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Old 03-07-2014, 09:54 PM   #781
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one thing i wanted to ask about the lm1 is that the body .. are there certain parts held together by double sided tape or do you use a screw and bolt ?
The nose piece under the windshield and the 2 piece rear fin is held on and held together with supplied 3M 2-sided tape that is plenty strong. There are also two, small air deflectors under the headlights that I didnt put on. The wing sides are held on by 2 sided tape but I reinforced the attaching point with shoo-goo. The wing center is supposed to be screwed to the sides, but I used the tape and shoo-goo for flexibility.

The most important thing I did was shoo-goo and drywall tape the spots on both sides of the cockpit below the windshield that come already super thin and cracked out of the box.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:16 PM   #782
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Has anyone else had issues with the 3mm set screws stripping? Both of mine on the rear axle did. Also appeared to be short two 3 mm lock nuts. Should I expect some spare parts and screws? Not the best kit I have put together, hope it drives well
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:31 PM   #783
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Chris how did you strip those 3mm set screws? Did you over tighten? I have extra 3mm nuts if you need them. See you next Sunday.

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Has anyone else had issues with the 3mm set screws stripping? Both of mine on the rear axle did. Also appeared to be short two 3 mm lock nuts. Should I expect some spare parts and screws? Not the best kit I have put together, hope it drives well
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:39 PM   #784
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Chris how did you strip those 3mm set screws? Did you over tighten? I have extra 3mm nuts if you need them. See you next Sunday.
The 1.5 mm set screw wrench I was using was loose in them while the 2mm was too big. I think the 1.5 stripped them. I put those two in the front blocks. Using a 1/16" wrench works perfectly in the set screws so the axle is together.

Now I just need to get the nose down 4 mm to 5mm ride height it is currently at 9. Back ride height is at 5.

I won't be there this Sunday, but will be there the following when many are at the TAMIYA race. I will also be at the doughnut race.

Chris
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:57 AM   #785
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Use a longer screw and add shims on top of the spacer between the lower arm mount. I run 4 mm in there and my car ends up around 4.5 mm up front once droop and preload are set.
How do you set the droop on this car? I get the preload, just don't see a setting for droop?

Got it together, and was super glad to see the body had the mounting holes premarked.

Does any one use foam on the front bumper to save the chassis some?

Chris

Last edited by Cgolf; 03-08-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 03-08-2014, 08:36 PM   #786
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so after a recent trip to my local hobby store that advertized they had two carpet tracks .............. ( i took a 4 year hiatus from the hobby been doing this for almost 20 years now)

there i was sitting in a room with about 20 people at benches with all these blinged out aluminum and carbon fiber cambered out plastic wheeled cars.. that slide around at about 2mph .. and im sitting there thinking to my self like .. " so this is it .. this is cool now"..."wow none of these people know how to drive"


there is no scene .. where i live to my knowledge and i want one of these cars to race with in a class so bad
I have a somewhat similar situation at our local carpet track. They did have a nice road course, but now they just use only the oval track now; no road course racing at all! Over the years some of us, usually led by myself, have tried to get touring car, pan car, and F1 classes going, and for a while they seem to do well and grow....but eventually the oval racers take over and everything switches back to NASCAR type oval racing only! Where I live in upstate New York most of the rc car racers are into either NASCAR or dirt oval racing and they are VERY prejudiced against anything other than that, and they particularly don't like F1 at all! So since they are the majority that is why they always end up getting their way and the road course gets put aside and it's oval only!😠

So my friends and I who do like F1 and other forms of road course racing such as the LeMans cars, end up doing our racing in the spring and summer outdoors at a school parking lot by ourselves, where we can do what we want!
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:57 PM   #787
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Sorry don't know if this has been asked before . I went back a few pages and didn't see anything .

I an having trouble with my front steering rack the top plate is sitting on the steering link and is not letting it move . I've followed the directions on putting it together. I have the shims it says to put under it but its doesn't seem to sit right.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:16 PM   #788
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Sorry don't know if this has been asked before . I went back a few pages and didn't see anything .

I an having trouble with my front steering rack the top plate is sitting on the steering link and is not letting it move . I've followed the directions on putting it together. I have the shims it says to put under it but its doesn't seem to sit right.
Thanks Chris (Bodies By Bean)
Curious what others say, but I just built mine and with the 5 degree blocks and the specified shims with the riser piece at at 0 instead of -0.5 like the instructions I found I had to put 2 mm worth of shims under the steering posts. This got the turnbuckles off the top plate and everything moves freely. The steering rack is very close too the top plate, possibly rubbing, but is it is all free so it should be fine.


This area of the car is a bit tedious to adjust, has anyone gotten rid of the bellcrank altogether and Gone straight to the servo? I remember setting up my AE 10L oval car like that.

Chris
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #789
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Think I found out what I did wrong. Don't work on your RC stuff at 3:00 am
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:19 AM   #790
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Originally Posted by Cgolf View Post
Curious what others say, but I just built mine and with the 5 degree blocks and the specified shims with the riser piece at at 0 instead of -0.5 like the instructions I found I had to put 2 mm worth of shims under the steering posts. This got the turnbuckles off the top plate and everything moves freely. The steering rack is very close too the top plate, possibly rubbing, but is it is all free so it should be fine.


This area of the car is a bit tedious to adjust, has anyone gotten rid of the bellcrank altogether and Gone straight to the servo? I remember setting up my AE 10L oval car like that.

Chris
To answer your droop question. Pick up the nose of the car fully loaded. The amount the springs rebound before the tires leave the ground is droop.

As far as getting rid of the bellcrank, try it and see how it feels. It shouldn't bee a problem.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:24 AM   #791
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I'm working on the the parts car. Using a pair of ride height bars with the fin shaved off between them works great instead of fighting with the little plastic spacers. Thanks for the pointer E.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:18 AM   #792
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Make that 2 ride height shims with -.5 side up and 2mm spacer. Second chassis is now a full roller with servo. I added the optional AL dampers, CF battery brace/side spring perch, AL lower arm mounts, lower POM pivot balls, AL deck posts and steering bridge. I used a Kimbrough Medium servo saver in place of the stock arm. Parts box is now looking kinda.... low.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:47 AM   #793
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Hello

any one a found some idea for mount "normal" pan car tire ?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:59 AM   #794
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Hello

any one a found some idea for mount "normal" pan car tire ?
I have to ask: Why would you do that if we are running the included tire as the spec tire? Plenty of other pan cars already out there.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:27 AM   #795
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I have to ask: Why would you do that if we are running the included tire as the spec tire? Plenty of other pan cars already out there.
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