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Old 03-06-2014, 12:40 PM   #1501
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Originally Posted by martinskarin View Post
In front I always use 2mm on the top to make the damper straight. Also tried 4mm top 2mm bottom but I felt the rotation was not good and the car had too little steering through the entire corner.
That's interesting. The two explanations I can think of for that would be that having the shocks farther away from the arm centerline puts more twist into them causing bind on the hingepin, or that as has been mentioned just moving the shocks forward moves weight forward reducing entry/mid steering and increases MoI reducing rotation. If I can get my car feeling dialed on Saturday, I'll have to play with it.

-Mike

Last edited by grippgoat; 03-06-2014 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:23 PM   #1502
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That's interesting. The two explanations I can think of for that would be that having the shocks farther away from the arm centerline puts more twist into them causing bind on the hingepin, or that as has been mentioned just moving the shocks forward moves weight forward reducing entry/mid steering and increases MoI reducing rotation. If I can get my car feeling dialed on Saturday, I'll have to play with it.

-Mike
Forgot to mention that my testing was done in low to medium grip asphalt, it might work better in higher grip.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:13 PM   #1503
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Got my aluminum chassis in yesterday and did a fast chassis swap before Friday night racing. I recommend it as it made the car easier and more consistent to drive!! Plus it looks great!
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:52 AM   #1504
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CasSO quality aside....

http://www.redrc.net/2014/03/cso-sup...it/#more-78126

There's some interesting stuff there. Adjustable battery stop on the motor mount. Centerline mounting of the motor mount with the layshaft hanging off it. Single-sided layshaft.

And I'm really curious what the steering bridge to the top deck with split FR blocks feels like.

-Mike
I agree if xray made that motor mount it would be out of stock everywere

Steering bridge to top deck wouldnt be a good idea yokomo guys remove it
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:10 PM   #1505
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Got the new hard bumper in today. Weights are listed below on the 3 different ones I have.

Stock (14.12mm) - 3.2

CSO (Xt-4051) (14.45mm) - 7.3

Hard (301226) (12.50mm) - 15.0

Last edited by PROMODVETTE; 03-10-2014 at 06:14 PM. Reason: added thickness dimension
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:22 PM   #1506
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Aluminum chassis is sweet on high traction carpet. Took a little getting used to, but the car changes directions like Allen Iverson circa 2001. And I'm not talkin bout practice.

I changed setup a few times, but in the end arrived at something very close to my CF chassis setup.

Essential if you like a responsive car and run on high traction carpet.
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:04 PM   #1507
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My home made bumper brace. I know it's a little huge.

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Old 03-11-2014, 08:13 AM   #1508
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My home made bumper brace. I know it's a little huge.

itll be interesting to see how that affects the handlng,whats the weight of it?
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Old 03-12-2014, 03:39 AM   #1509
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Does anyone know the smallest and largest 64dp pinion/spur combo that will fit in the T4'14?

I have a chart for 48dp but a friend (another Tamiya 418 refugee ) is trying to work out what 64dp stuff will fit.

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:31 AM   #1510
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Does anyone know the smallest and largest 64dp pinion/spur combo that will fit in the T4'14?

I have a chart for 48dp but a friend (another Tamiya 418 refugee ) is trying to work out what 64dp stuff will fit.

Thanks
Would it be same like the '13? I have run 92/47 think a few more teeth on pinion is doable. Had to file a bit on the top deck tho u remember.
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:33 AM   #1511
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if you know the sizes in 48dp you can find them in 64dp.

for example a 66t 48dp spur with 40t 48dp pinion should can be calculated.

(original spur tooth count / original size ) * new size = new spur tooth count.
(66 / 48) * 64 = 88t

66t spur in 48dp would be 88t spur in 64dp
42t pinion in 48dp would be 56t in 64dp.


**happy to be corrected if a more accurate and easier method can be used***
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:30 AM   #1512
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if you know the sizes in 48dp you can find them in 64dp.

for example a 66t 48dp spur with 40t 48dp pinion should can be calculated.

(original spur tooth count / original size ) * new size = new spur tooth count.
(66 / 48) * 64 = 88t

66t spur in 48dp would be 88t spur in 64dp
42t pinion in 48dp would be 56t in 64dp.


**happy to be corrected if a more accurate and easier method can be used***
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:54 PM   #1513
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TDX Chassis:

Last night I reassembled my older T4'14 onto a TDX chassis I bought in Hong Kong after scraping the crap out of my kit chassis, and damaging the front of it a bit. The thiiiick layer of carpet goop on the kit chassis after my recent 6-hour enduro pushed me over the edge to actually install the chassis.

Here are a few observations before my initial run on track:
- The material appears to be carbon all the way through. No funky yellow rings in the counter-sunk holes
- The chassis is cut in a bit deeper on the ends, kind of around the droop screws.
- The chassis is 1-2mm narrower per side
- All the hole positioning and counter-sinking is fantastic. Everything fit nicely with no signs of tweaking. My front arms had a .1 shim from the kit chassis, and I kept that, with no shimming on the rear arms. The arms have no slop and no binding.

I'll report back after running it on the track tonight. Later this week when I strip the car back down to sand / seal (was in a hurry), I'll more directly compare the flex feel of the two bare chassis plates. I'll also measure the thickness.

-Mike
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:02 PM   #1514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
CasSO quality aside....

http://www.redrc.net/2014/03/cso-sup...it/#more-78126

There's some interesting stuff there. Adjustable battery stop on the motor mount. Centerline mounting of the motor mount with the layshaft hanging off it. Single-sided layshaft.

And I'm really curious what the steering bridge to the top deck with split FR blocks feels like.

-Mike
It would be much better if the chassis plate is made of real carbon...
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:49 PM   #1515
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Aluminum Chassis

I decided to get one to see what the fuss was about. I wasn't disappointed. Car was much easier to drive, and seemed to pull out of the corners a little harder. It made the car feel much different. Lap times were the same as the carbon.

I would recommend it if you are looking for something to calm the car down in the corners, or for the fun of trying something new.

Chris
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