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Old 12-28-2014, 04:53 PM   #136
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Just buy some RC-art, we had a few locals here order from them with no issues. Integy is asking waaaay too much for the kit.
RC Art are all good and you dont get issues with japanese shops.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:01 AM   #137
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Also if you are looking for a good body for the SJF01 the serpent shells fit really well and don't need big cut outs for the rear links
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Street Jam SJF01 Formula 1. Niiiiiiiiice!-dsc03947sm.jpg  
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:41 PM   #138
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Going to be picking one of these up, raced off-road for many years but, new to F1 and haven't had a on-road car in over 15 years.

Going to run on a small out door parking lot track (i think they use grap soda), 21.5 blinky, shorty lipo, low-pro servo, 48p spur gears and rubber tires.

What front/rear wings work good? (tamiya f104 2012?)
Are the Tamiya F104 wheels good?
Good starting gearing? (going to use 48p spur gears)
Were people going with the type-2 shocks because they are easier to build or because of their performance over the stock type-1 shocks?
What rear springs does the kit already come with?
Stock steering bellcranks or direct steering?
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:07 AM   #139
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Don't get the F2012 front wing, its huge and it eventually bends and scrapes the ground. Can't go wrong with the F60 wing set.

I've had no issues with the F104 foam wheels (Pit tires and Yokomo F1 tires mounted). They are durable and still spin true.

The type 2 shocks are just easier to build consistently. Whatever shocks you use, get the machined pistons at the very minimum.

Mines came with yellow/red springs. I hear the latest batch kits have the yellow springs.

I've switched to direct steering. Less slop and felt more natural to me. You'll need to cut the "bridge" on the lower plate. But you can adjust ackerman by moving the servo back and forth.
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:14 AM   #140
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Yep the 2012 wing is bad stay away...

Yes the new kits are are coming with the medium springs.

Got a chance to do some more testing today and tried some different wings and springs. While car felt a little better with the medium springs it was much quicker oner the run with the medium softs which was very strange.

Track was much hotter today which resulted in much quicker times went a full 7 seconds quicker over the 6 minutes
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:36 PM   #141
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Did get my Street-Jam kit a week ago.
Building it step by step,
and like it all the way!!!

Now building the shocks,
I was surprised by the use of
T-shock and like it.
I use to build all my shocks with the least rebound as possible.
The piston shaft is made on a lathe and is not smooth enough
by my opinion.
Although it is done really fine I want it to be like a mirror.
So that means polishing it till it shines.
That will make my shock last much longer.

Did not find a way to secure the kingpin in the manual,
do I need to lock it with a second screw?
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Old 01-04-2015, 04:06 PM   #142
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Quote:
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Did not find a way to secure the kingpin in the manual,
do I need to lock it with a second screw?
yes absolutely lock it in with a grub screw, its missing from the manual (same with speedpassion)

The other mod to make is cutting the lower arm plate to sit the servo lower if using direct steering,

Lastly ditch the plastic steering ball ends, mine were way too tight and you couldn't adjust them without popping off, I just used Yokomo ones as I have plenty.

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Street Jam SJF01 Formula 1. Niiiiiiiiice!-cutout.jpg   Street Jam SJF01 Formula 1. Niiiiiiiiice!-grub-screw.jpg  
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:01 AM   #143
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Thank you Evochick

the direct steering is the way I want to go,
less parts and less ball ends.

For me is the servo saver a must,
you never drive alone on the circuit !

Building the perfect diff is the next challenge.

It took me a few years to make a long lasting perfect diff for my F103
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:16 PM   #144
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Quote:
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Building the perfect diff is the next challenge.

It took me a few years to make a long lasting perfect diff for my F103
I was surprised how really easy to get perfect, I just installed ceramic bearings, I didn't have to sand the diff rings, and I can get it tight so there is no spur slip but still super smooth.
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:39 PM   #145
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Article now up on rcformula1.com.au site

http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.p...street-jam-f01
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Old 01-06-2015, 03:02 AM   #146
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So, I took the plunge as well and got myself one of the Street Jam F1 car.

Where to place the battery, and what does the battery position do in regards to the handling of the car?
My current F1 I have the battery almost fully forward, and the esc sitting towards the rear end of the car. I believe this helps to give the car a gentle push out of corners, which is what I like as I prefer a car to under steer rather than over steer.

Will this be repeatable with the Street Jam, or does it need to have the battery towards the back?

Am using a "shorty" 2 cell lipo.

Thanks
Rob.
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Old 01-06-2015, 03:30 AM   #147
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yeah I really don't know the answer to this either, and was seriously considering trying the full forward position this weekend, as I have always had my batteries towards the back
I was always under the impression the more forward increased the steering where as further back improved stability ??
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Old 01-06-2015, 04:10 AM   #148
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yeah I really don't know the answer to this either, and was seriously considering trying the full forward position this weekend, as I have always had my batteries towards the back
I was always under the impression the more forward increased the steering where as further back improved stability ??
Where I was told the opposite, towards the back makes the car more "lively" on the rear end due to a "pendulum effect" with the weight up the back.
And more weight up front gives more turn in, but pushes out of the turn due to trying to push the weight around the turn.

I think I'll go for the battery up forward, and then we can compare results, won't have the car finished for this weekend though.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:47 AM   #149
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Or you could also try the battery in the middle, see what that does handling wise,
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:32 AM   #150
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It is personal preference. Pendulum effect applies more to 2WD rear motor buggies, and the feeling is more severe than in an F1.

The weight shift is only slight when I corner balanced my cars with battery in rear, and battery in center (esc between motor and battery).

We run on a low-medium traction track 80% of the time (asphalt). 20% of the time it is high traction in the summer. I have switched my cars to all rear mounted batteries to keep the rear end more planted coming out of the turn. I tune how much steering I need with front spring rates, different compound front tires, how much front sauce, and more or less drag brake. (Low traction, Yokomo medium fronts/Tamiya kit front tires. Medium traction, 571/TCS front tires. High traction, Yokomo soft fronts)

That said, I've driven cars with batteries mounted in the front that handled good and was easy to drive, but just need to tune your suspension and tire choice. With that said, I want to give a center/front mounted battery a try again. The fast guys at our track both run rear or center mounted battery. Its like a 50/50 split.
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