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Old 11-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #616
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Default Hadberg setup

anyone know where I can find Hadbergs sorex setup ?
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:53 PM   #617
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anyone know where I can find Hadbergs sorex setup ?
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:07 AM   #618
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anyone know where I can find Hadbergs sorex setup ?
here ya go,i tried this set up and found the rear loose,change the droop settings and itll be better,but for medium grip i would try at least 3deg of rear toe in



http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...icars20131026/
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:43 AM   #619
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Can someone confirm how the kit track width compares to the T4'13, in overall width at each end and the distance between the pivot pins (across the chassis, not the inner pivot pin to outer pin).

My old T4 now has an RX4 conversion so I can't measure it at all.

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:03 AM   #620
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Can someone confirm how the kit track width compares to the T4'13, in overall width at each end and the distance between the pivot pins (across the chassis, not the inner pivot pin to outer pin).

My old T4 now has an RX4 conversion so I can't measure it at all.

Thanks
Skiddins
I think you're asking for '13 measurements. If so, to the center of the pins with stock settings:
Front: 45.3mm
Rear front, measured just behind arm holder: 40mm
Rear rear: measured just in ahead of arm holder: 43.3mm

For the rear widths, remember that the pin lengths are shorter on the t4 '14, so there will be some small variance, when measured. I suppose you could measure at the center of the rear pin, which I didn't do, but using math we should have 41.65mm at the center.

Edit: I just measured to the outside of the pins with calipers, and subtracted 3mm to get center of pin.
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Last edited by erchn; 11-11-2013 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Clarify how I measured.
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Can someone confirm how the kit track width compares to the T4'13, in overall width at each end and the distance between the pivot pins (across the chassis, not the inner pivot pin to outer pin).

My old T4 now has an RX4 conversion so I can't measure it at all.

Thanks
Skiddins
the t4 rear outer hinge pin to the outer hinge pin with 3degrees is 149mm,to the outside edge of the hexs its 170mm
the rear inner pins are 45mm center to center

the 14 rear outer pins are 151 with .5 out each side
hex to hex is 168
and the center pins are 47mm again with .5 out
bottom shock mount measuered on inner edge of 3mm socket is, t4 120.5 14 121.5mm
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:23 AM   #622
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Orange Color Belt Tensioner
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:31 AM   #623
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OK, front is 46.3mm measured at the first 1mm shim on the pivot pin (can't be bothered to dismantle it all) with kit settings.

I make the RF 40.5mm measured the same way (can't get at the rear pins but if the toe is the same we can assume the measurement is consistent with having shorter pins etc)

So this tells us the T4'14 front is 1mm wider at the inner pivot pins than the old car.

While the rear is 0.5mm wider than the old car.

All the above is assuming kit settings on the old, and new, car.

Can someone please check I've gotten this correct.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:36 AM   #624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
OK, front is 46.3mm measured at the first 1mm shim on the pivot pin (can't be bothered to dismantle it all) with kit settings.

I make the RF 40.5mm measured the same way (can't get at the rear pins but if the toe is the same we can assume the measurement is consistent with having shorter pins etc)

So this tells us the T4'14 front is 1mm wider at the inner pivot pins than the old car.

While the rear is 0.5mm wider than the old car.

All the above is assuming kit settings on the old, and new, car.

Can someone please check I've gotten this correct.
Looks right to me.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:47 PM   #625
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here ya go,i tried this set up and found the rear loose,change the droop settings and itll be better,but for medium grip i would try at least 3deg of rear toe in



http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...icars20131026/
Thank you
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:41 AM   #626
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How many guys actually sand and/or glue the carbon edges?, never really done it before, but I know from past cars sharp edges do tend to chip, where as rounded off a little may stop that happening, as may the glue, though it just always seems like too much work to me.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:59 AM   #627
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How many guys actually sand and/or glue the carbon edges?, never really done it before, but I know from past cars sharp edges do tend to chip, where as rounded off a little may stop that happening, as may the glue, though it just always seems like too much work to me.
I sand the edges lightly (600 grit sandpaper), clean the remaining dust with rubbing alcohol, let the edges dry, and treat the edges with blue loctite (applied with a cotton swab). I also use the loctite on the unfinished countersunk holes to prevent splintering. Total time invested is roughly 15 minutes for all of the carbon found in your typical TC kit. Many people go the extra mile and polish the edges, but I generally don't find that level of detail necessary.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #628
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Default Yokomo Blue

Hi

Can you tell me witch XRAY T4 springs similar to the Yokomo blue spring in hardness and characteristic?
At my local track many guys use the Yokomo blue all around for LRP CPX

Thank you!
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:49 AM   #629
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Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
How many guys actually sand and/or glue the carbon edges?, never really done it before, but I know from past cars sharp edges do tend to chip, where as rounded off a little may stop that happening, as may the glue, though it just always seems like too much work to me.
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0

I follow this.

It took me all of about 45 minutes. I started with 180 grit emery cloth. Made two good passes over the chassis. Washed off carbon dust dried and Glued With Loc-Tite brand glue. Once dry I did just a quick wet sand of the glue with 600 grit. I actually did that holding the chassis over the sink.

One trick I have always done is to before glueing...take a black Sharpie and go around the edge and the screw holes. Once the Glue dries and is sanded. The black sharpie makes the edge a good looking glossy Black paint look.

I would suggest taking the time to do the chassis prep.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #630
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I used to do all the sanding, buffing and polishing to a high shine to the chassis edges and shock towers. Now I don't. Basically a waste of time. The only one who really notices, or even cares frankly, is you.
I now just lightly sand, and put a thin coat of CA and call it good.
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