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Old 06-25-2014, 10:04 AM   #466
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Dave had a pretty good ashphalt car last year for our race. Maybe he would share his setup advice? Brian bodine is also fast on ashphalt.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:16 AM   #467
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Dave had a pretty good ashphalt car last year for our race. Maybe he would share his setup advice? Brian bodine is also fast on ashphalt.
great thanks!!!
I hope they can help me out and share some setup sheets!
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:20 AM   #468
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Most of the VBC folks who respond regularly here on rctech are from North America, where we have very little 12th scale asphalt racing (unfortunately.) I think there have been some recent posts in the 12th scale thread about tire choice for asphalt, which is where I would recommend starting. Get the right tires, go from there.

I believe that with Pro-One tires we are recommending Orange rears (different than the synthetic orange Parma/Jaco used to sell) with Team Purple or Double Pink fronts.

My initial setup recommendation would be to start with the rear of the car soft (think like 15k tube lube, softest center spring you have, AE black sides.) Depending on how bumpy the track is you will likely also set ride height a bit higher, and you might also want to run a higher-downforce body like the Protoform TR-12.

Sorry I can't be of more help; we just don't have a lot of asphalt 12th racing here in North America.
Great thanks!!
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:21 AM   #469
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^^^^ This is solid advice. Tires and traction additive are going to be your main changes. Pink or magenta rears with an assortment of pink, magneta, double pink and lylac are all tires I would initially show up with. I remember black can paragon followed by an application of suntan lotion if its dusty or hot out.

But as Chris mentioned, we don't really have the opportunity to run asphalt 1/12. Its always indoors in North America.

Hopefully that helps.

-Korey
Thank you!!
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:41 PM   #470
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Ill be running on ashphalt ina couple weeks so ill report back my progress. Starting with magenta pink/blue/green crc tires and a fairly soft setup.
I tried it with my old asc car and did black greylow which worked but wore very fast. i think crc pink/pink is where ill end up but im pretty poor and dont wanna buy more tires lol
I had prepped my mod tc but blew the esc, 12th scale was a last minute afterthought for a third class.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:32 AM   #471
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What's the best battery position? across the chassis or the length of the chassis?
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:58 PM   #472
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What's the best battery position? across the chassis or the length of the chassis?
I found that placing the battery transverse (across the back) made the car easier to drive and more consistent. I know most other folks run it inline, though, so your mileage may vary.
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:17 AM   #473
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Any update on a proper shock mount w/antenna holder?
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:25 AM   #474
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It definitely is easier to drive with more traction transverse. It does loose a little sharpness though and cornering seems to be more profressive.
I run it transverse most of the time but trying to work inline back in as my skills improve.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:35 AM   #475
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Hi guys.... What's the handling differences between caster on the kingpin angle vs the spacers on the kingpin?
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:20 AM   #476
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When you say 'spacers on the kingpin' are you referring to the upper hingepin (reactive caster)?

Spacers on the kingpin itself won't change anything to do with caster, they will just change spring preload.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:01 PM   #477
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When you say 'spacers on the kingpin' are you referring to the upper hingepin (reactive caster)?

Spacers on the kingpin itself won't change anything to do with caster, they will just change spring preload.
Sorry I actually meant the upper hinge pin angel and spacers
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:25 PM   #478
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Sorry I actually meant the upper hinge pin angel and spacers
No worries.

The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.

The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:47 PM   #479
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No worries.

The spacers on the upper hingepin are dictating static caster. The more spacers you have rearwards the more static caster, vice versa for shims moved forwards. Less static caster (shims moved forward) will make the car have more steering off-center, but less steering mid-out. More static caster (shims moved rearwards) will make the car a bit lazier off-center, but with more mid-out steering. I normally switch between either the big shim forward or the big shim back, but rarely use both shims back or both shims forward.

The angle of that upper hingepin is called reactive caster, and there are three different options for how that caster block is positioned: 0, 5, and 10-degree. Reactive caster is caster change through the corner and through the suspension travel. 0 would be 'old-school' with no reactive caster (so only static caster dictated by shims, as above). With 5 and 10 it really seems to be a matter of driving style, track, and personal preference. With reactive caster the kingpin will 'stand up' and caster will be reduced as the car turns and the suspension compresses, and then as the car straightens out the caster angle will increase again. For me, I think 5-degree typically feels the most consistent through the corner for mod 12th scale, but the 10-degree can feel pretty good too, depending on track conditions. Ultimately, I would recommend trying the different options for yourself and see what you prefer.
Great, thanks for the help!
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #480
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Is there any plan to put a WGT car out this year? id like to pick up a third class for indoor that isnt 1/12 stock.
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