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Old 02-15-2014, 06:10 AM   #1366
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If you are running mod, the Spec R R1/S1 belts work and are the most durable ones I have found. They are also fairly inexpensive. Just make sure it's the belts for the R1/S1 and not the Spec R low Friction belts for XRAY. Those are essentially the same as the stock ones.
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Old 02-15-2014, 06:17 AM   #1367
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Originally Posted by bigtez View Post
Broke a rear belt on the weekend and need to order a replacement and spares. I notice on RCMarket they list the top, cso, HB and yokomo as being compatible with the T4. Are any of them better than the X-rays or at least of similar quality. I would rather pay less for one of the other brands than the exorbitant local Xray prices.
I'm having good luck with ARC rear belt for my T4


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Old 02-15-2014, 04:26 PM   #1368
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Thanks Christian and sniper. Ordered 4 belts from spec r for about the same price as one xray belt locally. Hopefully they will be here before our next race meet.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #1369
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Thanks Christian and sniper. Ordered 4 belts from spec r for about the same price as one xray belt locally. Hopefully they will be here before our next race meet.
when i had a Spec-R R1 I've never broke any belts for 2 races. One weekend with the T4 I broke 2....geez.

*i do know how much tension to set ok...
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:26 PM   #1370
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when i had a Spec-R R1 I've never broke any belts for 2 races. One weekend with the T4 I broke 2....geez.

*i do know how much tension to set ok...

I find that odd. I've been using the xray belts in mod for a two years now and have only broke one belt, outside. I'm sure they break but if I lost two in a weekend I would be looking to see what else is wrong.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:40 PM   #1371
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Has anyone tried the new T4 Aluminium chassis 301136 yet? It says it is for carpet, intrigued how it would go on med-high grip asphalt
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:16 AM   #1372
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Has anyone tried the new T4 Aluminium chassis 301136 yet? It says it is for carpet, intrigued how it would go on med-high grip asphalt
Don't think it's for asphalt.
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:32 AM   #1373
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i know its not meant for asphalt, just interested if anyone had tried it. Sick of ripping up carbon chassis edges, thought alu might be tougher and more wear resistant.
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:20 AM   #1374
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Fair enough, it would probley be to stiff.But worth a try. It's retails about 100 so could be an expensive upgrade.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:25 PM   #1375
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Need help...

I need a starting point for a final drive on a 120' x 60' for Blinky 13.5(D3.5). Also which spur/pinion combo to get me there?

Thanks for the help,
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:49 PM   #1376
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Bullets forwards or backwards? What say you all?

Hagberg was bullets back in his latest chassis focus. I usually run bullets back to keep wires short, but the weight isn't an issue in this car.

-Mike
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:56 PM   #1377
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Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
Hey man!

Trying to learn myself and wanted to ask you a couple questions about your setup.

Why do you choose not to run the foam inserts in the suspension?

And for your front roll center setup why do you have the FF on the outer most hole and the FR on the middle hole? What's the idea behind this?

Also I saw you are running 4.8mm front and 5.0mm rear ride height, I've always been told the minimum ride height is 5mm as that is what the rules are. What's the reason for running 4.8?

Cheers

Luke
Firstly, about the foam inserts. The last few years I've always run my car with as close to 0 or almost negative rebound in the shock in an effort to make the car more planted. The foam inserts add rebound and that wasn't something I was looking for at this race. Maybe on asphalt, but 0 rebound always feels best to me on carpet.

Second, the front roll center inserts were that way because I had added what's called arm sweep. Its like giving the front some inboard toe out, so when it dives down into the corner under braking it's more stable and easier to push.

Third, the ride height. When the ride height is tested, the procedure generally is to not set (push down) the suspension before the test. Now, if they were to explicitly say they were going to be setting the suspension, I'd run a lot higher ride height, but as long as they don't you can get away with a little bit under.

Hope this clears some things up.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:26 PM   #1378
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Excellent thanks Danny!
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:35 PM   #1379
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Bullets forwards or backwards? What say you all?

Hagberg was bullets back in his latest chassis focus. I usually run bullets back to keep wires short, but the weight isn't an issue in this car.

-Mike
Bullets in the rear is usually better on carpet.
Bullets in the front make the rear loser and is better on asphalt.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:37 PM   #1380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Bullets forwards or backwards? What say you all?

Hagberg was bullets back in his latest chassis focus. I usually run bullets back to keep wires short, but the weight isn't an issue in this car.

-Mike
I've always been under the impression it was more of a weight balance thing. The end with the bullets would be lighter as the packs are towards the opposite end. I've never really verified this so I don't know if thats 100% true. I guess it would be very easy to test with 4 scales. Just check the corner weights with the lipo both ways and see if there is any difference.

That being said, I always run mine with bullets back for the shorter cleaner wiring.
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