Xray T4'14
#2027
id leave the 2mm shims on the inner front and if the rear still slides after removing the graphite plates try adding shims to the inner rear,if its low grip try 3mm of shims,if grip is ok then try 1mm
#2028
Ok thanks a lot
#2029
I tend to think of the lower pivot blocks as the roll centre adjusters and the upper links as camber gain adjusters.
If it doesn't work out for him he can always come back and tell us that the opposite worked
#2030
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
the biggest change will be to try the cs 22's,or sorex 24/28's, if its cold half your problem will be the tyre compound
id leave the 2mm shims on the inner front and if the rear still slides after removing the graphite plates try adding shims to the inner rear,if its low grip try 3mm of shims,if grip is ok then try 1mm
id leave the 2mm shims on the inner front and if the rear still slides after removing the graphite plates try adding shims to the inner rear,if its low grip try 3mm of shims,if grip is ok then try 1mm
#2032
As a general rule, if it is not glued down then it coming off the car to be cleaned, inspected, replaced if necessary, lubed, reinstalled and tuned up. If I find a part that keeps breaking or working loose, then I take the time to figure out a fix which may range from simple Loc-Tite to part replacement. It keeps things simple
#2034
Have been running the spec-r double jointed front drive shafts on my t4 now my 14, never had a problem, bullet proof.
#2035
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2767
I do know that I have had a set of the SPR001-XR2 (older? version 2) that have been absolutely wonderful. $40 for the pair with bearings and they have lasted almost forever without any issues. I'm on my third outdoor season running Mod on them plus many many indoor carpet races. Best $40 ever spent on the car.
#2037
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
But yeah. They might be sloppy, but I've found the Spec-R's to be an incredible value, and quite reliable despite inadvertent durability testing.
-Mike
#2038
I run the Smokem spool cups in mine. These let you use the Tamiya DCJ's which are absolutely bulletproof, buttery smooth and are the least expensive DCJ's around (~$35). The Smokem cups are really durable as well (pretty sure they are spring steel). Win-win in my opinion.
#2039
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
I run the Smokem spool cups in mine. These let you use the Tamiya DCJ's which are absolutely bulletproof, buttery smooth and are the least expensive DCJ's around (~$35). The Smokem cups are really durable as well (pretty sure they are spring steel). Win-win in my opinion.
#2040
I been using smokem cup and tamiya dcj no problem at all very smooth and strong
And here is my new smokem t4 14-IIx chassis