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Old 01-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #1126
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Originally Posted by Breakin2 View Post
Nope. I have a T4 2014. Figure it made more sense here.
i thought vta was supposed to be at the cheaper end of the sport ,why take a full on race car to go shopping,beats me!
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:33 PM   #1127
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i thought vta was supposed to be at the cheaper end of the sport ,why take a full on race car to go shopping,beats me!
To go shopping? Huh?
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:34 PM   #1128
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Not many people in here run their '14 in VTA. That why he asked if you asked on the VTA thread. With the differences in sedan and VTA that thread will give you more info. Does your track run an FDR limit? Best place to start would be a 4.0 FDR if there is no limit and go from there. Track size and layout all have an affect on what gearing you will run. You didn't even say what spur gear your running and that is a big factor. Start out with 64p 100/47 and go from there. Checking temps at 2 min.
Thanks! I appreciate it!
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:50 PM   #1129
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NEW upper deck for Xray T4 2013/2014, coming up in FEB 2014


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Old 01-26-2014, 07:38 PM   #1130
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I would buy some thicker rear roll bars to experiment with (i have some 1.3 & 1.4's) and also test with less rear toe as well.
Looks like a very nice track with plenty of grip to me

Skiddins
I definitely want to try the thicker rear bars, but they weren't in stock. Hopefully they'll come in soon so I can try them. I also want to try 6* caster blocks and split FR mounts, neither of which I had access to.

I didn't think less toe would be good at PYC, so I didn't try it. I may try it at Jordan Valley, but I don't want to lose forward bite. I'm struggling to put power down there as it is.

Would you suggest going wider on RF or narrower on RR as a starting point? And would you move arm shims to compensate?

-Mike
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:36 AM   #1131
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I definitely want to try the thicker rear bars, but they weren't in stock. Hopefully they'll come in soon so I can try them. I also want to try 6* caster blocks and split FR mounts, neither of which I had access to.

I didn't think less toe would be good at PYC, so I didn't try it. I may try it at Jordan Valley, but I don't want to lose forward bite. I'm struggling to put power down there as it is.

Would you suggest going wider on RF or narrower on RR as a starting point? And would you move arm shims to compensate?

-Mike
The only one I've tried so far is wider at RF.

I have a pair of split front blocks, but haven't had the chance to run them yet, those that have say they gave more steering, but reduced initial.

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Old 01-27-2014, 06:12 AM   #1132
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The only one I've tried so far is wider at RF.

I have a pair of split front blocks, but haven't had the chance to run them yet, those that have say they gave more steering, but reduced initial.

Skiddins
Thanks, Skiddins.

I did some running today at the Jordan Valley track.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...t=video%2c.mp4

The only timing was the lap timer in my radio, so it was a bit tougher to be sure changes were good. I was also only running 4 minutes at a time to get two runs per battery, since there's no power at the track.

I started with my setup from PYC, but with 0.5* less camber. The car was definitely better than what I had ended up with last week. I first tried short links, and that gave some much needed side bite, but I could initiate a bit too much rotation. So I removed the screw from the top deck post, and that was just right. I then removed the front arm plates to get a bit more front grip mid corner. Then I stood the rear shock up to get even more mid, but the rear was a bit sketchy, so I also removed the rear arm plates. All those changes were mostly for feel and consistency. I think I found a few tenths with them as well, but like I said, timing wasn't very accurate. At this point I was decently happy with the car.

Then I changed the RR from center to 0.5 in. I didn't change wheelbase shims. That made a noticeable improvement in feel and on the clock by about 2-3 tenths. I was afraid I'd lose forward bite, but because the car was finishing the corner so much better, I could actually get on the throttle much earlier with much better exit speed. I could carry a lot more speed through the corner, too. I thought the rear felt maybe a little light, so I tried laying the rear shock back down one hole, but that made it slower and lost the on-power steering, so I'm going to put that back.

That's as far as I got with the batteries I brought, so I'll try more tomorrow.

