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Old 01-20-2015, 03:10 AM   #241
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Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Sorry I should also add, if you can get hold of a set Yokomo YF-36RS2 rears they are a good thing in the morning on a cooler track where the Rides wont work.

I lent Rob a new set to try in the morning while I was prepping my touring car and from all concerned were an improvement over the Shimizu 0575.

Just something else to have in your tyre box
Thanks..have just ordered some from HootRC in Aussy..have some tamiya rims they can go on.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:58 AM   #242
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So the car the car comes with a rack style steering but looks like most switched to direct steering.
Question: Does anyone prefer the feel of the rack steering over direct? (just curious)
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:11 PM   #243
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So the car the car comes with a rack style steering but looks like most switched to direct steering.
Question: Does anyone prefer the feel of the rack steering over direct? (just curious)
The rack steering feels fine however when spaced to provide proper Ackerman it becomes fragile and is always sloppy compared to direct mounting.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:32 PM   #244
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hmmm just started building the Type 2 Bladder shocks and noticed mine came with the titanium shafts ? so looks like I now have 2 sets of titanium shafts...
Was everyone else's the same ??
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:50 PM   #245
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hmmm just started building the Type 2 Bladder shocks and noticed mine came with the titanium shafts ? so looks like I now have 2 sets of titanium shafts...
Was everyone else's the same ??
yeah mine were and same i have spare set shafts and glad they were cheap.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:56 AM   #246
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hmmm just started building the Type 2 Bladder shocks and noticed mine came with the titanium shafts ? so looks like I now have 2 sets of titanium shafts...
Was everyone else's the same ??
Just delivered today.

All shafts titanium.
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Old 01-23-2015, 06:48 PM   #247
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Well after a disastrous night of racing at my local track, I don't have much if any good news to report about my car.
All night I was struggling with inconsistent & vague handling, and traction issues which resulted in a big off the track journey for my car, and into a building support beam that badly damaged the front wing.

Last night going into the corners was like playing russian roulette, where the car switched between understeer, and oversteer, at random points in the same corner each different lap.
The only thing that Beth & I could think about what was causing this, was that I had too thick of oil in the shocks for the lower grip surface. I was reluctant to change the oil for I didn't have the time between races to do so, and the type 1 shocks are a pain in the butt to work on at the best of times.
One thing I didn't try was a different set of tires, as I didn't have any different ones to try on the night either, so that may be an option to look at, if I decide to persist with this car.

It was also suggested that I try bolting on a F103 front end, as I felt that the original front end coupled with the F104 tires felt like I had "marshmallows" on the front of the car when going through the corners, but I'm also reluctant to do that, because at this point in time I really don't want to spend anymore time & money on the car, as I have this fear that it won't make it better, and will just be a money pit that empties my wallet without any improvement.

Even with the success with the car last weekend, I am still not happy with the car, and when others ask me what I think of it, I reply with "It's the 2nd worse car I have ever owned" and explain the details of why I feel that way.

Beth's car however was totally opposite, it was dialed in, and looked like it was on rails the whole night.

Regards
Rob.
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:33 PM   #248
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Like any other car it will take some time to figure out, probably longer than most with the odd rear suspension.

I havent gotten mine comparable to my t-bar cars yet but after a couple club races it is on par with most of the link cars i have worked with. Once I find some forward bite and low speed steering it will be a real contender.

If tuning isn't your thing and you want a car where a single setup will work reasonably well everywhere an f104wgp would be your best bet.
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Old 01-23-2015, 10:57 PM   #249
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Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
Well after a disastrous night of racing at my local track, I don't have much if any good news to report about my car.
All night I was struggling with inconsistent & vague handling, and traction issues which resulted in a big off the track journey for my car, and into a building support beam that badly damaged the front wing.

Last night going into the corners was like playing russian roulette, where the car switched between understeer, and oversteer, at random points in the same corner each different lap.
The only thing that Beth & I could think about what was causing this, was that I had too thick of oil in the shocks for the lower grip surface. I was reluctant to change the oil for I didn't have the time between races to do so, and the type 1 shocks are a pain in the butt to work on at the best of times.
One thing I didn't try was a different set of tires, as I didn't have any different ones to try on the night either, so that may be an option to look at, if I decide to persist with this car.

It was also suggested that I try bolting on a F103 front end, as I felt that the original front end coupled with the F104 tires felt like I had "marshmallows" on the front of the car when going through the corners, but I'm also reluctant to do that, because at this point in time I really don't want to spend anymore time & money on the car, as I have this fear that it won't make it better, and will just be a money pit that empties my wallet without any improvement.

Even with the success with the car last weekend, I am still not happy with the car, and when others ask me what I think of it, I reply with "It's the 2nd worse car I have ever owned" and explain the details of why I feel that way.

Beth's car however was totally opposite, it was dialed in, and looked like it was on rails the whole night.

Regards
Rob.
Thats a shame and sounds like different tyres could be most of the issue as have found tyres are 90 percent of setup on an f1 and make a huge difference to steering, grip etc.

also an interesting quote i just came across.
'The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.'...I know this applies to me.
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Last edited by malcnz; 01-23-2015 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:17 AM   #250
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Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
Like any other car it will take some time to figure out, probably longer than most with the odd rear suspension.

