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Old 12-10-2013, 01:43 PM   #271
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Default Inexpensive replacement turnbuckles

I was lucky enough to find at my local hobby shop today - OFNA part #37210 turnbuckle, 3x15mm, 2pcs. - $2.95. Perfect fit. Very cheap and yet super nice direct replacement parts for the vulnerable aluminum front upper arm turnbuckles.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:38 PM   #272
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in the process of building. Just about done after starting the build this morning. I finally got around to measuring the arms and they are off. I guess the friday shake down isnt happening. i'll send an email to vbc but i know i wont have the arms in time for friday.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:50 PM   #273
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If someone has a set of AE lower arms and p.balls, use them. They match up perfectly buddy.
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Old 12-11-2013, 03:58 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
If someone has a set of AE lower arms and p.balls, use them. They match up perfectly buddy.
it's Top land in my area and the track (horsham) doesnt have a hobby shop. Hopefully Kevin Hebert can spare some parts for me. I also dont have time to get to hobby shop before i leave on friday morning to the race down at horsham. I guess i'll stick to TC and F1 this weekend. I was hoping the issue was resolved by now but i guess not. There is another one in the shop i'll ask the shop owner to reach out to vbc and maybe get proactive on this stuff. Would make sense for VBC to just include another set of arms.

Does anyone know what the actual issue is with the arms? is it the molding process?

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Old 12-11-2013, 05:53 PM   #275
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it's Top land in my area and the track (horsham) doesnt have a hobby shop. Hopefully Kevin Hebert can spare some parts for me. I also dont have time to get to hobby shop before i leave on friday morning to the race down at horsham. I guess i'll stick to TC and F1 this weekend. I was hoping the issue was resolved by now but i guess not. There is another one in the shop i'll ask the shop owner to reach out to vbc and maybe get proactive on this stuff. Would make sense for VBC to just include another set of arms.

Does anyone know what the actual issue is with the arms? is it the molding process?

With some patience and a steady hand, i was able to get my kit's faulty arms to match up so that I'd have a pair of usable spares. The problem seems to be that the mating surface where the plastic arms attach to the aluminum bulkheads are not quite square. I used my stiff carbide coated file that is typically used for dressing the edges of freshly trued tires to gently file the plastic mating surfaces on the front arms until the outer ends of both arms was exactly the same height from the setup board when fitted to the car. It's a tedious and time consuming trial and error task, but it did work. The same effect could probably be achieved by adding very thin shim stock (maybe using a layer or 2 of scotch tape as a self stick shim) to the top half of the mating surface on the high arm and to the bottom half on the mating surface on the low arm until their outer ends measure the same distance side to side. That should work and allow you to complete and run the car until such time as you can obtain a pair of nice new matching arms. Thankfully the spare replacement arms that I purchased along with my kit fit and measured perfectly side to side without needing any such fiddling.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:04 PM   #276
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Default Front A-arm issues

Wanted to let everyone know that if you measure the A-arms and they are different and you are not able to get the new A arms yet, that you can still run the car. I ran the car at the U.S Indoor Champs with the a-arm problem and was able to get the ride height the same side to side just by adding shims under the aluminum mount that the a-arm mounts to. I used front shims made by CRC calandra racing concepts for the Associated 12R5 and just put a shim under the a-arm until i got the a-arms even both sides. I ran the car all weekend at the indoor champs this way and did not have any issues with the car not being level or making ride height for the race. so if you are not able to get the a arms from VBC that are corrected and you still want to run the car, all you have to do is make a shim or add shims to the a arms to get them to the correct ride height side to side so that the car sits level.

Hope this tip helps some people that can not get the a arms yet and want to run the car

Robert
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:17 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by Jerry P View Post
it's Top land in my area and the track (horsham) doesnt have a hobby shop. Hopefully Kevin Hebert can spare some parts for me. I also dont have time to get to hobby shop before i leave on friday morning to the race down at horsham. I guess i'll stick to TC and F1 this weekend. I was hoping the issue was resolved by now but i guess not. There is another one in the shop i'll ask the shop owner to reach out to vbc and maybe get proactive on this stuff. Would make sense for VBC to just include another set of arms.