I picked up a 1.4 rear swaybar. 1.3 didn't come in stock. But I have a 1.5 front I can pair it with. I think I'll focus on springs and sways tomorrow. Maybe mess with camber a bit more, too, but the surface is pretty abrasive, and I'm pretty happy with the way the tires are wearing, so I'll leave it for now.

Is there anything to be inferred from the tires making a squealing sound as you come down to the apex? It only happens when the car is working well and I'm going fast.

-Mike
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:57 AM   #1133
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Thanks, Skiddins.

I did some running today at the Jordan Valley track.

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...t=video%2c.mp4

The only timing was the lap timer in my radio, so it was a bit tougher to be sure changes were good. I was also only running 4 minutes at a time to get two runs per battery, since there's no power at the track.

I started with my setup from PYC, but with 0.5* less camber. The car was definitely better than what I had ended up with last week. I first tried short links, and that gave some much needed side bite, but I could initiate a bit too much rotation. So I removed the screw from the top deck post, and that was just right. I then removed the front arm plates to get a bit more front grip mid corner. Then I stood the rear shock up to get even more mid, but the rear was a bit sketchy, so I also removed the rear arm plates. All those changes were mostly for feel and consistency. I think I found a few tenths with them as well, but like I said, timing wasn't very accurate. At this point I was decently happy with the car.

Then I changed the RR from center to 0.5 in. I didn't change wheelbase shims. That made a noticeable improvement in feel and on the clock by about 2-3 tenths. I was afraid I'd lose forward bite, but because the car was finishing the corner so much better, I could actually get on the throttle much earlier with much better exit speed. I could carry a lot more speed through the corner, too. I thought the rear felt maybe a little light, so I tried laying the rear shock back down one hole, but that made it slower and lost the on-power steering, so I'm going to put that back.

That's as far as I got with the batteries I brought, so I'll try more tomorrow.

I picked up a 1.4 rear swaybar. 1.3 didn't come in stock. But I have a 1.5 front I can pair it with. I think I'll focus on springs and sways tomorrow. Maybe mess with camber a bit more, too, but the surface is pretty abrasive, and I'm pretty happy with the way the tires are wearing, so I'll leave it for now.

Is there anything to be inferred from the tires making a squealing sound as you come down to the apex? It only happens when the car is working well and I'm going fast.

-Mike
Might be worth trying a 1.3 front roll bar as well.
Rear toe is a funny thing, although you think it will make the car loose it can sometimes allow so much more corner speed as the car should be less stuck through the corner.
Don't forget that less rear toe also equals less drag in a straight line

Squealing tyres means they're doing their job, provided you're not overheating them it's a good sign
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:41 AM   #1134
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guys

any ideal i could use t4 2014 motor mount on my t4 2013?


yiming
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:10 AM   #1135
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Originally Posted by SniperWJ View Post
guys

any ideal i could use t4 2014 motor mount on my t4 2013?


yiming
Yes you can, I did it before converting to T4 14

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Old 01-27-2014, 08:17 AM   #1136
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martin

tks ! your answer save me $26.50!

im on my way convert one of my 2013 to 2014 i figureout i dont need to bother with the motor mount if only run it with small pinon gear.

yiming
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:38 AM   #1137
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Are the 14 arms the same as the 13 arms, besides the mounting holes for the plates? Also, are the 13 and 14 top decks the same too?
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:45 AM   #1138
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top deck not same
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:55 AM   #1139
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The arms are different. The new arms can be used on the older car with 2mm of shims but the older arms wont work on the new car. The top decks are different only where the center post mounts. If you don't plan on using the center post then you can use the older top deck.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:31 AM   #1140
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
The arms are different. The new arms can be used on the older car with 2mm of shims but the older arms wont work on the new car. The top decks are different only where the center post mounts. If you don't plan on using the center post then you can use the older top deck.
It's the other way around.

The old FRONT arms can be used on the New T4 2014 by adding 2mm shims. The New FRONT arms will not fit the old car, you'll need to modify them, I don't recommend it (grinding etc.).
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