metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Hm... no, I just meant the camber links, I haven't considered changing the roll center at the hinge pins. I thought that to lower the roll center, the first step was to change the angle of the camber links.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

That certainly is one of the ways, raising the inside of the link will lower the roll center, and also reduce camber gain. It's generally a less aggressive change compared to lowering the hinge pins, given the same amount of shim change.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Ok, right, then we're on the same page. I wasn't going after the more aggressive change just yet. But I was curious if people shim the inside link to, say, 3 or 4mm, before they drop the hub by 1mm?

I could be asking something dumb, so apologies in advance.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Not dumb at all.

According to RC Crew Chief, I just double-checked, a .5mm shim change at the hinge pin is about a 3 times larger change to roll center compared to a .5mm shim change on the camber link. Changing the camber link tho will make a much more sizable change to camber gain. So, be mindful that you'll probably want to add more static camber when lowering your roll center via the camber links.

Speaking completely anecdotally, I find a .5mm change to upper camber link hard to feel on the track, most of the time. You might try a full 1mm change, or a .5mm change at the hinge pin to get a solid feel for how the change effected your car.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

+1 to Ethan. I would prefer to reduce the shims at the hub first personally just to avoid any wheel rub on the outer camber link. 2mm will clear most wheelson the bench , but it can get close and I have seen it rub on some wheels, especially soft wheels that can deflect under load at mod speeds.

Rccardude

Hello

On my t4 14 the pin in the outer u joint on the left front axle keeps sliding out and caching the king pin and locking the left front up. If any of you have had this problem pls tell me how it can be fixed.

Thanks

Skiddins

Do your driveshaft pins have a 'flat' in them?

If so, you need to ensure the grub screw goes into that flat spot and use some thread locking compound to hold it in place.

Skiddins

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'm finding the Xray DCJs to be very frustrating. I've had the set screw back off about a dozen times now, resulting in the pin sliding out and either tearing up my C-hub or getting stuck in the knuckle. Two things I have learned.

1. Degrease the crap out of all the parts before you assemble
2. You GOOD loctite, not like what I've been using (just random RC brand). Use Permatex 243, which is "surface insensitive" and should handle oily conditions better. That's what I'm trying next.

I also have a set of RSD DCJs coming, the $100+ worth of Xray ones have let me down one too many times and may just serve as backups to the RSD ones soon.

Skiddins

Heatshrink the tube section and replace it every now and again.
Problem solved

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I did try that but the heat shrink kept sliding off. I may just have cheap heat shrink, I bought a "multi-size bulk" container off of Amazon. Do you have specific heat shrink you use?

xrayracer1

iTrader: (1)

Bump.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

How does the car behave with the kit asphalt setup?

xrayracer1

iTrader: (1)

On fast corners/sweepers it tends to understeer mid corner, and on hard/ shard turns the backend kicks out a little. I'm running the kit setup with those carbon fibre plates on the rear arms and I'm running Take off 27 tires.

Rccardude

Hello

I'm green to on road rc racing and I've only raced once and have 2 weeks in between races. What maintenance I should do in between races and what I should do every two races.

Thanks

Rccardude

I don't have a very good setup but if your track allows tire prepping use mountain green. From what I've scene in full size racecars it will give you a lot of grip