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Old 01-23-2014, 05:50 PM   #1081
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I know that the suspension arms, FF FR RF & RR arm mounts, chassis plate, top plate is different. RC Mart's price just on the chassis and top plate is $108.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:59 PM   #1082
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Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I know that the suspension arms, FF FR RF & RR arm mounts, chassis plate, top plate is different. RC Mart's price just on the chassis and top plate is $108.
Yeah I was looking on RCmart and didn't see even half of what would be needed. I know the steering plate, motor mount, and some of the ball studs are different as well. I can't imagine it being done for only $130 usd.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:04 PM   #1083
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sometimes people convert a few components and call it done.

Perhaps he skipped the chassis and top deck?
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:03 PM   #1084
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Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
I have convert my T4 to T4'14 with original Xray parts and it cost me around
130 USD and delivered by RCmart HK.
I must say my T4'13 was in good chape, and i did compete with it in and outdoor in the 13.5 class.
As my T4'13 was wear out then I buy the 14.
If I sold my T4'13 it cost a lot more to get me a T4'14.
Thank you for your insite. Mine is in great shape too with some scratches underneath from running on asphalt. I wish it was easier and cheaper to convert the car, but that is how this sport goes. You have to spend money to have fun and keep up with the Jones. I think I might go with the RSD conversion as it looks to be roughly the same as what Xray came out with minus the little goodies. The conversion is only $180 which I can justify spending.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:29 PM   #1085
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Yeah I was looking on RCmart and didn't see even half of what would be needed. I know the steering plate, motor mount, and some of the ball studs are different as well. I can't imagine it being done for only $130 usd.
I bought a '14 for stock and loved it so much I converted my '13 mod car to '14
It cost me about $170 inc shipping, way cheaper than a new kit and way less hasle than selling and buying new.

I needed to put in an order at 2 online stores for all of the parts to be in stock, but that didn't bother me too much.

I didn't buy the top deck, only chassis, arm mounts, front arms, pins, layshaft bulk heads. Car works perfect.
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:10 AM   #1086
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AFAIK:
Chassis plate
Top deck
Arm mounts
Front arms
Rear arms
Motor mount
Layshaft mounts
Steering plate
Ball studs

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:13 AM   #1087
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Don't forget inner hingepins.
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:34 AM   #1088
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I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.

Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost

Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.

But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.

The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:00 AM   #1089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.

Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost

Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.

But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.

The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.

-Mike
I'd change the shell as first port of call if you've got understeer everywhere. An LTCR will liven it up.
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:23 AM   #1090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
I'd change the shell as first port of call if you've got understeer everywhere. An LTCR will liven it up.
True. I'm trying to avoid painting while I'm on vacation, though. But now that you mention it, the guys that are going faster are running other bodies. How do the blitz TSX and WRX compare to the ltc-r and the mazdaspeed 6? I'd love to try a speed 6 gx, but I don't think I can find one.

EDIT: what about moving weight toward the rear?

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:44 AM   #1091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
True. I'm trying to avoid painting while I'm on vacation, though. But now that you mention it, the guys that are going faster are running other bodies. How do the blitz TSX and WRX compare to the ltc-r and the mazdaspeed 6? I'd love to try a speed 6 gx, but I don't think I can find one.

EDIT: what about moving weight toward the rear?

-Mike
TSX is more aggressive than the PF Speed6, not sure how it compares with the LTC-R as I haven't run one in months.
Try leaning your rear shocks in one hole to position 1 or 2.
Stiffer rear springs
It's dependant on the track but I've not liked heavy shock oil on either of the T4's, 350-450 on asphalt.

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Old 01-24-2014, 04:31 AM   #1092
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Default Front gear diff

Has anyone tried a front gear diff in their t4 14?
I'm after som more steering on power and would be nice a little more of power?
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:11 AM   #1093
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Originally Posted by jont View Post
Has anyone tried a front gear diff in their t4 14?
I'm after som more steering on power and would be nice a little more of power?
When I tried it on med-high grip carpet, I lost on power steering. That was with 2.5M.

What are you running in the rear diff? The car has responded well to rear diff changes for me. Thicker = more stable on entry, and more on-power steering.

-Mike
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:15 AM   #1094
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Just running the kit oil at mo, only had the car a couple of weeks so just trying lost of things and seeing what works
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:45 AM   #1095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm looking for suggestions to gain steering everywhere on a large, fast, low grip asphalt track, without killing the tires. I've tried a bunch of things with gemoetry. Some have helped a bit. But I think my overall issue is probably tires at this point.

Rough setup:
Kit springs, assoc 40f/37.5r (it's possible I accidentally swapped shocka front to rear, though)
Medium links, Front 1mm in and out, rear 2mm in and 4mm out
FF .5 out, FR center, RF .5 up, RR .5 up
1mm ackerman
Front arms forward
4mm bump steer
-1.5 camber
A pinch of toe out front (eyeballed)
Front spool, rear 2000
Mazdaspeed 6
5.5 with boost

Before, the rear mounts were .5 out. I think .5 up is better, but I'm just not sure. Front sweep seems good. I first tried just the FF change. Then I took it out again after other changes (just to see). Then I added it back in with arms forward to try and isolate it more, and I don't think it was as good.

But the tires take long enough to get heat, it's really hard to gauge the changes.

The big thing I haven't messed with yet is springs and shock angles.

-Mike
Outside I took a liking to the harder 2.5-2.8 progressive springs all around and 35f/32.5r associated oil when grip was OK. I ran 2.3's all around in really low grip with 30w rear oil. I also ran 3k in the rear diff, any lighter in mod on the big track and the rear was just too locked in.

Is the front of your body as low as possible? On those big tracks running fast it matters and can generate noticeably more steering if it's right on the deck.

Moving weight around can be a trade off. Move it back and the car should have better initial turn in but won't weight the front and turn well mid turn.
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