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Old 02-19-2014, 04:32 PM   #1396
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So I put the car on scales and played with battery orientation. For both my IP and Team Powers 6800 packs, it changes the front rear weight split by about 5g. That's with the wires plugged in. So almost no difference.

-Mike
It would only be a small difference (try weighing the ends of the battery pack itself) but I did find that on a fast track with a high speed chicane it did help plant the rear a little better when weight was put to the front.

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Old 02-19-2014, 06:01 PM   #1397
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Thanks for the info guys ill look into it.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:52 PM   #1398
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I use a 2 screw method while assembling my diff. This allows any overflow to seep out of the open holes. Its the same way Paul shows to build his front diffs in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmfInldgGsc
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:24 PM   #1399
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Hey guys, have any of you had the rear gear diff leak? I've just finished building my t4 '14 and haven't had a chance to race it yet, and I've noticed there is some fluid on the stand it sits on. Have any of you had this problem?
Just to add, should I replace the rear belt? It's covered in oil as well.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:39 PM   #1400
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Just to add, should I replace the rear belt? It's covered in oil as well.
I'd just wipe it down with a towel. The oil will fling off fast enough.

-Mike
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:30 AM   #1401
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My diffs always leaks a little when new. After 2 or 3 meeting it's over. I think the gasket and the O-rings need to settle first.
The belt is fine after it's soaked with oil. I try to clean it with a paper towel as good as possible and then run it. I won't slip or break.
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:58 AM   #1402
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Default Motor won't fit?

What do you do if the motor shaft is too long and it drills into the battery? Do you cut/grind the shaft shorter? OR shim the motor outwards? If you do, what shims would you use between motor and motor mount? Will it make the motor more likely to shift when crashing?
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:00 AM   #1403
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What do you do if the motor shaft is too long and it drills into the battery? Do you cut/grind the shaft shorter? OR shim the motor outwards? If you do, what shims would you use between motor and motor mount? Will it make the motor more likely to shift when crashing?
I grind the motor shaft.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:25 AM   #1404
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I grind the motor shaft.
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:44 AM   #1405
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Originally Posted by morgoth View Post
My diffs always leaks a little when new. After 2 or 3 meeting it's over. I think the gasket and the O-rings need to settle first.
The belt is fine after it's soaked with oil. I try to clean it with a paper towel as good as possible and then run it. I won't slip or break.
Same, here. Out of the box mine leaked like crazy. Rebuilt it; same thing. I pulled it apart again and on the third rebuild build I:

Used 2000cst AE oil instead of the kit oil (recommendation based on local track)
Used a fresh o-ring (original had swelled up too much to fit)
Installed the paper gasket with shiny side facing the mating surface
and added exactly 1.3g oil (I bought a cheap scale from Amazon just for this).

So far, its looks like that did the trick.
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:50 PM   #1406
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Same, here. Out of the box mine leaked like crazy. Rebuilt it; same thing. I pulled it apart again and on the third rebuild build I:

Used 2000cst AE oil instead of the kit oil (recommendation based on local track)
Used a fresh o-ring (original had swelled up too much to fit)
Installed the paper gasket with shiny side facing the mating surface
and added exactly 1.3g oil (I bought a cheap scale from Amazon just for this).

So far, its looks like that did the trick.
I don't use the O-ring. The paper gasket is fine.
My XB4 also leaked after I just build it. I think that the small O rings expand a little after the soaked for while in oil.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:34 PM   #1407
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Originally Posted by TEM View Post
What do you do if the motor shaft is too long and it drills into the battery? Do you cut/grind the shaft shorter? OR shim the motor outwards? If you do, what shims would you use between motor and motor mount? Will it make the motor more likely to shift when crashing?
+2 as above, grind motor shaft.

...anyone tried the 3Racing 64P Spur Gears, looking to find out if they fit, in order to use some of their odd tooth-count ones to obtain different FDR's?
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:22 PM   #1408
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had the same problem at TITC 2014 last week, gear diff leaking.

I approached Hagberg and asked him how to solve it and he told me that none of the factory drivers including himself use the O-ring. The gasket is fine by itself.

1st time I ran the kit without the o-ring, very minimal leak, 2nd time around, none
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:29 PM   #1409
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+2 as above, grind motor shaft.

...anyone tried the 3Racing 64P Spur Gears, looking to find out if they fit, in order to use some of their odd tooth-count ones to obtain different FDR's?
The new leespeed gears are very good as well. It's what I've been running since Vegas. Just now started using 84 pitch stuff too.

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Old 02-24-2014, 11:21 PM   #1410
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Thanks Eric, appreciate the recommendation and will check out the leespeed and the 84P gears. The new ORCA VXX esc is working great!
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