Does anyone know what the actual issue is with the arms? is it the molding process?

I bet if you follow this link, order the arms tonight, and have them shipped to your hotel you'll have them in time...

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...m%2C-V2/Detail


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Old 12-11-2013, 07:32 PM   #278
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I bet if you follow this link, order the arms tonight, and have them shipped to your hotel you'll have them in time...

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...m%2C-V2/Detail


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Thanks man. I can get them from lots of places but have to pay 10 bucks shipping for a 3 dollar item. I'll just hold out and borrow a top car instead if I really want to run. Lots of great tips out there and I appreciate it. Just getting to the point where the manufacturer should be resolving these issues instead of the consumer needing so many work arounds. I feel worse for my local hobby shop that just opened an account and is now carrying vbc. He may have a 1/12 scale with the same issues and the person that buys it my not be patient when he/she has the issue.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:36 PM   #279
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Yo Jerry'

I got arms. I'll be up this friday at Horsham.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry P View Post
Thanks man. I can get them from lots of places but have to pay 10 bucks shipping for a 3 dollar item. I'll just hold out and borrow a top car instead if I really want to run. Lots of great tips out there and I appreciate it. Just getting to the point where the manufacturer should be resolving these issues instead of the consumer needing so many work arounds. I feel worse for my local hobby shop that just opened an account and is now carrying vbc. He may have a 1/12 scale with the same issues and the person that buys it my not be patient when he/she has the issue.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:25 AM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry P View Post
Thanks man. I can get them from lots of places but have to pay 10 bucks shipping for a 3 dollar item. I'll just hold out and borrow a top car instead if I really want to run. Lots of great tips out there and I appreciate it. Just getting to the point where the manufacturer should be resolving these issues instead of the consumer needing so many work arounds. I feel worse for my local hobby shop that just opened an account and is now carrying vbc. He may have a 1/12 scale with the same issues and the person that buys it my not be patient when he/she has the issue.
Sure, I understand. Just for arguments sake in case you REALLY needed them I linked to LPH because the shipping on a part like that is usually 2.99, but again I totally understand where you're coming from.
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:47 AM   #281
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Originally Posted by mike ivy View Post
Yo Jerry'

I got arms. I'll be up this friday at Horsham.
Thanks man i need the ball that goes in the arm too.

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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Sure, I understand. Just for arguments sake in case you REALLY needed them I linked to LPH because the shipping on a part like that is usually 2.99, but again I totally understand where you're coming from.
I use to buy offroad stuff from them but i need them for Friday morning.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:22 AM   #282
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Please note that according to VBC and APS Racing, any lower arms packaged as spares should not have the issue with ride height. As such, if you either have some of these spares or can acquire some, please try swapping them with the kit-included lower arms to see if it resolves the issue.

Also, as mentioned many times in this thread, if you encounter the issue with lower arms and are in North America, please contact Annie Yu at APS Racing, anniey(at)aps-racing(dot)net, to obtain a replacement set. Both VBC and APS are working to resolve this issue, and Annie will take care of you in the meantime.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #283
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Annie was very fast at getting new set of arms sent to me. I just used shims to set ride hight for the run at minnreg Chris qualified sixth for frist time every running a 1/12 scale & with no real practice time Lost a body clip in the A main and still came in 7 should be good to go for club race this weekend
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #284
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Please note that according to VBC and APS Racing, any lower arms packaged as spares should not have the issue with ride height. As such, if you either have some of these spares or can acquire some, please try swapping them with the kit-included lower arms to see if it resolves the issue.

Also, as mentioned many times in this thread, if you encounter the issue with lower arms and are in North America, please contact Annie Yu at APS Racing, anniey(at)aps-racing(dot)net, to obtain a replacement set. Both VBC and APS are working to resolve this issue, and Annie will take care of you in the meantime.
I emailed her last night but haven't heard back yet. I have a buddy that will hook me up with associated arms on Friday.
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:09 PM   #285
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Are people using the inner or outer spring position?

When I was building I tried the outer, but the height of the rear stand-offs wouldn't allow the spring without having excessive pre-load. Are you using an extra set of the front stand-offs or what?
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