erchn

iTrader: (7)

Belts will always slip if there's even decent traction. Use a Sharpie, like a silver one, and mark the belt and the pulley, if they aren't slipping a notch or two here or there the belts are probably too tight.

Govert

Make sure your bearing holders are aligned properly. If not, do so.
Also, check for debris and stones like others said before. But first off, focus on the alignment. A small mistake is easy to make...

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

So the setup I came up with at PYC in Hong Kong apparently works well for 17.5 on our bumpy, high grip, very tight carpet track, with Sweep QTS32 and Jack. The only change I made (other than swapping out the motor) was going from 4mm bumpsteer spacers back to 1mm. I'm going to re-test that, though, since it feels just a touch too lazy.

I tried 2.5 rear toe at the beginning of practice, but the grip was still a bit low and the car was too touchy in the sweeper. I will re-test that next race, because I think when grip comes up for Q2 and the main, it might work and make the car a bit safer against traction roll.

I'm also going to do more testing with springs and maybe stiffer swaybars to see if I can reduce chassis rub further, because the bumps in the sweeper still unsettle the car a bit too much, which is where most of my mistakes come from. 2.9 front and 2.5 rear actually worked well last time out when I set the current TQ record, although I meant to be running 2.9 front and 2.7 rear that time (oops).

I wasn't quite able to re-set the TQ record, this time, due to too many mistakes, but I was within 1 second even after those mistakes. I discovered before the main that I had screwed up the ride height (4.5mm when it should be 5mm). Fixing that kept the car off the rug better, and made it much smoother and a tenth faster. I'm looking forward to next time out. If I can keep it clean, I should be able to drop a few more seconds.

Has anyone done some targeted testing with foam in the shock cap? I kind of randomly threw them in at PYC in Hong Kong, and left them last night (I didn't get around to touching the shocks, which they probably sorely need after the flight home in luggage). When I first put them in, I was surprised that they didn't seem to add rebound to the shock. So I'm not really sure what effect they're having.

I'm also wondering what to do with my front camber link. I'm currently running only 1mm on the outside for tire clearance, and still running 2mm on the inside. Dropping the outside from 2mm to 1mm will lower the roll center, and reduce camber gain on the front, right? If I lowered the inside to 1mm, that would give me the same camber gain as 2mm/2mm, but a higher roll center, right? But I don't really like the way the car feels with 1mm on the inside. It makes it a bit too aggressive and unpredictable.

Maybe I should just get the open cups. Does anyone have part numbers for that? Would I just use the same cup / ball as the outer tie rod, and then just use the appropriate length screw? Or does the open cup fit the kit ball?

EDIT: Actually, looking at the exploded diagram, it looks like I'd want the 302663 that's on the inner/outer tie rods, and that should fit the kit ball stud, since the inner tie rod also uses a 4.9mm ball stud. I wonder if I could just swap the cups between the outer front camber link and inner tie rod. I guess it might bind the steering up, though.

-Mike

chasingthepack

im from the uk what we call decent traction you call an ice rink,lol
yours is a better way to do it,thanks for the tip

chasingthepack

i took the foams out ,they would soak up oil and make the shocks feel sticky,i think this was due to the foam and oil blocking the air hole,i found them much smoother without the foams,no testing just what i found when i stripped them for rebuilding

Skiddins

Yep, you want 302663 and they do fit the kit ball ends.
You only need to fit them on the outside so they clear the wheel.


Skiddins

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. With 8 per package I can do both cars front + rear, too.

-Mike

lpittman

iTrader: (7)

Hey man!

Trying to learn myself and wanted to ask you a couple questions about your setup.

Why do you choose not to run the foam inserts in the suspension?

And for your front roll center setup why do you have the FF on the outer most hole and the FR on the middle hole? What's the idea behind this?

Also I saw you are running 4.8mm front and 5.0mm rear ride height, I've always been told the minimum ride height is 5mm as that is what the rules are. What's the reason for running 4.8?

Cheers

Luke

rcman24au

iTrader: (8)

Hi All im looking for the cheapest place to buy a T4 2014.Im in Australia
thanks for any help

Chris kal

Rc Market have it for $517 with free delivery

hyujmn

iTrader: (27)

The foam inserts are usually used to try and get X amount of rebound. In general, you want a shock with 0 rebound, and the inserts just get in the way. It's best not to use the inserts in order to get 0 rebound. Usually up to 10% rebound (rebound being how much the shock rod extends back out after pushing it in) is tolerable.

Having FF on the outer hole and FR on the middle hole creates arm sweep. Basically the arms are swept backwards a bit, adding inboard toe out. I'm still not 100% sure what sweep does, but I'm assuming it adds a bit of steering. According to some people, the change is very subtle but I know a couple of guys that run sweep on their cars too.

rcmax2

Northen Beaches Hobbies in Sydney are the Importer to Australia and great company to deal with.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

ARROWMAX New Product for T4'14

rcman24au

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys

bigtez

iTrader: (6)

Broke a rear belt on the weekend and need to order a replacement and spares. I notice on RCMarket they list the top, cso, HB and yokomo as being compatible with the T4. Are any of them better than the X-rays or at least of similar quality. I would rather pay less for one of the other brands than the exorbitant local Xray prices.