R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-12-2014, 12:52 PM   #1336
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Carrollton, TX
Posts: 902
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

You could also cut off the receiver ends and use a crimper
__________________
Xray | Airtronics | R1Wurks LiPo | Hobbywing
hyujmn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2014, 06:53 PM   #1337
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 328
Trader Rating: 3 (80%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Is it definitely a genuine T4?

Were the white plastic parts on a sprue like the normal black plastic shock parts?

Skiddins
Mine are white and it came from Gravity RC the beginning of janurary
traitor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 12:03 AM   #1338
Tech Addict
 
mschumi101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Chicago-land/U of Wisconsin-Madison
Posts: 719
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to mschumi101
Default

Hi guys, so I just bought an Xray, my first . Its the T4'13 with the ECS shafts. I have been racing onroad for 8 years, so Im not going to be crashing that often. But this is a big upgrade from my TC5's ive been running for the last 5-6 years. Im fairly good with set up, so there shouldn't be too much of a problem there. Im about halfway through reading the forum pages, So I guess what Im wondering is what I should look out for and expect?

Im also curious as to what spares, if any, you guys need? I will be running 17.5 Blinky. First, I am a little confused as to all of the arm choices. Im assuming they are interchangable between sides? Also what is the difference between the 1 and 2 hole arms? Is the former an inbetween hole? And lastly do components from the T3 series like castor, steering blocks, and rear hubs bolt on to the T4 cars? I have seen the new differences between the T4 and T4'14 arms.

Im really looking forward to a a great racing car thats finally in my favorite color! haha Thanks in advance
__________________
Associated B5M Reedy 7.5 | Xray T4 ORCA 17.5
Orange Powered!
Previous: B44.2 | TC5R | TC5 | B4.2 | B44 | Slash | E4RS | TA05R | TT01
-Ted
mschumi101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 12:19 AM   #1339
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

If you don't crash much, don't bother with spares. Maybe some spool cups just in case. All your assumptions about arms and T3 interchange are correct.
What surface / grip level / layout complexity will you be running?

Also, there's a separate thread for the T4'13 that is still pretty active.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 12:43 AM   #1340
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Canberra in Australia
Posts: 94
Default

help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you
Fly'n Fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 12:57 AM   #1341
Tech Elite
 
B00t13g's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,040
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default H

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you
I've had really good luck with the white belts. If you snapped a rear belt after 5 packs either you did something wrong, defect or something got into it. I had a screw go completely around my diff and damage the belt, but it was still functional. My point is, belts don't just break when new.
__________________
Mackenzie Meyercord
Rc America, Xray, MOTIV, Avid, Team EAM, Apex Rc Pro Shop, Pro Spec USA, Sanwa, RSD
B00t13g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 01:09 AM   #1342
Tech Fanatic
 
daleburr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oxfordshire, UK
Posts: 778
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you
BD7 rear belt is strong and cheap, ran one belt all of last year with no issues. The xray rear belt can be a weak point.

Front belt is usually okay as it takes less of the load under power.
__________________
Team Xray
RC-Timing Software - http://www.rc-timing.com
Mercedes AMG F1 - http://www.mercedes-amg-f1.com/
daleburr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 01:16 AM   #1343
Tech Fanatic
 
daleburr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oxfordshire, UK
Posts: 778
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
Hi guys, so I just bought an Xray, my first . Its the T4'13 with the ECS shafts. I have been racing onroad for 8 years, so Im not going to be crashing that often. But this is a big upgrade from my TC5's ive been running for the last 5-6 years. Im fairly good with set up, so there shouldn't be too much of a problem there. Im about halfway through reading the forum pages, So I guess what Im wondering is what I should look out for and expect?

Im also curious as to what spares, if any, you guys need? I will be running 17.5 Blinky. First, I am a little confused as to all of the arm choices. Im assuming they are interchangable between sides? Also what is the difference between the 1 and 2 hole arms? Is the former an inbetween hole? And lastly do components from the T3 series like castor, steering blocks, and rear hubs bolt on to the T4 cars? I have seen the new differences between the T4 and T4'14 arms.

Im really looking forward to a a great racing car thats finally in my favorite color! haha Thanks in advance
I dont think anyone ever uses the 2 hole arms, so i wouldnt worry about those. The kit 1 hole is between the 2 holes.

Kit plastics should be fine in most conditions too, unless you run in mega high grip or just have some money to burn for the graphite ones. Again no really uses the other hardnesses (other than the graphite arms).

