring? At the front of the rear pod plate or somewhere else?

I measure ride height in 4 places:
  • Front - under the front arm mount
  • Front of Side Link - under the front pivot ball
  • Rear of Side Link - under the rear pivot ball
  • Rear - from the back of the pod plate (left and right side)
There are a number of things that can cause tweak:

General

Tires - F1 tires have thin inserts and a large air gap - the more you run them, the more uneven they get. They tend to cone like foam tires with heavy use. I mark my tires and don't rotate them for racing. On the bench, you can rotate them and see if that causes any tweak or put on a new set and see if there is a difference.

Balance - Make sure the car is balanced left to right when ready to run. Remember that the side of the battery with the plugs is lighter than the other side.

Wires - Make sure wires are not causing any pressure on the rear pod. I use TQ1000 (14g), anything more is not necessary. Make sure the sensor wire is not putting pressure on the rear pod - I cut the sleeve off and twist them.

Chassis - double check it is flat.

Front End

Bent Arms - The arms (especially the lower arm) tend to bend and become soft over time. Take the arms off and lightly flex them, if they show signs of being overly soft or not returning to neutral by themselves then replace them.

Collapsed Springs - One spring has collapsed.

Rebuild - For a quick or partial fix, loosening the screws (especially the castor plate) may work, however, I tear down the entire front end. It doesn't really take that much time (~10 min) and allows me to check that nothing is bending, binding or broken and solves 99% of front end issues.

Front/Middle

Servo Mount - I run the car with the direct servo mount position. I will loosen these screws and retighten.

Middle/Rear

Tweak Springs - Check that they are not collapsed, or crooked (the set-screw is not in the carbon straight). I use a 2mm shim between the spring holder and carbon plate as a starting point with kit springs - this makes the springs just touch the chassis. I will tweak the car from there.

Side Links - Make sure they are free - a slightly tight side link on one side of the car is a tell tale sign that the rear pod is tweaked (re-adjust the pivot ball assembly).

Pivot Ball Assembly - check the pivot ball movement - too much slop (up and down) will cause odd ride height issues.

Rear

Pod Plate - make sure it's not bent, cracked, etc.

Inserts - On a rare occasion, the ride height inserts have developed some slop up and down - after a blown and locked up bearing in my case.

Tires - Usually the case, as mentioned before - they wear down and become soft. When replacing with new tires, I have gained 0.5 - 0.7 of ride height.

Overall

Even with a perfectly flat setup, after a couple of hard hits you may start to notice some tweak - 0.5mm is not too bad - 1mm or more and I'd start looking for the issue.

Hope that helps. Let us know.
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:16 PM   #2081
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To make sure I understand, when you measure in the 'middle' position - where are you specifically measuring? At the front of the rear pod plate or somewhere else?
I measure it just in front of the rear pod.

Thank you very much for you're explanation, I will investigate a little further, and begin to accept the fact that it won't be 100% from L/R
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