Originally Posted by morgoth
For more incorner steering, you can use a short rear link. Also I don't like the car with 1mm shims or less on the rear bulkhead. I prefer 1.5mm-2.0mm depending on the track/tires. Going lower than 1.5mm makes the car very aggressive and it feels like the rear is loose. It's okay to run this in stock classes, but in modified it takes too much stability away imo. You should try that and see if you like that better
Interesting. The car actually rotates pretty quickly in the tight corners. It's just sluggish in the transitions (mostly that little sequece onto the straight). I'll try raising the rear link a bit after I try a few of the other basics (shocks/diff/droop).
Originally Posted by scoyle
Unless your track is very high grip I would go back to the shorter upper roll centre.
Lay the front shocks down to second hole from the inside.
Add the 2mm shim at the top of the front shocks.
These changes aim to get the car feeling consistent.
Then to get the car to finish the corner better;
Rear diff to 2k possibly 3k depending on your driving style
1.3 rear roll bar
Thanks. Normally our grip comes up quite a bit for the mains. The Mi5's are normally flipping over.
That's why I think maybe my tires were bushed, or just under-sauced (I took it easy on the sauce for the main).
Links: With the '13 I preferred middle links. Last time I ran short links, the car was just waaaay too hyperactive on corner entry. But that might have been with the stiffer springs. I'll definitely try the short ones again.
Front Shock Angle: I'll try that a bit later. With the 2.5's, I think laying the front shock down a hole will just destroy the turn-in response.
Front Shock Shim: Yeah, I should probably do that. :/
Rear Diff: Top of my list. The diff feels quite a bit freer than the rear diff in my '13 that has AE 2K or 3K in it.
Rear Bar: I've seen a lot of setups with that lately. I don't have any bars, though, unfortunately. Perhaps I'll grab some 1.3mm music wire from the hobby shop. I think standing up the rear shock one hole, or maybe going to a 2.5-2.8 would help. It's not horrible right now, though, so I'm going to just start with the diff.
Originally Posted by scoyle
I don't know what front anti dive will do or the theory on it - I have always run hinge pins level front and rear on the T4.
It keeps the front end from diving so much. Every time I've run the 2.5 front spings in mod (or the 2.7 on the '13), the front end of the car completely washes out under braking (coming off the sweeper mostly). The anti-dive seems to have helped that and made the car more precise on turn-in. I'm going to keep it for now, but will revisit it when I start messing with springs again.
Although with the anti-dive, I've given up some caster and added even more bump-out on compression. I wish I had some 6* caster blocks to try.