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Old 02-25-2014, 01:11 AM   #1411
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Just watched the T4`14 Setup Hagberg used at TITC 2014:
Its mentioned that he only used the upper 2 screws for mounting the shock towers!

Getting more flex really becomes crazy :-D
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:17 AM   #1412
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That track was very inconsistent and bumpy, people were trying all sorts of weird things.
I wouldnt read too much into that unless there's a specific condition you are working towards.
Hagberg never did seem to get to a set up he was totally happy with at that track! Conditions were changing pretty drastically from heat to heat.
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:17 PM   #1413
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Here is my setup from TITC.

Finished 13th overall in mod and was the next best placed Xray behind Alex. My setup was a little bit different, as I prefer the "floating flex" style better. note I also use the Smokem lowered layshaft mounts so there is a gap between the top deck.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014
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Old 02-25-2014, 05:58 PM   #1414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Here is my setup from TITC.

Finished 13th overall in mod and was the next best placed Xray behind Alex. My setup was a little bit different, as I prefer the "floating flex" style better. note I also use the Smokem lowered layshaft mounts so there is a gap between the top deck.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014
Was the 4.5mm at the wheel hex, in addition to the kit hex, or the total width of the hex?
I assume Alex made is car narrower at the hex's to try and make the car more agile?
I found on high grip that I like the centre post as it seems to give more steering and help make the mid cornering more consistent.

How much of an effect (and what effect) does removing the lower two shock tower screws?

Skiddins
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:41 PM   #1415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Was the 4.5mm at the wheel hex, in addition to the kit hex, or the total width of the hex?
I assume Alex made is car narrower at the hex's to try and make the car more agile?
I found on high grip that I like the centre post as it seems to give more steering and help make the mid cornering more consistent.

How much of an effect (and what effect) does removing the lower two shock tower screws?

Skiddins
Hey Skiddins,

The 4.5mm is the total width, which was a 4mm Hex plus a .5mm wheel shim. We mainly did this as the wheels where a different offset (wider) to normal, but ill be trying this more from now on in the future. It does make the car more agile being narrower but a lot more difficult to drive.

The two screws out...I didn't notice much difference but Alex believes it offers more grip. I only did it because he did it

Antoni
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:13 AM   #1416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Here is my setup from TITC.

Finished 13th overall in mod and was the next best placed Xray behind Alex. My setup was a little bit different, as I prefer the "floating flex" style better. note I also use the Smokem lowered layshaft mounts so there is a gap between the top deck.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014
the rear diff oil,mistake? 1500?
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:23 AM   #1417
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In Hagbergs Setup and his report from TITC he mentioned, that they indeed were using such thick oil in the rear diff.
So it should be no mistake
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:32 AM   #1418
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It didn't take them long!



Quote:
Aluminium chassis plates seem to becoming en vogue in electric touring car racing and one of the latest companies to jump on the band wagon is Asian aftermarket company Arrowmax. Their latest release is this 2mm 7075-T6 alloy chassis for the Xray T4í14. CNC-machined and coming with a silver finish the lower deck is a direct replacement for the kitís stock carbon fibre chassis.
http://www.redrc.net/2014/02/arrowma...inium-chassis/
Source: Arrowmax [arrowmax-rc.com]
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:19 AM   #1419
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Hey everyone!
I got a couple of questions about the T4 2014... I'm going to join the RC business again (drove from 2007 to 2008 for Robitronic and since 2010 to 2012 with a Yokomo BD5WC).
Some colleagues told me i should buy the new T4 2014. But im not sure if its the right decision.... Has anyone experience with that car outdoor? I'm going to drive the car almost only on low/mid grip asphalt with 17.5 turn stock.

I hover between an Yokomo BD7'14 and the T4'14.... Maybe anybody got the two cars and compared them on asphalt?

