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Old 03-05-2014, 04:49 PM   #1486
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Can you feel the handling difference when you change your pinion by 1-2 teeth? I'd be surprised if moving two shocks by 1-2mm would make more difference than that. Not trying to call you out or anything, I'm actually curious. I've felt handling differences going from a 70 spur to a 74 spur with the larger pinion for the same gear ratio due to moving the motor forward.

-Mike
I had a very hard time telling a difference, but honestly I run almost exclusively on asphalt and as such, handling can change within 10 minutes due to weather so it's hard to get an honest back to back.

When I talked about the changes in handling from weight changes, I was talking in general, not necessarily a noticeable difference from the shocks moving.

I personally just run enough shims to get the shocks straight up and down.
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:34 PM   #1487
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Can you feel the handling difference when you change your pinion by 1-2 teeth? I'd be surprised if moving two shocks by 1-2mm would make more difference than that. Not trying to call you out or anything, I'm actually curious. I've felt handling differences going from a 70 spur to a 74 spur with the larger pinion for the same gear ratio due to moving the motor forward.

-Mike
I have changed the shims on the front shocks from 1mm to 2mm when running an LTC-R and with 2mm it was more drivable.

Yes, it does make a noticeable difference on some tracks/setups
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:38 PM   #1488
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Question: Has anyone ever thought about making an aluminum Differential Case & Housing for the T4??? I surely would buy a few.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:49 PM   #1489
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Originally Posted by rafyel View Post
Question: Has anyone ever thought about making an aluminum Differential Case & Housing for the T4??? I surely would buy a few.
What do you think you would gain from that? Xray has some of, if not the best plastic moulding in the industry.
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:16 PM   #1490
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Shims as I understand them are just used to make the shocks stand more or less straight up and down... The less shock angle front to back, the less the suspension will bind or
Change throughout travel. The more the shocks are angled front to back or back to front the more they bind creating progressive suspension changes..as subtle as it might be... Almost like arm sweep causes the suspension to bind slightly mid stroke ... I basically just try to gets the shocks to stand up as vertically as possible with shims so to eliminate any progressive changes in suspension movements. Quite simply put, my goal is to eliminate variables to simplify tuning!
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:26 PM   #1491
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I have changed the shims on the front shocks from 1mm to 2mm when running an LTC-R and with 2mm it was more drivable.

Yes, it does make a noticeable difference on some tracks/setups
Was that top and bottom, or just top, or just bottom?

-Mike
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:39 PM   #1492
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Shims as I understand them are just used to make the shocks stand more or less straight up and down... The less shock angle front to back, the less the suspension will bind or
Change throughout travel. The more the shocks are angled front to back or back to front the more they bind creating progressive suspension changes..as subtle as it might be... Almost like arm sweep causes the suspension to bind slightly mid stroke ... I basically just try to gets the shocks to stand up as vertically as possible with shims so to eliminate any progressive changes in suspension movements. Quite simply put, my goal is to eliminate variables to simplify tuning!
Thant's not quite how it works.
It's not "binding".
Rather what happens is it's a small increase or decrease in the spring rate.
similar to moving shocks up a hole on the mount, but not nearly as drastic.
e.g. say your front shocks are dead straight when viewing car from the side, when you brake and the chassis tilts forwards, the shock is now leaning forward in relation to the ground and this "softens" the spring like moving a shock in a hole on the tower, but not as drastic.

You could move the bottom of the shock out so when chassis dips, its straight in relation to the ground, making a stiffer feel.

the same is true at the rear.

Moving the whole shock out with more shims top and bottom gives a slightly softer feel.

These adjustments are good when you want a slight adjustment. not as drastic as moving shock on tower or changing the spring.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:33 AM   #1493
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Moving the shocks out equally top and bottom makes the car easier to drive on high grip surfaces. It will feel less responsive. This is grip on high grip carpet but on low grip carpet I perfer no shims because this makes the car more direct to drive.

Shimming only the top or bottom changes the angle and feels like going in/out a hole on the tower but the effect is more subtile.
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Old 03-06-2014, 01:36 AM   #1494
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To anyone who runs HPI Vintage or X-Pattern tires: have you tried raising the hinge pins? If so, what were your observations?

-Mike
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:07 AM   #1495
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My testing on the T4 13 with using 2mm shim in the rear is that when using shim the car does not rotate that "sharp" and is easier to drive a little like when raising or lowering the dampers in the top mounting position, works best on large track on small tracks the car can be too hard to turn around the corners with Shims.

In front I always use 2mm on the top to make the damper straight. Also tried 4mm top 2mm bottom but I felt the rotation was not good and the car had too little steering through the entire corner.
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:45 AM   #1496
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Was that top and bottom, or just top, or just bottom?

-Mike
Just at the top.
I have used it back to back in runs in consistent conditions and found it useful.

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Old 03-06-2014, 04:56 AM   #1497
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Seeking durability from small stones on Asphalt racing, and the matching benefits we get from the aluminum 20T pulleys by CSO, Zeppin, and Reflex Racing.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:17 AM   #1498
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Seeking durability from small stones on Asphalt racing, and the matching benefits we get from the aluminum 20T pulleys by CSO, Zeppin, and Reflex Racing.
i cant see any benefits in the ali pulleys,i use the std plastics and havent had a problem with those,stones are a bug bear of belt drive cars and theres no way around it,losi and their old xxx-s car was fairly enclosed but still had issues
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:36 AM   #1499
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There is the sharpness I've noticed in the alu pulleys that helps to grab the belt keeping it from slipping as much compared to the plastics when you run a loose fit belt for smoothness of the drivetrain.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:37 PM   #1500
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CasSO quality aside....

http://www.redrc.net/2014/03/cso-sup...it/#more-78126

There's some interesting stuff there. Adjustable battery stop on the motor mount. Centerline mounting of the motor mount with the layshaft hanging off it. Single-sided layshaft.

And I'm really curious what the steering bridge to the top deck with split FR blocks feels like.

-Mike
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