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Old 11-05-2014, 01:08 PM   #2221
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Yea I think with a 92 spur, you MIGHT be able to get like a 42 pinion in there or something, but I'm not sure how much smaller you can go. You'll need a bigger spur.
92T spur and 37T pinion is enough I think. Have you tried it ?
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Old 11-05-2014, 01:39 PM   #2222
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92T spur and 37T pinion is enough I think. Have you tried it ?
The point is that I don't think you can fit a 37T pinion with a 92T spur. I can check when I get home tonight. I run pinions in the 50T range with a 92T spur and the motor is a bit to the left of center with that setup. If you want to get the FDR you're after, you're probably going to have to go with a bigger spur, 100+ like I said.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:08 PM   #2223
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Yeah, the motor will most likely be hitting the top plate/layshaft holder with a 92 spur.
We run 96 for 17.5, so I imagine 100 would work for 13.5
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:17 PM   #2224
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Yeah the problem is that the pinion/spur is too small, so they don't even have enough overlap. I used to run a 92/45 in 17.5 and it was already getting kinda close. You're better off going to a 100t spur and using like a 40/41 pinion.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:21 PM   #2225
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Default Radtec Alum chassis

Has anyone tried this chassis? Radtec Alum for T4 14
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:55 PM   #2226
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I still use this spur/pinion guide even if it was for the 2012. this isn't mine, got this from another user at the t3 12 thread a long time ago.

the FDRs highlighted in blue and white indicates the possible spur and pinion combination.

HTH.

Any news on the conversion from the '14 to the '15?
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File Type: pdf Xray T32012 Gear Guide.pdf (39.2 KB, 593 views)
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:44 AM   #2227
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Sweet, awesome guide, alec!
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:43 AM   #2228
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I did this a while ago and for the original T4, be carefull when going anywhere near the bottom of the gear chart as the motor can be very close to the topdeck. Best to stick near the middle of each column if you can.

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Old 11-06-2014, 10:30 AM   #2229
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For documentation sake, I want to add that some motors hit the top deck even in the middle of the range. An example of this is the Novak Ballistic which we use for VTA in 25.5. The motor screws have large square heads and if you install the motor with the solder tabs on top, one of the screws will be in the way of the top deck.

Easy way around this is to rotate the motor by one mounting screw hole in either direction, it's just... annoying
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:41 AM   #2230
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A lot of motors are like that. I have to rotate the older Trinity motors I have, in order to use under a 20T pinion with 84T spur. Even when rotated so a notch lines up perfectly with the top deck, it's still very close to touching.
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Old 11-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #2231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
be carefull when going anywhere near the bottom of the gear chart as the motor can be very close to the topdeck.
Smaller pinions are at the top of the chart. Smaller pinions move motor back. Moving motor back makes it more likely to hit the top deck.

So, I think you meant top?

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Old 11-06-2014, 03:56 PM   #2232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Smaller pinions are at the top of the chart. Smaller pinions move motor back. Moving motor back makes it more likely to hit the top deck.

So, I think you meant top?

-Mike
I think you got it right and I got it wrong.

No matter what, the huge gear chart that Xray supply with their kits is total arse gravy.
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Old 11-07-2014, 06:55 AM   #2233
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Can someone please expain the difference in running different length ECS's, and under what conditions whould you run each length. So Xray makes both 50mm and 52mm ecs's, how do you choose which ecs to run. I've always run 50mm
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:11 PM   #2234
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Can someone please expain the difference in running different length ECS's, and under what conditions whould you run each length. So Xray makes both 50mm and 52mm ecs's, how do you choose which ecs to run. I've always run 50mm
FROM THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL


Longer drive shafts (52mm) make the car easier to drive because they
give more traction and better stability, mainly in chicanes. However, the
car will understeer more than with shorter (50mm) shafts which give a lot
of steering and impart aggression to the car.
Both left & right shafts should ALWAYS be the same length at one end of
the car (front or rear).
52mm shafts are recommended for carpet and large asphalt tracks.
50mm shafts are recommended for small-medium tight asphalt tracks.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:21 PM   #2235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godzukihop View Post
FROM THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL


Longer drive shafts (52mm) make the car easier to drive because they
give more traction and better stability, mainly in chicanes. However, the
car will understeer more than with shorter (50mm) shafts which give a lot
of steering and impart aggression to the car.
Both left & right shafts should ALWAYS be the same length at one end of
the car (front or rear).
52mm shafts are recommended for carpet and large asphalt tracks.
50mm shafts are recommended for small-medium tight asphalt tracks.
I really don't get this. The length just places the DCJ deeper in the cup, right? How does that affect traction and steering?
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