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Old 09-16-2014, 09:38 AM   #2176
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
The problem that I have faced and have seen others face is a low-medium bite track that is also quite hot 130+ heat. In those situations, light oil and stuff springs contribute to over heating tires, especially if it's a spec tire.

The long shocks give more bite and more consistency while being able to run heavier oil. The stock shocks just weren't as quick, IMO.
Interesting, we get about one really hot day a year in the UK . I've still got the long shocks in the box so maybe I'll give them a try in 2015 if we're lucky enough to be racing on that one nice day.

My current 'hot track' setup is 2.5-2.8 all round, 350cst oil and increased chassis flex (centre post instead of layshaft screws). That worked well on our warmest day this year (around 115f, so not quite what you're experiencing).
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:08 AM   #2177
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You'll need the T3 shocks and Raceberry T4 shock towers.

But I'd recommend saving your money. Unlike the Tamikos the Xray is designed around the short shocks, and Xray put a lot of work into them. They work as well as the long ones when the right oil and springs are used, and are lighter and smoother.

A few drivers tried the long shocks in the UK when the T4 first came out (most of our tracks are low/mid grip), but I haven't seen anyone use them in over a year.

In low grip go for 350cst oil with 4x1.1mm pistons and 2.7 springs and the car will be better than any Tamiko.
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
The problem that I have faced and have seen others face is a low-medium bite track that is also quite hot 130+ heat. In those situations, light oil and stuff springs contribute to over heating tires, especially if it's a spec tire.

The long shocks give more bite and more consistency while being able to run heavier oil. The stock shocks just weren't as quick, IMO.
Thanks!

maybe that was my problem, overheating tires....
it was well not perfect in the beginning of the heat but midway it started to get slippery.. and it got worse towards the end.

let s say it was overheating the tires... what would I do to fix it? Generally speaking as I do not have car at hand to give specifics on settings.
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Old 09-19-2014, 12:47 PM   #2178
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Could someone give me a mesurement of the diameter of the molded swaybar balls on the rear arms? I am looking to see if they are the same as something im working on.

Thanks

Bronson
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Old 09-19-2014, 02:04 PM   #2179
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Could someone give me a mesurement of the diameter of the molded swaybar balls on the rear arms? I am looking to see if they are the same as something im working on.

Thanks

Bronson
using a vernier i came up with 4.86mm
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:16 PM   #2180
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Dang i need a ball cup that fits a 3.75 ball and has a 3mm thread
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:50 PM   #2181
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I saw these chassis run at a national level event in Denver earlier this year and the cars were just awesome. Michael Toth's XRAY was just amazing on track. They waited a little long to release it seeing as the T4 2015 is going to be out in 2 months but I could not help but order one. I like all my AVID offroad stuff so I am guessing that there onroad stuff is just as good. Glad they posted his set up on the site so I have a good place to start.

Has anyone else run or seen these chassis?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:59 PM   #2182
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I saw these chassis run at a national level event in Denver earlier this year and the cars were just awesome. Michael Toth's XRAY was just amazing on track. They waited a little long to release it seeing as the T4 2015 is going to be out in 2 months but I could not help but order one. I like all my AVID offroad stuff so I am guessing that there onroad stuff is just as good. Glad they posted his set up on the site so I have a good place to start.

Has anyone else run or seen these chassis?

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
I got the chassis from David Joor last week, installed it on my car immediately! It's great. It is 84mm wide which is even a little more narrow than the standard yokomo chassis. It lowers the center of gravity a lot being 2.0mm thick, which is nice. It's forgiving like the graphite chassis, yet precise like the aluminum chassis. Be sure to get the thinner shock towers and both top decks (1.5 and 2.0) so you can adjust based on different track conditions. The 1.5 top deck seems to be the fastest in most conditions based on my testing.

And BTW, the chassis already has the holes in it for the ARS system, so it will work fine with the new xray 2015.

If you PM me, I'll post my set up with it also so you can see if you like it!
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:38 PM   #2183
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has anyone tried the new smokem chassis? or any other smokem chassis? Looking for feedback as I wouldnt mind trying the new chassis.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:48 PM   #2184
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has anyone tried the new smokem chassis? or any other smokem chassis? Looking for feedback as I wouldnt mind trying the new chassis.
I'm pretty happy with mine. I find it improves the cornering response of my T4'14. In particular, I found better steering response in higher speeds corners like sweepers, etc. Also looks kind of cool without the diff holes at the bottom.

