chasingthepack

the t4-14 is a better all round car as it works well in all conditions,the bd7 appears to only go well on med to high grip,a few have tried to run the bd7 in the winter champs and failed and changed brand,at the last meeting a very good stock driver with a bd7 was beaten by a t4 13 and a t4 14
it was around 8c track about 6 started damp and dried out,at my local track the bd7 only does well in the summer

Shock Tower

I am new to xray, and is just in the process to build a brand new T4 14. Came to the point today, where i was putting the rear uprights on the rear suspension arms. All that went fine, but when i mounted the upper turn buckles, the the hole suspension was binding ?
I have made the tunbuckles to the specific lenght for the rear on 52.8mm from end to end, but it just was to short. I also checked that I have screw in the right holes, and I used the inner hole on the uprights, and the outer hole on the upper clamps.
Any surgestion of what might have been wrong ?

Skiddins

Have you put the correct driveshafts in the rear? they are shorter at the back

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

On my first T4'14 kit, some of the ball cups for the camber links were very very tight on the ball studs. You can feel this by twisting the camber link with your fingers. It should feel very free. If it's difficult to twist your fingers, then it's too tight on the balls. I'd first pop the cups off the balls and look to see if there are any imperfections on the ball. If it looks good, pop the cup back on and see if it's still tight. Sometimes popping a cup off will stretch it very slightly. If it's still really tight, try squeezing the cup with pliers.

If that's not where the binding is coming from, it can only be from the inner or outer hinge pins being too tight, or the arm mounts pinching the arms. Or maybe something with the diff outdrive if you've done something strange with the suspension mounts.

I assume you haven't mounted the anti-roll bars yet?

-Mike

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, that too. You can tell front from rear, because the ones that go in the rear should say "7075" and "50mm" on them, and they're thicker.

-Mike

blwaz23

Just looked at the T4 '14........ all I can say is wow. Beautiful car and Xray did a great job on the website with all of the options.

http://www.teamxray.com/t4/

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

15000 made the car have a much more corner speed and steering, especially into and out of corners. It also had a lot more forward traction, I did try 20000 also but that was a little too difficult to drive. The lowest diff oil I tried at HUGE was 5000, higher grip we always use heavy oil, as lighter oils "diff out". In Australia I Generally run anywhere from 2000-10000 depending on track grip

Antoni

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Do you think that would apply for a tight high-grip carpet track?

-Mike

walzjer

I'm about to order my Xray.

Wich oil are you using in the shocks and diffs? When I was using my Yokomo I used GM oil.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Depends on your track surface and traction.

walzjer

I know but wich company are you using?

GM, Xray or something else? I remember from my old days that they can hardly be compared.

Shock Tower

Rookie mistake , I switch the driveshaft by accident.

Thanks guys ! Problem solved I think.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I run associated oils, because they're easy to get. I don't necessarily think they're the best, though.

-Mike

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I have mostly AE oils because they are cheap. But I also have Xray oils. AE oil is pretty decent since its all made by lucas oil now. I've certainly never had an issue with it or noticed any inconsistencies.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Arrowmax 7075 chassis