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Old 02-17-2014, 01:50 AM   #1381
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Well by the end of racing yesterday the Bedworth track had just about dried after an overnight frost, so I finally got to run my new T4'14 after the racing had finished. I started with kit setup for all the major stuff, just a change of springs to 2.7 all round, shocks in position #2 rather than #3, and a few topdeck screws removed.

I'm amazed at how good the car was on its first run. It definitely has more steering than the old T4, especially mid-to-exit, but the rear was still safe through the corner, even in very cold conditions on a dirty track. And the direction-change was incredible through the twisty bits.

I can see the car might need a bit of calming down if you're racing on carpet, but on tarmac it's right on the money and looks like a step forwards to me

(Oh, and I TQd and won in the damp/drying conditions with my old T4, so that's still doing great work as a wet car).
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:35 AM   #1382
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I've always been under the impression it was more of a weight balance thing. The end with the bullets would be lighter as the packs are towards the opposite end. I've never really verified this so I don't know if thats 100% true. I guess it would be very easy to test with 4 scales. Just check the corner weights with the lipo both ways and see if there is any difference.

That being said, I always run mine with bullets back for the shorter cleaner wiring.
On the packs I had , the connector end was 10g lighter.

So turning the packs around was like taking a 10g weight from one end of the car and adding it to the other.
I normally run the connectors at the front, but on faster carpet tracks with fast chicanes etc, running the connectors at the rear can help with the cars balance with the quick direction changes.

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Old 02-17-2014, 05:40 PM   #1383
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I could be wrong, but the Aluminum Chassis will flex more than the CF Chassis, in order to provide more grip.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:43 PM   #1384
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No the aluminium flex less, making the car more stable and consistent on high traction tracks.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:21 PM   #1385
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No the aluminium flex less, making the car more stable and consistent on high traction tracks.
Interesting...hope to see some of the local factory guys trying this out soon, thanks.
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Old 02-17-2014, 08:44 PM   #1386
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So I put the car on scales and played with battery orientation. For both my IP and Team Powers 6800 packs, it changes the front rear weight split by about 5g. That's with the wires plugged in. So almost no difference.

-Mike
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:54 PM   #1387
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I notice in the XRAY forum that Harberg has posted a low traction asphalt set-up on the 11th February. I wanted to have a look at it and compare it to my set-up but the pdf is locked. Does anyone have access to that set-up for viewing?
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:15 PM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
No the aluminium flex less, making the car more stable and consistent on high traction tracks.
We won't know until we get it as far as what it will do.

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I notice in the XRAY forum that Harberg has posted a low traction asphalt set-up on the 11th February. I wanted to have a look at it and compare it to my set-up but the pdf is locked. Does anyone have access to that set-up for viewing?
It's private for a reason. Anyone that has access to it will not share it on a public forum.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:34 PM   #1389
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Thanks Tex, very insightful.
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:19 PM   #1390
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anyone have issues with the set up sheet on petit RC not saving properly as a PDF when you fill it out? I fill the whole thing out and it will print properly, but wont save on my computer anything other than blank... anyone know of a place to get a set up sheet that i can fill out and save properly?

thanks
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:39 PM   #1391
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anyone have issues with the set up sheet on petit RC not saving properly as a PDF when you fill it out? I fill the whole thing out and it will print properly, but wont save on my computer anything other than blank... anyone know of a place to get a set up sheet that i can fill out and save properly?

thanks
You have to go to the Xray website and go to forum and open a new set-up sheet, and dont forget to register first.
Than you have a sheet you can download to your own computer.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/ind...d3cc773f2c69ab
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:41 PM   #1392
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Hey guys, have any of you had the rear gear diff leak? I've just finished building my t4 '14 and haven't had a chance to race it yet, and I've noticed there is some fluid on the stand it sits on. Have any of you had this problem?
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:55 PM   #1393
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Hey guys, have any of you had the rear gear diff leak? I've just finished building my t4 '14 and haven't had a chance to race it yet, and I've noticed there is some fluid on the stand it sits on. Have any of you had this problem?
Is that with the kit oil? I've had one leak a bit, but for the most part, all my Xray diffs have been solid. Here's some things that may or may not help:

1) The kit oil is quite thin, and will be more likely to leak. I usually run 2k or 3k associated.
2) I'm not sure if green slime on the outdrive O-rings helps or hurts. If you didn't use it, try using it. If you did use it... maybe the O-rings just need to break in.
3) With the large o-ring that seals the case halves, I find it more likely to seat properly if you put it in the "female" case half, rather than on the "male" case half. If it doesn't seat properly, it probably does more harm than good. Maybe try leaving it out completely.
4) Make sure you tightened the screws enough. The xray plastic is really tough, and the screws get really tight towards the end.

-Mike
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:06 PM   #1394
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Hey guys, have any of you had the rear gear diff leak? I've just finished building my t4 '14 and haven't had a chance to race it yet, and I've noticed there is some fluid on the stand it sits on. Have any of you had this problem?
Only if it's overfilled. I use a diff grease from x gear for the o rings and outdrives and build them exactly like the manual with the exception of leaving out the large diff o ring. I just use the paper gasket and have had no issues across five or six different x ray sedans.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:22 PM   #1395
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The large O ring isn't needed. If you used it I would take it out while you are in there. The green paper gasket does good.
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