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Old 06-11-2014, 03:35 AM   #1876
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Skiddins,

Sorry to single you out mate, what body do you suggest on carpet??

Cheers
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Protoform mazdaspeed6 lightweight is the most common go-to shell for carpet. Other shells can work well too, in certain conditions, depending on driving style and setup, but speed6 lw is what most people use, the majority of the time.

Just answering because it's pretty late in England, so Skiddins might not see your question until tomorrow and I kind of doubt he'll have a vastly different response than this anyway.
What he said

I've tried other bodies that seem pretty good and usually get the same laptimes, but they are simply more difficult to drive.
I always run light weight shells

The only other bodies I've liked on carpet was the Nazda 3 (may need to make the setup a little easier to drive first) and Blitz TSX (on higher grip carpet) but my main choice is the Speed 6 LW just like everyone else
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:33 PM   #1877
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I was just wondering what would be a good FDR for a 7.5t mod motor for a track with a 100ft straightaway? I am new to brushless mod motors.
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:34 PM   #1878
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I was just wondering what would be a good FDR for a 7.5t mod motor for a track with a 100ft straightaway? I am new to brushless mod motors.
I'd probably start around 6.
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:39 PM   #1879
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I was just wondering what would be a good FDR for a 7.5t mod motor for a track with a 100ft straightaway? I am new to brushless mod motors.
Boosted or blinky?
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:20 PM   #1880
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Boosted or blinky?
Blinky to start and if I need more top end I will boost it.
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:27 PM   #1881
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Blinky to start and if I need more top end I will boost it.
I would decide first. If you go boosted, I'd gear it at 8:1 to start and add boost as needed. If you go blinky I'd start around 6:1 and gear for motor temps and I wouldn't add boost at this ratio.
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Old 06-12-2014, 11:17 PM   #1882
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the pros are running a FDR of 8 t0 8.5 with a 4.5T booted and turbo.
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Old 06-13-2014, 07:02 AM   #1883
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+1, I would go with recommended FDR aroung 6 to 6.5. Pull off and check motor temps every few minutes and move from there based on track requirments. For comparison, I gear a 5.5T at 8.1 FDR and add/subtract boost if needed. Hope this is helpful.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:45 AM   #1884
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I run a 4.5t Boosted. Gearing is 26/110 for a 8.04. Coming off in the 120's after 6-8 minutes.
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:43 PM   #1885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
What he said

I've tried other bodies that seem pretty good and usually get the same laptimes, but they are simply more difficult to drive.
I always run light weight shells

The only other bodies I've liked on carpet was the Nazda 3 (may need to make the setup a little easier to drive first) and Blitz TSX (on higher grip carpet) but my main choice is the Speed 6 LW just like everyone else
Many thanks...
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:49 PM   #1886
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We have two asphalt tracks in my area that I've been racing at this summer. One is always meticulously prepped and sprayed with a mix of grape soda and snow cone syrup, resulting in great traction. The other track is often not prepped at all, which leaves it dusty with very low traction.

My setup works great on the high grip track. I'm basically running the kit asphalt setup but with longest camber links, 2* toe in the back, RSD progressive asphalt springs (green front, silver back: http://www.reflex-sd.com/RSD-20mm-As...ir_p_1735.html), 1* camber all around and 5.5mm ride height. Droop is 2mm in the front and 2.5mm in the back. Kit sway bars.

That setup does not work very well on the low traction track at all. The car pushes into the corner and fishtails out of the corner if I'm not super gentle on the throttle. Basically crap. I know I have to soften the car up, but my question is this: should I be softening up the springs or the sway bars first? Or both?

Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:46 PM   #1887
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the pros are running a FDR of 8 t0 8.5 with a 4.5T booted and turbo.
Yes, but 4.5t doesn't need as much boost as slower motors and a 7.5 is a much slower motor. Back in the 17.5 boosted days I think most guys were 6-6.5 FDR with a ton of boost. My 10.5 car I run 7.5 fdr with way more boost than my 4.5t can take. If I gear it higher, say 6.5 fdr it's slower and hotter no matter what boost settings I use.
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Old 06-16-2014, 04:08 AM   #1888
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maybe i am missing something here but anyone using current limiting to assist in heat management?, granted different tracks may get more or less advantage out of this, but it definitely helped me,.. i run 4.5t boosted geared around 6.5 to 7.0 depending on tyre size ( foam lola class ) on medium /large outdoor asphalt
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:48 PM   #1889
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
We have two asphalt tracks in my area that I've been racing at this summer. One is always meticulously prepped and sprayed with a mix of grape soda and snow cone syrup, resulting in great traction. The other track is often not prepped at all, which leaves it dusty with very low traction.

My setup works great on the high grip track. I'm basically running the kit asphalt setup but with longest camber links, 2* toe in the back, RSD progressive asphalt springs (green front, silver back: http://www.reflex-sd.com/RSD-20mm-As...ir_p_1735.html), 1* camber all around and 5.5mm ride height. Droop is 2mm in the front and 2.5mm in the back. Kit sway bars.

That setup does not work very well on the low traction track at all. The car pushes into the corner and fishtails out of the corner if I'm not super gentle on the throttle. Basically crap. I know I have to soften the car up, but my question is this: should I be softening up the springs or the sway bars first? Or both?

Thanks!
youll be better off lowering the roll center to get the car to roll into the corners more as a starting point
2mm inner front and 2/3mm inner rear camberlinks
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Old 06-16-2014, 03:04 PM   #1890
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youll be better off lowering the roll center to get the car to roll into the corners more as a starting point
2mm inner front and 2/3mm inner rear camberlinks
Although I see what you're saying, the kit sway bars are pretty stiff. Wouldn't thinner sway bars also result in more roll? Not trying to challenge your opinion, just trying to understand
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