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Old 07-15-2014, 10:59 AM   #2026
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I did try that but the heat shrink kept sliding off. I may just have cheap heat shrink, I bought a "multi-size bulk" container off of Amazon. Do you have specific heat shrink you use?
You want this from mcmaster carr. It worked since 2008 on XRay ECS...

7132K75 1 Pack Chemical-resistant Heat-shrink Tubing, 3/8" Id Before, 3/16" Id After, 6" Length, Black
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:03 PM   #2027
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Thanks for the info. I'll remove the carbon fibre plates, and prep the tires.
the biggest change will be to try the cs 22's,or sorex 24/28's, if its cold half your problem will be the tyre compound
id leave the 2mm shims on the inner front and if the rear still slides after removing the graphite plates try adding shims to the inner rear,if its low grip try 3mm of shims,if grip is ok then try 1mm
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:49 PM   #2028
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Pretty much give the car a going over. Check the screws, check the bearings, check the drive train, check the belts.

If you've had a bad crash, check to see if there is any damage.

Also clean the chassis as dirt and other debris can cause parts to wear out quicker.

Ok thanks a lot
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:38 PM   #2029
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Ok, I'm confused, why are you recommending he lower the inside links? That raises the roll center and thus will have the car roll less, no?
You're right about roll centre, BUT, I have found that lowering the rear links on previous cars (and the T4'14) seemed to give more rear grip.

I tend to think of the lower pivot blocks as the roll centre adjusters and the upper links as camber gain adjusters.

If it doesn't work out for him he can always come back and tell us that the opposite worked
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:54 PM   #2030
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the biggest change will be to try the cs 22's,or sorex 24/28's, if its cold half your problem will be the tyre compound
id leave the 2mm shims on the inner front and if the rear still slides after removing the graphite plates try adding shims to the inner rear,if its low grip try 3mm of shims,if grip is ok then try 1mm
Ok, cool thanks! With all the info you guys are giving me I'm gonna have to get a pen and paper and write this all down.
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:55 PM   #2031
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You're right about roll centre, BUT, I have found that lowering the rear links on previous cars (and the T4'14) seemed to give more rear grip.

I tend to think of the lower pivot blocks as the roll centre adjusters and the upper links as camber gain adjusters.
I may have to try this with my T4 '14 as well.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:52 PM   #2032
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Hello

I'm green to on road rc racing and I've only raced once and have 2 weeks in between races. What maintenance I should do in between races and what I should do every two races.

Thanks
As a general rule, if it is not glued down then it coming off the car to be cleaned, inspected, replaced if necessary, lubed, reinstalled and tuned up. If I find a part that keeps breaking or working loose, then I take the time to figure out a fix which may range from simple Loc-Tite to part replacement. It keeps things simple
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:44 AM   #2033
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So I just noticed these at TQRC:




Looks like an option to the Xray DCJs. 1.8mm pins are thicker than the previous 1.5mm pins Spec-R was using, but still thinner than the 2.0mm pins RSD and Xray are using. Otherwise they look pretty solid.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:12 PM   #2034
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Have been running the spec-r double jointed front drive shafts on my t4 now my 14, never had a problem, bullet proof.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:21 PM   #2035
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So I just noticed these at TQRC:




Looks like an option to the Xray DCJs. 1.8mm pins are thicker than the previous 1.5mm pins Spec-R was using, but still thinner than the 2.0mm pins RSD and Xray are using. Otherwise they look pretty solid.
That looks like a new version but I don't know what is different about that compared to the old Xray version 2.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2767

I do know that I have had a set of the SPR001-XR2 (older? version 2) that have been absolutely wonderful. $40 for the pair with bearings and they have lasted almost forever without any issues. I'm on my third outdoor season running Mod on them plus many many indoor carpet races. Best $40 ever spent on the car.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:39 PM   #2036
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I think the main difference is the thicker (stronger?) cross pins and c clips.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:34 PM   #2037
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I think the main difference is the thicker (stronger?) cross pins and c clips.
And bigger housing, and bigger cross joints, from what I see. The funny thing is, it's never been any of those parts I've had a problem with. The only Spec-R DCJ I broke, and I think it was on my Schui and not my Xray, was the bone where the cross joint goes through it.

But yeah. They might be sloppy, but I've found the Spec-R's to be an incredible value, and quite reliable despite inadvertent durability testing.

-Mike
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:38 PM   #2038
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I run the Smokem spool cups in mine. These let you use the Tamiya DCJ's which are absolutely bulletproof, buttery smooth and are the least expensive DCJ's around (~$35). The Smokem cups are really durable as well (pretty sure they are spring steel). Win-win in my opinion.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:07 AM   #2039
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I run the Smokem spool cups in mine. These let you use the Tamiya DCJ's which are absolutely bulletproof, buttery smooth and are the least expensive DCJ's around (~$35). The Smokem cups are really durable as well (pretty sure they are spring steel). Win-win in my opinion.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Tamiya DCJs. You're saying they wouldn't fit in the stock Xray diff outdrives/cups?
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:04 AM   #2040
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I've heard nothing but good things about the Tamiya DCJs. You're saying they wouldn't fit in the stock Xray diff outdrives/cups?
No you can't use tamiya dcj in xray cup ball size is different
I been using smokem cup and tamiya dcj no problem at all very smooth and strong

And here is my new smokem t4 14-IIx chassis
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