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Old 10-17-2013, 02:43 PM   #331
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
if you think about it,the servo is irrelevant,the saver needs to be at a 90 to the link rod to achieve equal motion each way
I want to see a graph of servo rotation vs. steering rack movement, for both left and right, for various configurations of the saver and link length. I'm not exactly sure what the easiest way to generate that data would be, though. I imagine there has to be a mathematical or CAD way to do it. I suppose I could just use radio trim and a setup station to take samples of inside and outside steering angle and put it into excel.

I'm sure Yokomo has their reasons for saying 90* to link, and I'm sure Xray has their reasons for saying 90* to chassis. The way I think about it is that if the endpoints are substantially different from left to right, then something is clearly working substantially different from left to right. If the endpoints are more even, then that must mean things are working the same in both directions. However, I could easily imagine that even with even end-points, something else strange could be going on, like effectively having positive expo in one direction and negative expo in the other.

-Mike
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:56 PM   #332
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The point of the spacer hitting the steering arms is to limit lock to ensure good corner speed and less scrub, ideally you need to make changes to your setup to get the steering by other means.

James, I'll be at CIWC in 13.5 on Sunday as well, but running the new car
I never thought about that being the case so I will be putting the original spacer back tomorrow. My original set up was lacking steering but now thanks to Chris Baker my car is dialled.
See you Sunday. What's your real name skiddins?
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:21 PM   #333
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My 14 is now in my hands
Just finished mine. Going to hit the track tonight.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:10 PM   #334
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Just finished mine. Going to hit the track tonight.
Car felt good. Better with a few changes for our track. Feels much easier to drive.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:01 PM   #335
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Just got my '14 today ...I'm pumped
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:01 AM   #336
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I started building my t4 tonight and have a few things id like to share.
First off the new suspension holders are awesome! I thought my arms were free before, but with the new holders it's on a whole other level of smooth! The recessed motor mount is great as I will no longer have to shave rotors to keep them from hitting the battery. The car builds like an xray, perfect. Everything is in it's place in an attractive package and will function flawless as they always do. I truly enjoy building xray cars as they build logically. I can not wait to get this thing on the track next week.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:05 AM   #337
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Ok, so who skipped the chassis sanding and CA-ing? Debating whether I should go back and do that before I install electronics...

-Mike
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:14 AM   #338
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Ok, so who skipped the chassis sanding and CA-ing? Debating whether I should go back and do that before I install electronics...

-Mike
I sand the chassis edges to smooth them out, but I have never sealed a chassis.
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:26 AM   #339
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Just finished building my T4 14 and it was faultless no forward backward movement in the arms and none of the wheel hexs stripped.

As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).

Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.

If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.

Mike
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:06 AM   #340
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Originally Posted by Mikkel_R View Post
Just finished building my T4 14 and it was faultless no forward backward movement in the arms and none of the wheel hexs stripped.

As for the steering I set the toe to what I require ensuring the left and right steering arms are equal length. Then set the servo horn to 90 degrees to the chassis (with transmitter trim) and then set the steering rod so the wheel are dead ahead (with the correct toe).

Set the transmitter to 100% left and right end points (EPA) and 100% dual rate (DR). I check full lock left to right checking how far the arms are away form the end stops. If they are not equal I adjust the steering rod length not the EPA on the transmitter. As I adjust the steering rod I trim the servo to make sure the wheels stay dead ahead. To get equal lock left to right if everything is set at the same length and equal rates the servo horn sits at about 85 degrees to the chassis on my car and I have no problems with unbalanced steering or reaching the end stops.

If it makes any difference I run a Sanwa 801 servo and around 90% DR.

Mike
Surely if you adjust the steering rods AFTER you've set the toe etc surely you're going to make the toe settings etc different each side

The chances of the EPA's being identical each side is actually very remote as there will be play and tolerance differences in all the ball joints etc.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:32 AM   #341
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Surely if you adjust the steering rods AFTER you've set the toe etc surely you're going to make the toe settings etc different each side

The chances of the EPA's being identical each side is actually very remote as there will be play and tolerance differences in all the ball joints etc.
Adjust the steering rod (from the servo) not the track rods. The rack shouldn't move just the servo and steering rod length.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:47 AM   #342
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Originally Posted by Mikkel_R View Post
Adjust the steering rod (from the servo) not the track rods. The rack shouldn't move just the servo and steering rod length.
Sorry, thought you meant the link to the wheel hub
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:17 AM   #343
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Just found out today, Australian stock that was due in Monday/Tuesday, now not due to like Friday next week... :-(

I'm not good at waiting when I decide I want something, it's going to be a long week...
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:39 AM   #344
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Just found out today, Australian stock that was due in Monday/Tuesday, now not due to like Friday next week... :-(

I'm not good at waiting when I decide I want something, it's going to be a long week...
Order the bumper brace etc and a few bits of bling to help take your mind off it
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:02 AM   #345
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I can read the instructions and everyone's opinions on here about the correct way to setup the steering. I have tried following the manual by setting the saver at 90 and also followed the 90 degree to the link method.

I suggest you try it both ways and see what you like.

For me, I could never get even endpoints with my saver at 90 degrees. They were over 30 points apart (T3 with a savox servo). When I adjusted using the formula I posted a few posts back I am able to get my endpoints to exactly the same. Not sure the degrees between the saver and the chassis but it is less than 90.

I also know that I am no way near good enough to really feel a difference but in my head at least the car feels a bit more predictable from left to right. Every car I setup will be this way from now on. It just works, for me. I have found that I need to trim the drag link length down quite a bit.
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