Speed Passion brand new Spec Racing LeMans car - The LM1
#856
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Tons of runs. I think a few locals are 30-40 packs on the same tires.
#857
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
http://shop.speedpowerrc.com and http://www.speedpassion.net (USA) come from the same place. In regards to parts, what are you looking for? The stock is always updated. I was waiting on some of the CF parts which have come in (and some are out again). Inventory is always coming and going so if there is something you are looking for, check every couple of days.
This car doesn't really need much. I've only broken a king pin which I believe was user error (since I didn't know what I was doing).
This car doesn't really need much. I've only broken a king pin which I believe was user error (since I didn't know what I was doing).
#858
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
In all honesty, I've had some really good fun racing this car with you guys and I can say, you've successfully converted me to the dark side of on-road racing.
#864
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I really need to stop snapping king pins. Or maybe keep my car off the boards. Still I prefer replacing a king pin to replacing the steering upright, upper and lower arm. This car is still a blast. We only practiced this Friday, but still had more fun watching everyone try to beat the fastest lap of the night.
#865
Not liking the car that much, lots of pod chatter in the turns. Never saw this in a AE 10L or 12L. Am set to about 4mm ride height, is this to much and should I maybe drop it to around 2 mm? I could stiffen up the pod, thought of some fuel tubing to cushion the stops. It really feels like the car hits max pod deflection and gets bindy in the corners, don't remember the T-bar cars doing this. One thing I do remember though is always running the car low enough to get some chassis rub in the corners when on carpet, maybe the same is needed here.
Only other thought is have the shorty pack and have it forward, maybe moving it back would help. First time out ran full size pack and car felt good, although didn't drive it as hard that first week as I do now.
Only other thought is have the shorty pack and have it forward, maybe moving it back would help. First time out ran full size pack and car felt good, although didn't drive it as hard that first week as I do now.
#866
LM-1 body on a TC6.1
Has anyone tried to mount the LM-1 body on a TC6.1? This body looks too good not to be on one of my cars.
#867
Tech Champion
iTrader: (42)
Not liking the car that much, lots of pod chatter in the turns. Never saw this in a AE 10L or 12L. Am set to about 4mm ride height, is this to much and should I maybe drop it to around 2 mm? I could stiffen up the pod, thought of some fuel tubing to cushion the stops. It really feels like the car hits max pod deflection and gets bindy in the corners, don't remember the T-bar cars doing this. One thing I do remember though is always running the car low enough to get some chassis rub in the corners when on carpet, maybe the same is needed here.
Only other thought is have the shorty pack and have it forward, maybe moving it back would help. First time out ran full size pack and car felt good, although didn't drive it as hard that first week as I do now.
Only other thought is have the shorty pack and have it forward, maybe moving it back would help. First time out ran full size pack and car felt good, although didn't drive it as hard that first week as I do now.
I don't think it would sit low enough to look good on a TC car.
#868
I'd re-check your build and/or screws. Not sure why your are getting pod chatter. We have a good number of these running locally and no one has experienced this. 4mm is pretty standard for ride height. Is something lese binding? wiring when body is on?
I don't think it would sit low enough to look good on a TC car.
I don't think it would sit low enough to look good on a TC car.
wheelbase and the LM-1 is 270mm. Regards
Norman
#869
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (35)
I just finished assembling my LM1 kit and I must say I'm quite pleased. Aside from a couple of easily sorted inaccuracies on the instructions everything went smooth and no missing parts, just some extras. I did buy a carbon rear axle and aluminum roll dampers for the initial build after reading through this thread and noting both of these as weak points. The only thing I would add so far would be an aluminum left motor mount and maybe a couple of carbon goodies to cut out some weight.
When installing the carbon rear axle I noticed that the diff side of the axle was slightly shorter and did not allow enough room to use the spring washers and flat washer. On my Bolink pro10 I only ever use a flat washer and nut against the bearing on the diff and never have a problem with smoothness or adjustment. So I just went with the flanged lock nut against the bearing and we will see how it works. Did anyone else experience this issue when installing the carbon rear axle?
Electronics will hopefully be in the car in the next few days then it's test and tune time.
When installing the carbon rear axle I noticed that the diff side of the axle was slightly shorter and did not allow enough room to use the spring washers and flat washer. On my Bolink pro10 I only ever use a flat washer and nut against the bearing on the diff and never have a problem with smoothness or adjustment. So I just went with the flanged lock nut against the bearing and we will see how it works. Did anyone else experience this issue when installing the carbon rear axle?
Electronics will hopefully be in the car in the next few days then it's test and tune time.