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Old 10-15-2013, 11:27 AM   #286
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Thanks for reply. Thats a pity, we use 0 or .5 degree in stock class .My T4 14 is now with 1 degree..

I wiss xray makes a new rear lower suspension holder to put 0 or .5 degree.

Thanks.
How did u achieve that little of toe on Ur previous car ?
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:35 PM   #287
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whats been sprayed onto the surface?
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:51 PM   #288
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Anyone know the difference between these two? Both say Hudy Spring Steel ESC shafts but there are different part numbers. Just the 2mm pin?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...riveshaft-52mm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-w-2mm-Pins
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #289
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Anyone know the difference between these two? Both say Hudy Spring Steel ESC shafts but there are different part numbers. Just the 2mm pin?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...riveshaft-52mm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-w-2mm-Pins
If I remember correctly the original run of ECS shafts that came out didn't have the flat spots on the pins for the set screw. This was later changed and is now included in all current ECS shafts Xray sells. As for the different part numbers I would assume that is why.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:31 PM   #290
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A video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niZN1lLwax8

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whats been sprayed onto the surface?
a magic solution for grip
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:45 PM   #291
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Anyone know the difference between these two? Both say Hudy Spring Steel ESC shafts but there are different part numbers. Just the 2mm pin?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...riveshaft-52mm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...aft-w-2mm-Pins
Yes. One uses a 2 mm pin and the other uses a 1.5mm pin.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:54 PM   #292
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Yes. One uses a 2 mm pin and the other uses a 1.5mm pin.
Any reason one would run the 1.5mm version over the 2mm?
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:10 PM   #293
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Any reason one would run the 1.5mm version over the 2mm?
If one has the ECS's that takes the 1.5mm pins.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:15 PM   #294
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Any reason one would run the 1.5mm version over the 2mm?
Durability.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #295
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Any reason one would run the 1.5mm version over the 2mm?
The 2mm were released less than a year ago to help keep the pins from breaking and coupler from wallowing out as fast. I would not buy the 1.5's...

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ing%20Steel%99
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:23 PM   #296
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The 2mm were released less than a year ago to help keep the pins from breaking and coupler from wallowing out as fast. I would not buy the 1.5's...

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ing%20Steel%99
That's a good reason, but I think the other way. We have had at least a dozen of the 2mm esc's break at our track in Dallas. They are not breaking at the pin, but rather the the shaft itself. It seems with the larger 2mm pin it's moving the breaking points out. I have been running 2sets of 1.5mm esc's for almost 2 years and have only replaced a few parts do to wear. Replacing a broken shaft will run you $30 whereas a broken pin or coupler cost $10. And it's not that the shafts were broken by hack drivers either.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:38 PM   #297
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Ok, so it's just people not setting their servo up correctly



I get roughly 26deg on the inside wheel, and around 19deg on the outside wheel with 0.5deg toe out.

I think one thing people forget is to make sure the servo is 'vertical' (with nothing attached) then put the saver insert onto the spline and and put the saver on, if the saver is not vertical, remove it and keep trying the insert in different positions on the spline until the saver is a vertical as possible.
Then make sure the centre link is as central as possible.
Then check camber and toe
Then set the end points etc.

If you don't do the EPA last, there's a chance the steering will not actually be straight so the end points will be off.

When I built my new car, I set everything up in the steering before I'd even attached the servo link so that I knew it was central.
I actually managed to do a good enough job that it didn't need any trim when I ran it.

Skiddins
I feel it is a Savox servo issue.

I just built my '14 and bought a Savox because I liked the one I put in my XB4.
I set my car up the same way you do getting everything centered then making the conection from the steering to the servo making everything ballanced.
I can only get about 19deg inside and 14deg out on my setup. The center post is about 3mm from the arms.
I put in my Futaba servo from my old T4 and I get can dial in full steering throw. My Savox just doesn't have nowwhere near the same degrees of travel as my Futaba

I drove out on the street once I put the Savox in. The street might be so different than the track but it actualy seemed like it turned tight enough.
Will it be ok?
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:27 PM   #298
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I think the redesign of the ECS with 2mm was a mistake personally. Or at least it could have been executed better. I've snapped them off, a problem I never had with the thinner pins. The ECS design really seems like it could use a bit of attention overall.

Started the build tonight. Got all the way up to the shocks before calling it quits. The car builds up just like a T4, but with toe blocks. Which is to say, basically as flawless as a kit can go. All my hexes were fine, but I don't usually crank down on the screws very hard
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:53 AM   #299
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Originally Posted by Jerz616 View Post
That's a good reason, but I think the other way. We have had at least a dozen of the 2mm esc's break at our track in Dallas. They are not breaking at the pin, but rather the the shaft itself. It seems with the larger 2mm pin it's moving the breaking points out. I have been running 2sets of 1.5mm esc's for almost 2 years and have only replaced a few parts do to wear. Replacing a broken shaft will run you $30 whereas a broken pin or coupler cost $10. And it's not that the shafts were broken by hack drivers either.

100% agree, I have broken 3 shafts of 2mm pin ECS, all broke in the same spot as above. Countless other sets in the bin at our track from other racers too.

I was running the older 1.5mm but have recently changed to Team Magic ECS which are "tamiya style" with pins instead of grub screws. Very durable and still no bents shafts after a couple off big hits.
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:56 AM   #300
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I have two sets of incomplete ecs axles sitting in my track box (i suppose I have one complete set) that I just having bought new parts for. The 2mm pin kept it from breaking anything at the joint, but like mentioned above, I broke the inner axle on both sets.

I put the factory stuff back in and they are fine. I really wish my kit would get here, I want my '14
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