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Old 07-17-2014, 01:32 AM   #2041
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Ah, I see. Well, I have the RSD DCJs on the way, high hopes for those. If something doesn't work out with them (which I doubt), I'll try the Smokem/Tamiya setup. Thanks!
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:04 AM   #2042
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+1 on the spec r dcj's although im new to them with only 3 meetings ,i found they are smoother than the xray ecs
ive had a pin pop out after a heavy crash (i might have put the clip on the wrong way around)so resorted to shrink wrap and so far no problems
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:08 PM   #2043
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+1 on the RSD axles. The latest version is perfect. Very reasonable price, durable enough for mod, full articulation, and no set screws to worry about using shrink wrap and loc-tite with. Quick to break down, rebuild and reassemble. Half the time I don't even take the clips out. Just spray out and relube. My favorite RSD product. Especially coupled with their Aluminum spool outdrives.
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:22 PM   #2044
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
+1 on the RSD axles. The latest version is perfect. Very reasonable price, durable enough for mod, full articulation, and no set screws to worry about using shrink wrap and loc-tite with. Quick to break down, rebuild and reassemble. Half the time I don't even take the clips out. Just spray out and relube. My favorite RSD product. Especially coupled with their Aluminum spool outdrives.
I ordered the 52mm wide axle ones but they're now discontinued, so I'm being sent the narrow axle version (so thinner inner bearing). I'm pretty excited to get them
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:10 PM   #2045
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
+1 on the RSD axles. The latest version is perfect. Very reasonable price, durable enough for mod, full articulation, and no set screws to worry about using shrink wrap and loc-tite with. Quick to break down, rebuild and reassemble. Half the time I don't even take the clips out. Just spray out and relube. My favorite RSD product. Especially coupled with their Aluminum spool outdrives.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:49 AM   #2046
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Some info on the Hiro Seiko light weight srew set. Order form Smokem site with an approx 1 week turn around to the UK. Impressed with the quality and had enough screws to do the whole car with a few left over. Weight saving of 22g :

Before (1271g)


After (1249g)


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Old 07-19-2014, 12:46 PM   #2047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
+1 on the spec r dcj's although im new to them with only 3 meetings ,i found they are smoother than the xray ecs
ive had a pin pop out after a heavy crash (i might have put the clip on the wrong way around)so resorted to shrink wrap and so far no problems
What is consider the correct way/direction to install the clips?
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Old 07-19-2014, 05:19 PM   #2048
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Hello everyone,

My name is Steve Wang, owner of ST Racing Concepts (some of you that's been around here awhile, might remember me from old Speed Tech R/C days). We are looking to launch a line of titanium screw kits for the on-road racing segment. We are starting with a soft launch on the Xray T4 '14 sedan

http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...th=118_121_125

It's a 110 pcs screw kit with a 10 pcs aluminum lock-nut set (4 M4 lock-nut and 6 M3 lock-nut in anodized orange)

We are also offering a discount coupon code: rctech2014 for those of you that are willing to try one out.

Thanks

Steve
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:00 PM   #2049
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I wanted to post an update on my asphalt setup. My car was very pushy so far this season, to the point of having to be driven like a full size auto-x car (dart into corners, hard brake, turn, dart out). Corner speed has been difficult to maintain.

I feel like I had some success today. The biggest improvement came from more droop, currently at 6F and 5R on the Hudy droop gauge. I also laid my front shocks down (2nd hole out) and stood my rear shocks up (4th hole out). I ran with Xray springs, 2.5F and 2.3R, which seemed to work ok. The other big change I made was to move all arms to their lower -0.75 positions, to give the car more roll.

For the main I also added 1mm pro-dive (kick-up) and that gave the car some more steering. I increased rear toe to 3* to stick the rear more as a result. With all these changes I was able to run in the low 12s, whereas I was in the low 13s at the beginning of the day. Not bad.

My plans for tomorrow's race (different track) are as follows

1. Play more with droop. Maybe 5.6F and 4.6R?

2. Play more with springs. Thinking Xray 2.6F and 2.5R, or maybe the Xray progressives? I also have the RSD asphalt set. I must say this has been the most confusing part for me, I'm not sure how much the springs contribute to corner entry and mid-corner speed.

3. Play more with kick-up. Maybe try a more, so 2mm, or perhaps less, getting rid of the 1mm shim and just using 0 and -0.75 hinge pin holders (I actually have a T4 2013).

And tires. Tires, tires, tires. HPI VTA tires are a pain on asphalt, I'm still figuring out a good saucing strategy. Cleaning with Paragon black can seems to be the best recipe so far.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:13 PM   #2050
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just got one i have been running a 6.2 now xray t4 14 can't wait to see how she runs in 17.5 blinky on asphalt med grip, i got to find the perfect setup,good info in here thanks.
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:17 PM   #2051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikkel_R View Post
Some info on the Hiro Seiko light weight srew set. Order form Smokem site with an approx 1 week turn around to the UK. Impressed with the quality and had enough screws to do the whole car with a few left over. Weight saving of 22g :

Before (1271g)


After (1249g)


Michael
Hi Michael. Thanks for posting your shopping experience with us. We are glad you got your order so quickly. We are finding that 5-9 days is the average delivery time with our standard registered shipping service, which is pretty impressive for our most inexpensive shipping method!