Thank you for your help! And please be lenient with my English.. I'm from Germany ;-)
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:39 AM   #1420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walzjer View Post
Hey everyone!
I got a couple of questions about the T4 2014... I'm going to join the RC business again (drove from 2007 to 2008 for Robitronic and since 2010 to 2012 with a Yokomo BD5WC).
Some colleagues told me i should buy the new T4 2014. But im not sure if its the right decision.... Has anyone experience with that car outdoor? I'm going to drive the car almost only on low/mid grip asphalt with 17.5 turn stock.

I hover between an Yokomo BD7'14 and the T4'14.... Maybe anybody got the two cars and compared them on asphalt?

Thank you for your help! And please be lenient with my English.. I'm from Germany ;-)
On low-grip tarmac I think the Xray wins. We've been racing outdoors over the winter in the UK and the Yokomos have struggled a bit (they seem to get better as the grip comes up).

I've mainly been racing the T4 '13, but have done a couple of runs with my new '14 and it works very well, loads of grip at both ends.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:32 AM   #1421
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@daleburr Thank you for your fast answer. That sounds quite good.

Maybe someone else can give me another feedback.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:47 AM   #1422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Hey Skiddins,

The 4.5mm is the total width, which was a 4mm Hex plus a .5mm wheel shim. We mainly did this as the wheels where a different offset (wider) to normal, but ill be trying this more from now on in the future. It does make the car more agile being narrower but a lot more difficult to drive.

The two screws out...I didn't notice much difference but Alex believes it offers more grip. I only did it because he did it

Antoni
Cheers.

How much difference did running 15,000 in the rear diff compared with 2-3000 make?
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:34 PM   #1423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walzjer View Post
@daleburr Thank you for your fast answer. That sounds quite good.

Maybe someone else can give me another feedback.
I have no experience with Yokomo. That being said, I ran with my T4'14 quite a bit on both low and medium to high grip asphalt recently, and was super happy (and quite fast) with it. There's lots of tunability in the car, even without expensive option parts, and you can really change the character of the car from relaxed wet noodle to razor sharp and aggressive.

The parts I'd recommend to have would be:
- Appropriate spur for your intended class. I don't really like the offset spurs. Serpent are easy to find and fit well, although their concentricity seems just a touch lacking, which is fine for 48 pitch but might be an issue for 64-pitch.
- Shock and diff oils
- Selection of 0.5mm, 1.0mm, and 2.0mm aluminum shims from your favorite cheap Hong Kong brand, for tuning.
- DCJs (Spec-R have been great for me, cheap and reliable)
- Motor mount post - well worth it, and IMO a must-have for medium or higher grip, as it seems to add precision and balance the flex better.
- Graphite arm plates for medium or higher grip - gives the car a more locked-in, precise feeling, but does make it just a touch less willing to dig the front end in and yank the car around.
- Springs to play with, to see what you like. The cost can add up, but you can keep them across chassis if you stick with Xray.
- Aluminum or maybe graphite adjustable battery retainers. The kit ones are fine for a while, but they get sloppy eventually.
- CSO Top Deck Shims (makes shimming the top deck much easier, although I've heard they can be inconsistent in thickness causing top deck tweak). Shimming the top deck and removing the motor mount post screw seems to work well when grip is really low, to give the car more grip.
- Stick-on weights: this car is light!

Other than that.... Everything's in the box!

-Mike
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:43 PM   #1424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walzjer View Post
Hey everyone!
I got a couple of questions about the T4 2014... I'm going to join the RC business again (drove from 2007 to 2008 for Robitronic and since 2010 to 2012 with a Yokomo BD5WC).
Some colleagues told me i should buy the new T4 2014. But im not sure if its the right decision.... Has anyone experience with that car outdoor? I'm going to drive the car almost only on low/mid grip asphalt with 17.5 turn stock.

I hover between an Yokomo BD7'14 and the T4'14.... Maybe anybody got the two cars and compared them on asphalt?

Thank you for your help! And please be lenient with my English.. I'm from Germany ;-)
The BD7 is an excellent outdoor TC.. easy to drive...never had the T4 2014..
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:46 AM   #1425
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Thank your grippgoat for so many details. I noticed all and think about it. Also thanks to OVA.

I think i will order next week. The T4'14 looks really good.
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