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Old 01-28-2014, 08:11 PM   #361
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Here is what I have been running in 13.5 blinky and it seems to be pretty fast:

10-deg reactive
Big shim forward (less static caster)
.5 degree camber
.020 front springs
AE black sides, on the outside position
Kyosho 5k tube lube
upper shock position on battery brace, 2mm shim under top shock ball stud
65wt oil, softest center spring (although any of them should work fine)
green rears, tp fronts. blue rears will work well too, but might give a little less steering.
amr-12 body



Don't worry about the rubbing unless it is on the front edge of the chassis. It is pretty normal to see rubbing on the edges and at the back underneath the center pivot.



Are you referring to the little o-ring that goes inside the shock top cap? I believe this o-ring swells a little bit, so the key is to make sure it is fully seated before you place the top cap on and then make sure the shock shaft is perfectly in-line with that o-ring when you assembly everything so that the o-ring isn't nudged out of place. This typically takes me a couple tries to get right, but it should work just fine.
This is similar to the setup I've came up with.

this is for a small tight track with A lot of 180's. And med traction

Stock front springs .20k losi on the king pins
10 deg reative caster
Big caster shim up front, small in the back.
front brace removed
1deg of camber
Crc black's at 42.5 mm
3.5 on ride height
Stock center spring
50 weight oil.... hole drilled in cap, zero rebound
Stock piston
Up top on the front shock mount
3mm on rear shock mount
Silver ae side springs in the inside. Half a round after touching
30k losi oil in the damper tubes.
3.5 mm of height at the front of the pod under the link screws
.75 of drop on the pod
Crc gray- low rear tires at 42.5 mm
3.5mm of ride height under rear axle
Full tires sauce front and rear
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:15 AM   #362
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I'm still getting oil past the oring on the shaft. Maybe the.oring isn't compressed between the parts properly nit sure.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:35 AM   #363
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I'm still getting oil past the oring on the shaft. Maybe the.oring isn't compressed between the parts properly nit sure.
It does work but I'd have to refill it every race day.
Went up to 50wt 2 holes. Actually feels like a damper now ha.
30k sides up from 20. The usual 10degree front end but took half mil out from upper arm length and added 0.8 to upper kingpin shims.
The car was very responsive on corner entry. Almost too much that I'd smack the apex a lot lol. I like a responsive car but paired with incorrect rollout ect I was going too slow and just biting in the front too much.
Ill see how it goes on Saturday. Corrected a few setup issues and painting up a new body. Only doing 13.5 til I figure the car out some.
Your experiences might differ, but I found that with the tolerances of the side tubes on this car (which I actually really like) that running much thinner tube lube helped calm the car down a lot. This is why I have been running Kyosho 5k instead of the typical 15k. Food for thought, if nothing else.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:01 AM   #364
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This is my first tube car ha. Coming from 12r5.1 lipo monoshock. Ran 25-35wts in that.
20k seems similar but I'll def try.lighter.
I have some 3k diflub and crc 10k tubelube I can frankenstein together to try out.
Much nicer changing damper tubes but wasteful.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:08 AM   #365
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The reason I ended up with 30k in the damper tubes, is to take care of my double steering issue.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:12 AM   #366
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The reason I ended up with 30k in the damper tubes, is to take care of my double steering issue.
Yep. Last night was actually the first chance I have had to run this car in higher traction, and with 5k in the tubes I started encountering double-steer issues when also running my normal AE black sides. I ended up going to silver sides to fix the double-steer, but I think I would prefer to go to 15k tube lube and retain the AE black sides.

In short, the thinner tube lube really helps when traction is lower, but you will need to go thicker when traction comes up.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:32 PM   #367
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How close are the AE 20 springs to the medium VBC spring? I was thinking about trying the AE 18. I just need something to base the stock VBC springs off of.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:37 PM   #368
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Greetings everyone!

I got my self the Lightning12 about 2 weeks ago and was impressed by the quality of the build and how well it handles. I do have a small issue though, did anyone encounter any rubbing of the turnbuckle cup on the inner rim of the front wheels?

This happens when the steering is close to full lock. My steering endpoint is currently set at 70 both sides on the S9650 servo. Wheels are RB Speedlines.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Last edited by Nanoframe; 01-30-2014 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:59 PM   #369
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I'm running Gravity tires and seem to have about 2mm clearance lock to lock, same servo.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:19 PM   #370
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I'm running Gravity tires and seem to have about 2mm clearance lock to lock, same servo.
That's strange, maybe something went wrong during the build. The car was built according to the kit instructions though.

I have a set of CRC and JFT tires coming in to compare and see if they have the same problem.

Thanks!

Last edited by Nanoframe; 01-30-2014 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:24 PM   #371
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Originally Posted by Nanoframe View Post
That's strange, maybe I got something went wrong during the build. The car was built according to the kit instructions though.

I have a set of CRC and JFT tires coming in to compare and see if they have the same problem.

Thanks!
Look over the front end THOROUGHLY bro. The answer is there.
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:26 PM   #372
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Look over the front end THOROUGHLY bro. The answer is there.
I did as you suggested and still can't seem to find the problem. All parts used are the exact same parts installed as specified in the manual.

When checking the front end, I noticed I did make a change to the caster settings. It 's currently set at the maximum caster with all the spacers at the back. Would that cause the wheels to rub?

Thanks again for all the help rendered so far!
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:52 PM   #373
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Mine rubbed, little grinder action cleared it right up, that was with bsr's
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:53 PM   #374
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I did accidentally run a club race with them rubbing though, which explains a few things haha, i just put 2 and 2 together haha
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:45 AM   #375
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Mine rubbed, little grinder action cleared it right up, that was with bsr's
Do pardon my ignorance, when you meant grinder action, did you do that to the turnbuckle itself or the wheel? I noticed the rubbing along the length of the turnbuckle rather than the cup itself.

Thanks!
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