I havent gotten mine comparable to my t-bar cars yet but after a couple club races it is on par with most of the link cars i have worked with. Once I find some forward bite and low speed steering it will be a real contender.

If tuning isn't your thing and you want a car where a single setup will work reasonably well everywhere an f104wgp would be your best bet.
That's where I have been struggling as well, trying to get some forward bite, and low speed steering. I have been using a low down force wing on the front which probably is half the problem, but I also believe that with the direct steering setup, there's just not enough turning angle of the front wheels. Regardless of where I move the servo for ackerman, or what angle the servo is, the front wheels only turn a minimal amount of degree's, especially the outside wheel, and am at a loss at how to address this.

I don't mind tuning a car, but when you try changing things and the handling doesn't respond to those changes, what do you do?
The front end has more "slop" in it than any Tamiya car I have owned, so trying to make small & measurable changes is all but impossible, and you end up just hoping that you have made the right change. I have tried everything I can to eliminate the slop, without making any moving part bind but after just one race it's all loose again.

Don't get me wrong, the car is quick, and quicker than a lot of other cars out there, but the inconsistency and amount of slop in the front suspension is having me all but tear my hair out. If mounting a F103 or F104 front end is needed to be fitted to the car to rectify this, then I would have just gone out and bought a F104 based car. But then again, that is what I done with one of my older cars, is that I matched a F103 front end to a 3 Racing F113, and it made the car easier & more consistent to drive.

On the other side of the coin, I don't want to ditch the car, or the front suspension, because I can see how good the car can be on the track when I watch Beth's car, and have this fear that if I do this, I will be taking a backwards step.

Seeing how I have to replace the front wing, I'll go with a high downforce one, along with using lighter oil in the shocks, and see if I borrow a set of rear tires for next week, and will hopefully be able to have some good news after race night.

Regards
Rob.
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:49 AM   #251
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That's where I have been struggling as well, trying to get some forward bite, and low speed steering. I have been using a low down force wing on the front which probably is half the problem, but I also believe that with the direct steering setup, there's just not enough turning angle of the front wheels. Regardless of where I move the servo for ackerman, or what angle the servo is, the front wheels only turn a minimal amount of degree's, especially the outside wheel, and am at a loss at how to address this.
Regards
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Sounds to me like a traction issue.
Wrong compound or wrong additive.(or both)
Slow speed traction is (in my experience) not influenced by the front spring.
A little more camber, and less caster could help.

I still think this car has an big potential,
but as said that takes time.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:07 AM   #252
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Beth,
Saw pics of you on Facebook this morning. They were on the RC Formula 1page. Congrats. You're famous now!
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:40 PM   #253
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Beth,
Saw pics of you on Facebook this morning. They were on the RC Formula 1page. Congrats. You're famous now!
If only it were true

So the breakdown from our club day, yep Rob's car wasn't happy all night and mine was dialled from the word go, the only difference was I was running the type 2 shocks with 700wt oil and 4 hole pistons, so my rear was much lighter then Robs. Even though I won by a considerable margin, I still wasn't happy with the low speed steering either so switched to 5 deg caster this week.

The other thing I found out, the Yokomo soft rears which worked a treat on a well prepared and grippy track, didn't work so well on a lower grip track, the Shimizu 575's were quicker, the Yokomo's just didn't have the side bite.

Hopefully we can get Rob's car running right this Friday

Beth.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:28 PM   #254
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If only it were true

So the breakdown from our club day, yep Rob's car wasn't happy all night and mine was dialled from the word go, the only difference was I was running the type 2 shocks with 700wt oil and 4 hole pistons, so my rear was much lighter then Robs. Even though I won by a considerable margin, I still wasn't happy with the low speed steering either so switched to 5 deg caster this week.

The other thing I found out, the Yokomo soft rears which worked a treat on a well prepared and grippy track, didn't work so well on a lower grip track, the Shimizu 575's were quicker, the Yokomo's just didn't have the side bite.

Hopefully we can get Rob's car running right this Friday

Beth.
Hi Beth,

speaking of tyres...what do you think i should have for the nats coming up.
temps should be mid 25 plus air temp and the surface is newish asphalt with medium grip.
have the ride 1 for rear plus the yokomo YF-36RS2 you mentioned other day and have the shimizu medium for front you said and got some Pit Shimizu PS-0577 fronts and what else would you recommend?
cheers.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:01 PM   #255
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I would still have a set of the Shimizu 575's rears just in case its really cold in the morning or overcast and the Yokomo's don't work.
Just stick with the mediums on the front and only change the rear tyres as the temp comes up.

As a guide for track temperature for a good track (temperature of the tarmac)

0 to 20 deg use Shimizu 575's
20 to 30 deg Yokomo's
30Deg + Ride R1

Some really grippy tracks you can get away R1's at about 25 deg, but you will have to test this out beforehand. When I am at practice before an event I usually wont change too much on the setup, ill just spent the time working out what track temps the tyres like for that particular track. Then tweak the setup from there.

I know lots of guys in the states like to use the 572's (hard) on rear, but on our tracks we either find them not soft enough to work and by the time the track temp comes up the Ride's are faster. The Rides work better when they are super hot, so I normally heat them up to 60 deg before a run.

Sorry information overload...
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