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Old 05-13-2014, 10:10 AM   #1786
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Well Gilberto you add weight and I'll run the aluminum this weekend and we will see which does better head to head my friend
ROTFL....
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:19 AM   #1787
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This can be replicated by simply adding more weight preferably to the front of the car and raising your roll center will make the car act this way. Then try different droop settings starting at 2.5mm front, 2mm rear measured aboved ride height. Aluminum chassis is just another fad. I wouldn't waste my money on it. IMHO
It's not the same at all....
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:42 AM   #1788
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It's not the same at all....
If you have one on your Xray bring it to Mike's thursday . I'll like to try it on it's best condition med to high grip carpet. It didn't seem to work for Hara on asphalt at the pre-worlds.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:50 AM   #1789
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^^^
This is not true. Granted he was in the B, Hara's winning B1 time was faster or nearly identical to Volker's A1 time, in B2, he ran a time that was good enough for a top 3 in the A.

Hayato ran an aluminum chassis as well and he was in the A Main, challenging for the lead in one of the mains too.

The aluminum chassis is not better or worse, like many people here are saying. It's just different. As to whether it is better for high or low grip is really dependent on how much flex you are willing to risk on the aluminum chassis. If you are willing to run it with less top deck screws to increase flex at the expense of some durability, it is fantastic in lower grip.

One thing is for sure, the lower cg makes a car easier to drive. It becomes more stable and predictable. It is also fantastic over corner dots.

The one issue where carbon is superior is the resistance to tweak. One hard wreck on an aluminum chassis, and it could be all she wrote.
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:32 PM   #1790
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^^^
I agree, it's not better or worse (well it could, if you have a hard hit). I'm not even sure if those guys change chassis between heats. I know for sure that Volker was using the carbon fiber chassis. But I'll leave it at that, it is just not for me.
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:35 PM   #1791
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ROTFL....
I'll be almost in Florida Thursday or I would. Not gonna be at Valkaria this weekend?
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:17 AM   #1792
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I'll be at Mike's thursday night in Texas and Valkaria on Sunday. Carpet and asphalt.....Living it up!
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:46 AM   #1793
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I'll be at Mike's thursday night in Texas and Valkaria on Sunday. Carpet and asphalt.....Living it up!
Guess I will see u Sunday then lol
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:04 AM   #1794
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Hey guys
Just wondering if anyone uses reedy 7000mah 65c Lipos in their t4. Im currently using the t4'13 and find that the lipo slightly touches the the tip of the rotor on my orion motor. I yet havent used the battery because of this. The pack is slightly puffed as which is normal apparently on these batteries? This is very annoying considering the price tag. Please let me know how you use this pack without dramas. Cheers!
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:09 AM   #1795
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just dremel the motorshaft down a little
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:10 AM   #1796
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Hey guys
Just wondering if anyone uses reedy 7000mah 65c Lipos in their t4. Im currently using the t4'13 and find that the lipo slightly touches the the tip of the rotor on my orion motor. I yet havent used the battery because of this. The pack is slightly puffed as which is normal apparently on these batteries? This is very annoying considering the price tag. Please let me know how you use this pack without dramas. Cheers!
cut your motor rotor shorter
or use XRAY & ARENA Pinion gear
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:36 AM   #1797
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Hey guys
Just wondering if anyone uses reedy 7000mah 65c Lipos in their t4. Im currently using the t4'13 and find that the lipo slightly touches the the tip of the rotor on my orion motor. I yet havent used the battery because of this. The pack is slightly puffed as which is normal apparently on these batteries? This is very annoying considering the price tag. Please let me know how you use this pack without dramas. Cheers!
It's common on the T4, old and new T414, some of the motors have a slightly longer shaft, also some don't fit the plastic nuts that stop the battery sliding in under cornering loads, saw someone cook a motor because of that once.

You could also grind out the battery retainers a little and make sure you secure the battery just a little further out.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:15 AM   #1798
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Originally Posted by AleD123 View Post
Hey guys
Just wondering if anyone uses reedy 7000mah 65c Lipos in their t4. Im currently using the t4'13 and find that the lipo slightly touches the the tip of the rotor on my orion motor. I yet havent used the battery because of this. The pack is slightly puffed as which is normal apparently on these batteries? This is very annoying considering the price tag. Please let me know how you use this pack without dramas. Cheers!
I have seen quite a few people cut their motor shafts down, I wouldn't recommend this, will most definitely void your warranty as well. I use the Xray narrow pinions, which are really good quality and run super quiet, which is why I still use them on my bd7
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:30 AM   #1799
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the only thing that will hold the lipo secure without moving is tape,i have used the battery stops from a tc6,using one screw and a bit if shoe goo ,itll stop it moving side ways,since i started using tape i havent had a pinion touch ,and i use schumacher or rw pinions,never even seen an xray pinion so cant compare
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Old 05-25-2014, 02:08 PM   #1800
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Originally Posted by AleD123 View Post
Hey guys
Just wondering if anyone uses reedy 7000mah 65c Lipos in their t4. Im currently using the t4'13 and find that the lipo slightly touches the the tip of the rotor on my orion motor. I yet havent used the battery because of this. The pack is slightly puffed as which is normal apparently on these batteries? This is very annoying considering the price tag. Please let me know how you use this pack without dramas. Cheers!
I use these packs, they are all swollen from new but don't normally get any worse. Very good packs and worth the money.

Just grind the motor shaft down so it no longer touches. I had to do it on a couple of motors.
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