They also have a top deck that is slightly different to the stock top deck (doesn't have the slit cut out at the motor mount post and 2 less holes at the layshaft mounts). It is a little stiffer so it's a handy tuning option to have as their chassis is a little bit softer than stock. Hope that helps!
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:07 PM   #2185
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Originally Posted by traitor View Post
has anyone tried the new smokem chassis? or any other smokem chassis? Looking for feedback as I wouldnt mind trying the new chassis.
I've actually never seen any of their stuff.
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
I got the chassis from David Joor last week, installed it on my car immediately! It's great. It is 84mm wide which is even a little more narrow than the standard yokomo chassis. It lowers the center of gravity a lot being 2.0mm thick, which is nice. It's forgiving like the graphite chassis, yet precise like the aluminum chassis. Be sure to get the thinner shock towers and both top decks (1.5 and 2.0) so you can adjust based on different track conditions. The 1.5 top deck seems to be the fastest in most conditions based on my testing.

And BTW, the chassis already has the holes in it for the ARS system, so it will work fine with the new xray 2015.

If you PM me, I'll post my set up with it also so you can see if you like it!
+1
I like the 2.0 td and chassis on carpet. looking forward to testing more with the ars with the avid chassis after i get back from Worlds.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:00 PM   #2186
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Default Need more steering at corner entry

Hi All,

I am back into on-road after a 2 year hiatus. I haven't run an Xray in quite some time and my last car was a TC6.1.

Our first club race for the indoor season went well considering I had no practice prior to the qualifiers. Still managed to TQ and win.

With that said, the car is very neutral handling and I need to make it more aggressive. More specifically, I would like more steering on corner entry. I was thinking trying a 1.3mm front sway bar over the 1.4 and a friend suggested more rear droop.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I have attached a picture of my current setup.

Thanks,
Kane
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:07 PM   #2187
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Hi All,

I am back into on-road after a 2 year hiatus. I haven't run an Xray in quite some time and my last car was a TC6.1.

Our first club race for the indoor season went well considering I had no practice prior to the qualifiers. Still managed to TQ and win.

With that said, the car is very neutral handling and I need to make it more aggressive. More specifically, I would like more steering on corner entry. I was thinking trying a 1.3mm front sway bar over the 1.4 and a friend suggested more rear droop.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I have attached a picture of my current setup.

Thanks,
Kane
The first two things I'd try would be less rear toe, and more camber.

Sometimes the front of the car can be too soft, so if the lighter bar doesn't get you what you want it could be just washing out...try raising your front shocks one hole.

Removing the front pin sweep will make it more aggressive going into the corner as well.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:37 PM   #2188
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The first two things I'd try would be less rear toe, and more camber.

Sometimes the front of the car can be too soft, so if the lighter bar doesn't get you what you want it could be just washing out...try raising your front shocks one hole.

Removing the front pin sweep will make it more aggressive going into the corner as well.
Excellent! I will give these things try at our next race. Thank you so much.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:26 PM   #2189
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Yes, less rear tow if you can get away with it, also seeing as your just running 17.5T, maybe lighter rear diff fluid, it can feel more nervous heading into the corner, but can give more steering into, but that one can be a track thing tuning wise, also driver feel.

The best advice I give everyone though on RC car tuning, follow the real pros advice, the Alex Hagberg phone app, or the even older Workbench app are usually right on the money, $5 or $10, best money you will ever spend in RC.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:51 PM   #2190
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Yes, less rear tow if you can get away with it, also seeing as your just running 17.5T, maybe lighter rear diff fluid, it can feel more nervous heading into the corner, but can give more steering into, but that one can be a track thing tuning wise, also driver feel.

The best advice I give everyone though on RC car tuning, follow the real pros advice, the Alex Hagberg phone app, or the even older Workbench app are usually right on the money, $5 or $10, best money you will ever spend in RC.
This is great info as well. Thanks for directing me to the app. I just downloaded it.
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