Xray T4'14
#331
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I'm sure Yokomo has their reasons for saying 90* to link, and I'm sure Xray has their reasons for saying 90* to chassis. The way I think about it is that if the endpoints are substantially different from left to right, then something is clearly working substantially different from left to right. If the endpoints are more even, then that must mean things are working the same in both directions. However, I could easily imagine that even with even end-points, something else strange could be going on, like effectively having positive expo in one direction and negative expo in the other.
-Mike
#332
See you Sunday. What's your real name skiddins?
#335
....
Just got my '14 today ...I'm pumped
#336
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I started building my t4 tonight and have a few things id like to share.
First off the new suspension holders are awesome! I thought my arms were free before, but with the new holders it's on a whole other level of smooth! The recessed motor mount is great as I will no longer have to shave rotors to keep them from hitting the battery. The car builds like an xray, perfect. Everything is in it's place in an attractive package and will function flawless as they always do. I truly enjoy building xray cars as they build logically. I can not wait to get this thing on the track next week.
First off the new suspension holders are awesome! I thought my arms were free before, but with the new holders it's on a whole other level of smooth! The recessed motor mount is great as I will no longer have to shave rotors to keep them from hitting the battery. The car builds like an xray, perfect. Everything is in it's place in an attractive package and will function flawless as they always do. I truly enjoy building xray cars as they build logically. I can not wait to get this thing on the track next week.
#339
Just finished building my T4 14 and it was faultless no forward backward movement in the arms and none of the wheel hexs stripped.
As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).
Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.
If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.
Mike
As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).
Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.
If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.
Mike
#340
Just finished building my T4 14 and it was faultless no forward backward movement in the arms and none of the wheel hexs stripped.
As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).
Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.
If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.
Mike
As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).
Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.
If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.
Mike
The chances of the EPA's being identical each side is actually very remote as there will be play and tolerance differences in all the ball joints etc.
#341
Surely if you adjust the steering rods AFTER you've set the toe etc surely you're going to make the toe settings etc different each side
The chances of the EPA's being identical each side is actually very remote as there will be play and tolerance differences in all the ball joints etc.
The chances of the EPA's being identical each side is actually very remote as there will be play and tolerance differences in all the ball joints etc.
#342
#344
Order the bumper brace etc and a few bits of bling to help take your mind off it
#345
I can read the instructions and everyone's opinions on here about the correct way to setup the steering. I have tried following the manual by setting the saver at 90 and also followed the 90 degree to the link method.
I suggest you try it both ways and see what you like.
For me, I could never get even endpoints with my saver at 90 degrees. They were over 30 points apart (T3 with a savox servo). When I adjusted using the formula I posted a few posts back I am able to get my endpoints to exactly the same. Not sure the degrees between the saver and the chassis but it is less than 90.
I also know that I am no way near good enough to really feel a difference but in my head at least the car feels a bit more predictable from left to right. Every car I setup will be this way from now on. It just works, for me. I have found that I need to trim the drag link length down quite a bit.
I suggest you try it both ways and see what you like.
For me, I could never get even endpoints with my saver at 90 degrees. They were over 30 points apart (T3 with a savox servo). When I adjusted using the formula I posted a few posts back I am able to get my endpoints to exactly the same. Not sure the degrees between the saver and the chassis but it is less than 90.
I also know that I am no way near good enough to really feel a difference but in my head at least the car feels a bit more predictable from left to right. Every car I setup will be this way from now on. It just works, for me. I have found that I need to trim the drag link length down quite a bit.