All components are symmetrical apart from the castor blocks.
__________________
Team Xray
RC-Timing Software - http://www.rc-timing.com
Mercedes AMG F1 - http://www.mercedes-amg-f1.com/
daleburr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 01:42 AM   #1344
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 165
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you
I think the problem isn't the belt, but too much tension. I have to run new belts atleast one notch looser than initial/kit setting for them not to be too tight.
The only xray belt I broke was a rear one after 130 packs (30 modified and 100 stock).

Regards,
David
niemand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 01:53 AM   #1345
Tech Addict
 
chasingthepack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: hanworth uk
Posts: 728
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
help with belts!!!! I have snaped a brand new belt after about 5 battery packs in the brand new '14. It was the back one which I though might have been on the tight side, I guess I though about it too long. Any how, what can you guys recommend on belts? I noticed some trick looking white ones in the thread a while back they have to be awesome, but what's the best and strongest and where do you get 'em!

thank you
i snapped a rear recently but that was due to debris getting picked up and jamming in the drive teeth,also stones and sticks can get caught up under the diff and wear away at the belts,with the belt tightness,really you want them as loose as you can get them without them skipping teeth,in blinky my belts are very loose but for the faster motors they would get tightened, my belts flap about a bit but its the fastest car down the straight due to less drag,and with less drag it flows through chicanes better ,if you have ever used drag brake you can get a similar effect from overtight belts,which then can cause handling problems,such as the rear stepping out off power
__________________
yokomo bd7 16_lrp works team-trinity d4 17.5_futaba 4pks_futaba bls
wet/damp car xray t4-14-r10 pro-team wave 17.5 savox 1251
chasingthepack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:56 AM   #1346
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,529
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
Im also curious as to what spares, if any, you guys need? I will be running 17.5 Blinky. First, I am a little confused as to all of the arm choices. Im assuming they are interchangable between sides? Also what is the difference between the 1 and 2 hole arms? Is the former an inbetween hole? And lastly do components from the T3 series like castor, steering blocks, and rear hubs bolt on to the T4 cars? I have seen the new differences between the T4 and T4'14 arms.
The '14 front arms will not fit the T4'13 unless some material is filed away at the hinge pin. The mounting point for the front shock is also further forward on the '14 hinge pins

The rear arms would be fine.

The C-hubs, steering knuckles and hubs are all the same as the previous car.

Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RD Disco
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 04:04 AM   #1347
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Canberra in Australia
Posts: 94
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
i snapped a rear recently but that was due to debris getting picked up and jamming in the drive teeth,also stones and sticks can get caught up under the diff and wear away at the belts,with the belt tightness,really you want them as loose as you can get them without them skipping teeth,in blinky my belts are very loose but for the faster motors they would get tightened, my belts flap about a bit but its the fastest car down the straight due to less drag,and with less drag it flows through chicanes better ,if you have ever used drag brake you can get a similar effect from overtight belts,which then can cause handling problems,such as the rear stepping out off power
Thanks guys, i think that the belt was too tight and a stone or something got up into it. I have loosened the belts heaps and will see if i get belt slip, should be pretty obvious, no?
Fly'n Fish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 08:33 AM   #1348
Tech Addict
 
chasingthepack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: hanworth uk
Posts: 728
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
Thanks guys, i think that the belt was too tight and a stone or something got up into it. I have loosened the belts heaps and will see if i get belt slip, should be pretty obvious, no?
place the car down and try to spin the wheels(burnout) and if you hear clicking thats the belt slipping,push the front into the ground to check the front belt,and hold the rear wing to check the rear
__________________
yokomo bd7 16_lrp works team-trinity d4 17.5_futaba 4pks_futaba bls
wet/damp car xray t4-14-r10 pro-team wave 17.5 savox 1251
chasingthepack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 08:36 AM   #1349
Tech Addict
 
chasingthepack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: hanworth uk
Posts: 728
Default

has anyone tried to get the graphite plates to work with the 13 ? i was going to drill the arms and fit a set,they seem to line up ok and there is just enough material to drill into
__________________
yokomo bd7 16_lrp works team-trinity d4 17.5_futaba 4pks_futaba bls
wet/damp car xray t4-14-r10 pro-team wave 17.5 savox 1251
chasingthepack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 09:05 AM   #1350
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
has anyone tried to get the graphite plates to work with the 13 ? i was going to drill the arms and fit a set,they seem to line up ok and there is just enough material to drill into
I plan to update my '13 car with '14 arm and just remove the extra material on the new arms inner hinge pin to make them fit. The extra material that moves the shock forward is fine with me since I shim mine forward already. Then I can use the plates with no worries.
__________________
www.teamgravityrc.com
Leisure Hours Raceway
Troy Carter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:43 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0