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Old 02-09-2014, 09:48 PM   #1306
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Orca VXX
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:49 PM   #1307
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Which one should I go with?
Orca VXX. I switched from the r10 to orca and it's been the best choice. It's so much smoother then the r10. You can't go wrong with either,but the orca is much better.
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:04 AM   #1308
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Were you using the T4 bumper? Mine is a T3 bumper thats cut down to the same thickness as a T4 bumper. So It's much firmer.
Yes it was a firm bumper, it seemed like a good idea at the time, not so good when I had to buy a new transponder because the wire got cut where they exit the epoxy that coats the curcuit board, couldn't solder them back on.

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Old 02-10-2014, 05:29 AM   #1309
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Anyone else got rim rub on the front top ball joint? I put a set of muchmore wheels and tyres on and have almost full contact! Half an hour with a blade has them nicely clear but surely this is not common to all wheells. I have 2mm shims under the joints by the way....
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:49 AM   #1310
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Anyone else got rim rub on the front top ball joint? I put a set of muchmore wheels and tyres on and have almost full contact! Half an hour with a blade has them nicely clear but surely this is not common to all wheells. I have 2mm shims under the joints by the way....
Yes had the same problem with Revlite wheels which the Sorex come mounted on. Ive changed mine to the open type which I think was posted earlier in this thread.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:51 AM   #1311
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Which one should I go with?
i have 2 R10 pro's ones in my sons car,and i tqed yesterday against mostly the hobbywing v3 and the reventon pro,still more punch than the others,havnt been up against the vxx,but the orion is still a very smooth and competative esc,and they have just brought out a new version of it,mines the 160amp 2/3 s,and i have used it in boosted as well as stock ,the orion really likes the lrp x20 motors,didnt do as well with the gm motors though,these have both been in use for 12 months without an issue
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:22 AM   #1312
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I'm building a new T4'14 I picked up in Hong Kong a couple weeks ago. A couple differences are that the shock pistons and shaft guides are a white plastic now, and they have different screws for the wheel hexes that seem to be much better.

-Mike
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Old 02-11-2014, 03:49 AM   #1313
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Originally Posted by Fly'n Fish View Post
Anyone else got rim rub on the front top ball joint? I put a set of muchmore wheels and tyres on and have almost full contact! Half an hour with a blade has them nicely clear but surely this is not common to all wheells. I have 2mm shims under the joints by the way....
You can use the open ball joints instead of the closed ones and it should be fine even with 3mm shim.
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:05 AM   #1314
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You can use the open ball joints instead of the closed ones and it should be fine even with 3mm shim.
I wonder why xray bother with the closed ones seeing as they cause such problems?
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:38 AM   #1315
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm building a new T4'14 I picked up in Hong Kong a couple weeks ago. A couple differences are that the shock pistons and shaft guides are a white plastic now, and they have different screws for the wheel hexes that seem to be much better.

-Mike
Is it definitely a genuine T4?

Were the white plastic parts on a sprue like the normal black plastic shock parts?

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Old 02-11-2014, 05:54 AM   #1316
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Is it definitely a genuine T4?

Were the white plastic parts on a sprue like the normal black plastic shock parts?

Skiddins
Mine were white as well, and it came from RCDisco. Think they've made a running change.

They're still moulded.

It does make it easier to build the shocks as you can see dirt/air inside the shocks a lot easier.
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:43 AM   #1317
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Mine were white as well, and it came from RCDisco. Think they've made a running change.

They're still moulded.

It does make it easier to build the shocks as you can see dirt/air inside the shocks a lot easier.
I was hoping it was a change to machined nylon pistons instead of items you have to cut out carefully.

I use RSD pistons in mine for that reason.

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Old 02-11-2014, 09:42 AM   #1318
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As far as I can tell, it's genuine. It's got the authenticity cert and the seal on the box and xray written all over all the bags, same plastic as xray parts I've bought in the US, same packed by labels and moisture sheets, perfect fit and finish, etc. But all 3 of my xrays came from that shop, so...

Anyway, the shock parts are still molded. I'm not sure if it's a new mold, though. I haven't compared the sprue. The old mold was one of each piston and the shaft guides per sprue, and you get 4 sprues, right?

-Mike
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:00 AM   #1319
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
As far as I can tell, it's genuine. It's got the authenticity cert and the seal on the box and xray written all over all the bags, same plastic as xray parts I've bought in the US, same packed by labels and moisture sheets, perfect fit and finish, etc. But all 3 of my xrays came from that shop, so...

Anyway, the shock parts are still molded. I'm not sure if it's a new mold, though. I haven't compared the sprue. The old mold was one of each piston and the shaft guides per sprue, and you get 4 sprues, right?

-Mike
I can't remember exactly but that does sound correct.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:13 PM   #1320
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I can't remember exactly but that does sound correct.
are you having to swim home yet? datchet looks horrendous on the news
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