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Old 06-16-2014, 07:46 PM   #1891
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Although I see what you're saying, the kit sway bars are pretty stiff. Wouldn't thinner sway bars also result in more roll? Not trying to challenge your opinion, just trying to understand
Put it this way. The sway bar ,all it does it to keep the chassis flat around the corner..that's it
Try changing the inner links up or lay down the rear shock more and reduce the front droop
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:05 PM   #1892
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Although I see what you're saying, the kit sway bars are pretty stiff. Wouldn't thinner sway bars also result in more roll? Not trying to challenge your opinion, just trying to understand
Yes, a thicker sway bar reduces chassis roll more than a thinner sway bar.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:43 AM   #1893
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That setup does not work very well on the low traction track at all. The car pushes into the corner and fishtails out of the corner if I'm not super gentle on the throttle. Basically crap. I know I have to soften the car up, but my question is this: should I be softening up the springs or the sway bars first? Or both?
Thanks!
Increase the droop all round (5f 4r). This will give more steering on entry and more traction on exit.

Increase the rear toe to 3deg which will just give a load more grip.

And use Xray 2.7 springs, these are better when the grip is low. The RSD springs work well when the grip is good and you're after a bit more corner speed or improved bump handling.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:35 PM   #1894
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@metalnut: Are you talking about your Scale Spec car?

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Old 06-17-2014, 03:15 PM   #1895
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@metalnut: Are you talking about your Scale Spec car?

-Mike
Yep! And the huge difference in grip between Fasttrax and Galaxy. The car that took 1st at Fasttrax had basically no steering into corner or corner exit grip at Galaxy. I was going to try some setup changes but we got rained out, which is why I asked the question here instead.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #1896
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We have two asphalt tracks in my area that I've been racing at this summer. One is always meticulously prepped and sprayed with a mix of grape soda and snow cone syrup, resulting in great traction. The other track is often not prepped at all, which leaves it dusty with very low traction.

My setup works great on the high grip track. I'm basically running the kit asphalt setup but with longest camber links, 2* toe in the back, RSD progressive asphalt springs (green front, silver back: http://www.reflex-sd.com/RSD-20mm-As...ir_p_1735.html), 1* camber all around and 5.5mm ride height. Droop is 2mm in the front and 2.5mm in the back. Kit sway bars.

That setup does not work very well on the low traction track at all. The car pushes into the corner and fishtails out of the corner if I'm not super gentle on the throttle. Basically crap. I know I have to soften the car up, but my question is this: should I be softening up the springs or the sway bars first? Or both?

Thanks!
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Increase the droop all round (5f 4r). This will give more steering on entry and more traction on exit.

Increase the rear toe to 3deg which will just give a load more grip.

And use Xray 2.7 springs, these are better when the grip is low. The RSD springs work well when the grip is good and you're after a bit more corner speed or improved bump handling.
I'm sort of with Dale on the changes, except;
Try the kit 2.5 springs all round.
Remove layshaft (top deck) screws for more flex.
3deg rear toe.
Rear shocks in 3rd hole out.
1mm on rear inner link (1mm on front inner as well if balance is ok)
If you are going to try thinner front roll bars I would also go thinner at the rear, ie 1.3F 1.1R

But, not matter what you try, come back and let us know what worked and what didn't
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:32 PM   #1897
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What are the part numbers for the ISS bushings that change the toe in? Where can I find them in the US
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:36 PM   #1898
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You mean these? http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Bushing-Set-2
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:27 AM   #1899
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What does everyone use to clean the diff out when changing oils? I don't want to use something that eats the plastic or makes it brittle.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:50 AM   #1900
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What does everyone use to clean the diff out when changing oils? I don't want to use something that eats the plastic or makes it brittle.
you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but remove all of the o-rings first and make sure it's fully dry before putting the o-rings back in. Brake cleaner tends to make rubber swell up horribly

I'd probably just wipe it out with a microfibre cloth and refill, as long as it wasn't really dirty and I wasn't changing to a massively different CST oil.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:54 AM   #1901
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What does everyone use to clean the diff out when changing oils? I don't want to use something that eats the plastic or makes it brittle.
Saw a good tech tip just last week about that, just buy some 100cst or even thinner shock oil, rinse the diff out with thin oil, east to drain, thins out thick previous oils to they come out easier etc.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:57 AM   #1902
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Saw a good tech tip just last week about that, just buy some 100cst or even thinner shock oil, rinse the diff out with thin oil, east to drain, thins out thick previous oils to they come out easier etc.
I keep the various shock oils that usually come with kits for that exact purpose. I use them to flush out and clean out old oil from shocks and diffs. No reason to waste the good stuff
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:30 AM   #1903
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Yes, thank You!!!
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:11 PM   #1904
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Default Mid corner hook/oversteer

This is a great thread and one that I've found a ton of useful information on. However I can't seem to find any on a recent issue I came across.

Just getting back into RC and really starting to keep up with the fast guys, I still am learning how to tune.

For the most part I have the basic Xray carpet setup. Changed the rear to 2 degrees of camber and that's it. This has always worked well. However recently the rear end has been loose.

As best as I can explain it, the car looks like a sea shell. Sweepers are fine, large corners are fine as well. However it seems the more your steer the exponentially loose the rear end becomes and eventually will gives out.

Most corners though the car turns in, rear end slides 6 inches at the apex and hooks up and off you go. I haven't had this issue before. First I thought I was entering the corner too fast but I think it's more of a setup issue.

I will also note that the higher speed sections the car handles fine. But the lower speed corners the rear end spins out or feels loose. Can't say I've encountered this before.

Searching this thread has resulted in how to fix a mid corner push but no mid corner over steer.

First on my list to try was an Ackerman adjustment.

You fella's have any other thoughts?
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:51 PM   #1905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
What does everyone use to clean the diff out when changing oils? I don't want to use something that eats the plastic or makes it brittle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by locked View Post
you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but remove all of the o-rings first and make sure it's fully dry before putting the o-rings back in. Brake cleaner tends to make rubber swell up horribly

I'd probably just wipe it out with a microfibre cloth and refill, as long as it wasn't really dirty and I wasn't changing to a massively different CST oil.
Definitely a +1 to the microfiber towel.For some reason it absorbs the silicone instead of just pushing it around like a cotton towel. Limonene-D, or sonic bearing cleaner, or any generic orange powered citrus cleaner breaks the silicone down really well. It works much better than motor spray, and doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. I take the rubber bits out and use a tooth brush to work in the Limonene-D and then spray it out with motor spray. Its cheaper and works better and smells better. The diff will look dry as a bone without the white stuff when you're done.
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