The Hiro Seiko screws are top notch in quality and used by both Alexander Hagberg and Marek Cerny. The hex heads are pressed/forged in for improved durability.

As mentioned before, our T4 spring steel spool cups are designed specifically for use with Tamiya DCJs - widely acknowledged as the benchmark in DCJs. They are smooth, extremely durable and very reasonably priced. Together they form a super robust front end drivetrain for the T4'14 (and also T4 and T3)...

We have also just released our T4'14-IIX chassis (and I see haura415 already has one in his hands - many thanks)! Sharing the same genes as our 418-IIX an BD7-IIX chassis (both of which have been highly successful on the world stage), this chassis is touch softer than the stock XRAY chassis. But most importantly this chassis lowers the CG by 0.25mm which, in combination with the profile design and unique carbon construction, delivers improved high speed steering, transitional response and overall corner speed. I'm sure you won't be disappointed with this chassis.
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:46 PM   #2052
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Are you planning on a xray diff cup for the tamiya dcjs?
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:38 AM   #2053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I feel like I had some success today. The biggest improvement came from more droop, currently at 6F and 5R on the Hudy droop gauge. I also laid my front shocks down (2nd hole out) and stood my rear shocks up (4th hole out). I ran with Xray springs, 2.5F and 2.3R, which seemed to work ok. The other big change I made was to move all arms to their lower -0.75 positions, to give the car more roll.

For the main I also added 1mm pro-dive (kick-up) and that gave the car some more steering. I increased rear toe to 3* to stick the rear more as a result. With all these changes I was able to run in the low 12s, whereas I was in the low 13s at the beginning of the day. Not bad.

My plans for tomorrow's race (different track) are as follows

1. Play more with droop. Maybe 5.6F and 4.6R?

2. Play more with springs. Thinking Xray 2.6F and 2.5R, or maybe the Xray progressives? I also have the RSD asphalt set. I must say this has been the most confusing part for me, I'm not sure how much the springs contribute to corner entry and mid-corner speed.

3. Play more with kick-up. Maybe try a more, so 2mm, or perhaps less, getting rid of the 1mm shim and just using 0 and -0.75 hinge pin holders (I actually have a T4 2013).

And tires. Tires, tires, tires. HPI VTA tires are a pain on asphalt, I'm still figuring out a good saucing strategy. Cleaning with Paragon black can seems to be the best recipe so far.

Thoughts?
The progressives work Ok on asphalt, but if grip is too high it will just become numb and almost too easy to drive.
If you want more turn in, drop the rear shocks down to hole 3 and fit a stiffer rear spring. We tend to use 2.7's all round.
6F 5R droop!! what were you running before, that's almost carpet droop as it is
A lot of the team drivers are now running more rear droop, 4.5 or even 4, with 5.5F
Have you tried less rear toe, but with +.5 or +.1's being used to give you wider rear track?

These are all with standard TC tyres, not VTA.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:22 AM   #2054
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Are you planning on a xray diff cup for the tamiya dcjs?
Absolutely! They will be available soon. Please follow us on Facebook for further updates.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:23 AM   #2055
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Quote:
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The progressives work Ok on asphalt, but if grip is too high it will just become numb and almost too easy to drive.
If you want more turn in, drop the rear shocks down to hole 3 and fit a stiffer rear spring. We tend to use 2.7's all round.
I was having trouble with the rear suddenly skipping/washing out on power, but something I did throughout the day cured that. Maybe the tires finally came in, but I thought it was the 3* of toe (as opposed to the 2* I started with) as well as standing the shocks up. That last part didn't make sense to me, as I thought laying them down gave more turn-in. Hrm. I don't have two full sets of springs, but I can try 2.7 front and 2.6 rear.


Quote:
6F 5R droop!! what were you running before, that's almost carpet droop as it is
A lot of the team drivers are now running more rear droop, 4.5 or even 4, with 5.5F
I was running 6.6F and 6R, so yeah, much less. At 4.6R my springs start to come off of the preload collars. I noticed the kit 2013 asphalt setup is 6F/5R, while the 2014 is 5.6F/4.6R. So yeah, I can try that for sure.

Quote:
Have you tried less rear toe, but with +.5 or +.1's being used to give you wider rear track?
Do you mean wider hexes, or? I thought wider track width would result in a more stable car, but one that has less side bite? I'm running standard hexes in the back and +0.75 in the front to keep the VTA wheels away from the steering knuckles.

Quote:
These are all with standard TC tyres, not VTA.
Yeah, I think this may be the big difference. One of our veteran fast guys (25+ years of racing) told me that VTA tires require some "almost backwards" setup. They're pretty pillow-like and they overheat easily, so you have to try weird setups. My next steps, according to him, should be inboard front toe, potentially more kick-up, maybe 6* caster blocks, and maybe 2* front camber with 1* rear. Those are things I could try today.

I feel like a mad scientist. But instead of crazy chemicals I have this orange and carbon fiber contraption
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